Safari 5000 Driving Lamps Wiring Diagram

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TwelveSticks

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Dublin, Ireland
My reccently acquired Disco 2 has Safari 5000 driving lamps fitted (to one of those small chrome bars attached atop the front bumper). There's a proper light switch (one with a light symbol and a little "2" on it) fitted on the instrument cluster below the fog light switches, but the driving lights don't work. This is hardly surprising, since on closer inspection, one of them has a hole in the lens!

However, before I rush out and buy a replacement lens (or even a whole new light unit), it'd be nice to check that the rest of the installation works. But to do that, I could do with the wiring/installation instructions so that I can check the fuse etc. (and just to make my life easier!).

Would anyone have the installation instructions for this that they could post please? I'm assuming that the lamps came with a kit/loom and instructions for how to connect them to the instrument cluster and the fusebox (or wherever the power is tapped from).

Thanks in advance...
 
i doubt whether they are factory fitted so a wiring diagram will be useless
have a search on ere for wiring diagrams theres loads
use a simple test lead using a 12v bulb and see if u have power to the lights if not a fuse may have gone or a relay is knackerd,finding someone else"s wiring tho can prove interesting
 
Further investigation just now has revealed that there is a small, black, plastic box and 'piggyback' fuse (which was not blown) attached to the back of the fuse box in the engine compartment. This seems to be to do with the driving lights, and a thread I read on another forum suggests that this is part of the factory fitted kit (whether originally fitted or not). So I have hopes that the wiring may at least be "to code". Be nice to see where the wires are supposed to run / be earthed etc. though...
 
I'm beginning to make a habit of answering my own questions on here, so for the benefit of future searchers, here's what I've just found:

The wiring is indeed the official Land Rover kit - it's called the Auxiliary Wiring Kit, and there is a copy of the fitting instructions included on the Rave CD (aflt020e.pdf) :D

Now I just need to work out why the lamps aren't actually working...
 
I'm beginning to make a habit of answering my own questions on here, so for the benefit of future searchers, here's what I've just found:

The wiring is indeed the official Land Rover kit - it's called the Auxiliary Wiring Kit, and there is a copy of the fitting instructions included on the Rave CD (aflt020e.pdf) :D

Now I just need to work out why the lamps aren't actually working...


Check that you are getting a live at the driving lamps.

They can be unplugged from the driving lights harness, behind the front grille - the live wire is Blue with a White trace.

Your problem is almost certainly failure of the 'Control Unit' on the back of the underbonnet fuse box.

This unit is notoriously unreliable, and expensive to replace :(

It's part number - VUB501690

Britcar (UK) Ltd > VUB501690 DRIVING LAMP CONTROL UNIT DISCO11 (G)

VUB501690.jpg



See also - http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/help-info-wanted-about-front-spotlights-199785.html

I would recommend changing it for a relay, it's cheaper and more reliable.

You do have to change the switch body for a latching live-switching switch, but for this, you can use a Defender Puma Heated Seat Switch (YUF500150LNF), which is only a fiver :D

The Driving Lights Switch's 'Aux 2' front can be easily swapped to the Puma switch body.

If you want to change to a relay, you might find this useful -

Wire Colour Codes

B = Black . G = Green . O= Orange . R = Red . U = Blue . W = White . Y = Yellow


BEFORE

DII-Driving-Lights-Kit.jpg




AFTER

DII-Driving-Lights-Kit-Modified-with-Relay-Latching-Switch.jpg




DETAILS

We'll start at the 10-way connector at the 'Control Unit'

Top row -

DSC03561b.jpg



Cut R1 - connect it to terminal 30 of your relay

Cut B2 - connect it to terminal 85 of your relay

Cut UY1 - we'll deal with this wire soon...

Cut B1 and B3 - crimp them together in an M6 eyelet and take them to the earth point C0557/C0709/C0807 on the inner wing -

C0557-C0709-C0807-D2-Earth.jpg



The mounting bracket that the fuse holder clips to, can be removed from the 'Control Unit' body and mounted elsewhere.

It's held on by a small countersunk screw.

DSC02094a.jpg




Bottom Row -

(ignore the fact that I've already cut the White/Green and Blue/Orange wires)

DSC03559b.jpg



Cut R2 and UO - join them together (solder and sleeve, or splice joint)

Cut U - connect it to terminal 86 of your relay

Cut UY2 - connect it, with UY1 from the top row, to terminal 87 of your relay

Cut WG - NOT NEEDED - remove it back to it's 'tap-off' under the engine compartment fusebox, in a 'reverse' of the installation procedure, below -

D2-Auxiliary-Wiring-Kit.jpg



Alternatively, you can just trace the White/Green wire WG from the 10-way connector, back to where it emerges from the underbonnet fuse box Brown 3-way connector C0572-1, cut it and tape-up the bare end.

