Year 2000 Discovery 2 V8 cut out, now no start help?

Hi all,

Driving my Discovery home the other day and on a R/H sharp bend it just cut out, steering went heavy just as you would expect....ignition light still on dash but no other warning lights.
After several attempts to start I managed to get it going after 10 minutes of just spinning over, locking unlocking etc.
I locked it and unlocked it, left the key in and it started again.
Drove it home (2 miles) and turned it off, it re started instantly.
Pulled 2 codes from it:
P0560 Battery Voltage Below Minimum Fault - Possibly from all the cranking?
P01668 Anti-Theft Alarm serial link fault Drive cycle Signal out of range - above maximum
Cleared the codes and started it again...no problems.
Came out to it the next day and nothing, just spins over.
The key fob locks and unlocks the doors fine, put the key in the ignition and turn it to start and the immobilizer light goes out.
I have put another battery in the fob (of which I was sure was flat) and when trying this the immobilizer light stays on.
I am thinking that the first battery is fine so put that back in.
Further investigation shows no spark at the plugs?
I will try and get the EKA code today to see if that works but have a feeling it wont.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is our only family car and I have to walk miles to work and back each day.
Kindest Regards Steve

I have managed to get the EKA code and entered it, so have now been able to bypass the immobilizer however still no start just spins over.
Any ideas?

Might be a problem with the passive immobiliser, could be the remobilisation exciter coil(around the key barrel) or the fob's transponder, if you have access to dedicated tester go into BCU settings and disable the passive immobiliser and if it's OK after that then here's the problem somewhere, EKA will not help as your problem is not with the alarm/main immobiliser or fob as it locks/unlocks well also the main immobiliser which is disabled by EKA won't let it crank at all if it was the issue

check connector 0049(attached) to make good contact also measure earth's(black wire) resistance against body, if it's above 1 Ohm splice in it with a good earth from somewhere, also open the fob and see if the pointed chip is not loosened or has a dry joint

Back to basics.
Have you got 12 volts at the coil?

Many thanks I will check that.
I was wondering after walking away from the car if the inertia switch could have tripped?
Cant check now until I get home at 5pm.

MGBGTV8 said:

Back to basics.
Have you got 12 volts at the coil?

Click to expand...

Will check that as soon as I get home.
I was sure it was immobilzer related so have not dug too far yet.
Thanks

the inertia switch would have unlocked all doors and on factory setting the hazards should be on...but worth a check anyway

sierrafery said:

the inertia switch would have unlocked all doors and on factory setting the hazards should be on...but worth a check anyway

Click to expand...

Many thanks

sierrafery said:

the inertia switch would have unlocked all doors and on factory setting the hazards should be on...but worth a check anyway

Click to expand...

Many thanks.
Would the car just die whilst driving if the passive immobiliser lost the key signal?

that's a good question, never thought about that ... that's quite unlikely though but what you described with the locking/unlocking then red led on the dash with no sparks though crankig made the passive immobiliser to be suspect... maybe there are two separate issues

rule out the main relay, swap R9(main) with R8(heated screen) for test

sierrafery said:

that's a good question, never thought about that ... that's quite unlikely though but what you described with the locking/unlocking then red led on the dash with no sparks though crankig made the passive immobiliser to be suspect... maybe there are two separate issues

rule out the main relay, swap R9(main) with R8(heated screen) for test

Click to expand...

Is the R9 / R8 Relay in the fuse box under the bonnet or in the drivers side compartment?
Thanks again, any help is greatly appreciated.

engine bay fusebox

I was wondering about the possibility of it been the crank sensor but thought that it would have shown a code.

Ok so have just tried resetting the inertia switch and nothing still no start.
Also swapped over the relays and again nothing.

take a multimeter and measure voltage on the battery while cranking, if it drops below 10V this might be a trouble cos the management needs above 10V to work, the fact that it's cranking well doesnt mean the battery is strong enough

sierrafery said:

take a multimeter and measure voltage on the battery while cranking, if it drops below 10V this might be a trouble cos the management needs above 10V to work, the fact that it's cranking well doesnt mean the battery is strong enough

Click to expand...

Checked battery while cranking and its fine.

Just had a local Land Rover specialist come out and turn off the immobilizer system inc the passive key part.
Still nothing, no spark just spins over, its now looking like its going to get expensive!

, unfortunately in this case my knowledge has ended, i can think only to ECU or BCU failure... or some strange wiring issue

So the Specialist rang this morning with an update, still not running.
He says that there is no fuel pressure or spark so looks like the ecu is telling it not to start.
All the anti theft system is now disabled still nothing.
Will keep the thread posted.

Coil pack Type? Or dizzy

If dizzy check earth trigger from coil and suspect ignition amp

If coil pack type faulty crank sensor possibly