N/S Drive shaft replacement

Hi folks, the FNS CV joint on my freelander has developed a rumbling nosie when turning right on full lock, so it seems the cv joint is on its way out, been advised to change the whole drive shaft instead of just the cv joint has it makes the job a lot easier, can people in the know kindly give me any advice on replacing one? Because I'm getting a bit sick of garages having my eyes out.

Many thanks.

The shaft is different between engine/ gearbox types so make sure you get the correct shaft. Some say that cheap after market shafts cause vibration. The few cheap shafts i'v fitted have been ok though.
Doing the job is easy enough. A Haynes manual will give you all the advice you need. It's a relatively straightforward job that shouldn't take more than an hour or so, providing all the bolts come out.
You will need a 32mm socket and long breaker bar to release the drive shaft nut. Otherwise normal tools are required.

Edit: Before you start stripping the suspension, ensure that the gearbox filler plug comes out as you will loose most of the gearbox oil pulling the old shaft out.

Taken from Rimmers site...

LR driveshaft £600
OEM driveshaft £250
Aftermarket driveshaft £60

LR outer CV £220
OEM outer CV £120
Aftermarket outer CV £20.

So 'LR' products are out!

If its when you're turning I suppose it is the outer CV that's going - but I'm sure the inner ones go as well and they don't appear to be sold - so if you replaced your outer CV and then the inner one went - you'd have to get a complete driveshaft anyway.

I'd be tempted to get an aftermarket driveshaft. If it went after 6 months, I'd curse and get an OEM one or take a trip to the breakers!

Nodge68 said:

You will need a 32mm socket and long breaker bar to release the drive shaft nut.

Click to expand...

The 32mm socket will come in handy for doing the 1 wheel up test to check your VCU

Yes there are some horror stories getting those bolts to move - so don't be suprised if you have to use an immense effort to shift it!

Hi nodge many thanks for the advice, just one on the gear box plug where does one fill it up from once the gearbox has been drained?

Sorry again chaps just a quick one is it defo a 32mm socket to remove the hub bolt? I googled this earlier and it came up saying I needed a 52mm

GrumpyGel said:

Taken from Rimmers site...

LR driveshaft £600
OEM driveshaft £250
Aftermarket driveshaft £60

LR outer CV £220
OEM outer CV £120
Aftermarket outer CV £20.

So 'LR' products are out!

If its when you're turning I suppose it is the outer CV that's going - but I'm sure the inner ones go as well and they don't appear to be sold - so if you replaced your outer CV and then the inner one went - you'd have to get a complete driveshaft anyway.

I'd be tempted to get an aftermarket driveshaft. If it went after 6 months, I'd curse and get an OEM one or take a trip to the breakers!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info I brought a compleat drive shaft off eBay for £36 brand new with a 2 year warranty. So fingers crossed it don't let me down.

Ive fitted the new ones at £36 only done around 1000 mile but they seem good to me you should be ok.

Although the old nut is 32mm the new one is larger. Around 36mm can't remember rightly but it is bigger