Make sure that you don't cut the other WG wire from the same terminal (C0572-1), which goes to the inline White/Translucent cylinderical connector, as this powers a large number of ignition-switched circuits from the under-dash fuse box.


Changing the switch wiring to suit a PUMA Heated Seat Latching On/Off Switch (YUF500150LNF)

At the Black switch connector -

DSC03562b.jpg



Open the hinged terminal lock and, using a safety pin from the front of the connector -

Release the Blue wire from cavity 5 and the Black wire from cavity 4

Swap their positions, so that the Blue wire is now in cavity 4 and the Black wire is now in Cavity 5

Close hinged terminal lock

Job done
icon-thumbup.gif



Here are some pictures that show how to open a 5-way switch connector and release the terminals.

These are from my 'Fuel Flap Relocation Harness' Installation Instructions, so show a Blue connector, but the procedure is the same for all colours of these switch connectors -

Use a small screwdriver to open the hinged terminal lock, 1st side -

Fuel_Flap_Loom_006.jpg



And on the 2nd side -

Fuel_Flap_Loom_007.jpg



Hinged terminal lock opened -

Fuel_Flap_Loom_008.jpg



Use a safety pin to lift the locking tab above the wire's terminal -

Fuel_Flap_Loom_009.jpg



At the same time as lifting the locking tab, pull gently on the wire

Fuel_Flap_Loom_010.jpg



Terminal released from connector housing -

Fuel_Flap_Loom_011.jpg


.
 
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Wow!:)

That is possibly the most comprehensive and most useful reply I've ever had to a question on a forum! :clap2:

Thanks for taking the time to provide such a great piece of advice Paul!
 
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Wow!:)

That is possibly the most comprehensive and most useful reply I've ever had to a question on a forum! :clap2:

Thanks for taking the time to provide such a great piece of advice Paul!


That is how to answer a question PaulMc, I'm impressed!



It was a post that I'd made in the 'How To' section of the D2BC Forum

I just copied and pasted the post over here and adjusted the formatting to suit this forum.

.
 
Hi,

I agree with the others that have posted here that this is really detailed and to this end its my next project too!

A few questions though. My landy isn't factory wired with the aux lighting control. Can I follow the above instructions and those on discovery2.co.uk? (Ie wire in a relay to the lamps / a latching switch). The other biggy, how /where do I get cables through the bulkhead? Is there an easy solution?

What's driving the project is the broken front bumper. Discovered they are £400 to replace. I have this theory a rubber a bar and some spots will hide my sins (I've broken this bit that holds the licence plate between the fogs only).
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread but is there a way to open the pictures now that photobucket is messed up? Thanks Joe
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread but is there a way to open the pictures now that photobucket is messed up? Thanks Joe


Hi Joe,

As soon as I get time (this weekend, hopefully), I'll upload the pictures to one of my other photo hosting accounts (not Photobucket :mad: ) and edit my post to point at their new locations.

Paul.
 
Who can tell me if that is the correct wiring diagram for the heated seat switch YUF500150LNF to led bar?

I made a new diagram because the links are dead because of other policy of photobucket... :-(

It should be good that the correct diagram is shown again in this interesting topic!
 

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Sorry to bring up an old thread but is there a way to open the pictures now that photobucket is messed up? Thanks Joe

Hi Joe,

As soon as I get time (this weekend, hopefully), I'll upload the pictures to one of my other photo hosting accounts (not Photobucket :mad: ) and edit my post to point at their new locations.

Paul.



It's taken me a little longer than I hoped for :oops: - but, the images have now been hosted elsewhere, and the post edited.

1-picture9.gif
PhotoBucket

.
 
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Thanks for this, sadly I had already bought D2 Fog lamp switches plus Blue and Green plug kits for my LED Light Bar and Rear Work Light, before I realised they are not suitable as they don't latch :rolleyes:

I have now ordered the correct Puma Defender Switches with Black Plug kits ............. Ho Hum :D:D:D
 
I have the same problem as the (old) original post but could someone tell me if this relay , see pics, will be ok to use to bypass the faulty control box please, many thanks.
20210927_184503.jpg
20210927_184524.jpg
 
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