X-eng pedal lock
- Thread starter craigyb
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LeadFarmer
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Looks great Craig. How long did it take to fit? And does it rattle at all when driving? I guess you could place some rubber matting underneath it if so?
I guess like anything its only as strong as its weakest point? Hopefully the hinge rod cant be easily tapped out.
Im seriously considering one to replace my Adrenalin pedal lock which is great, but cumbersome. The X-eng is a very neat solution.
I guess like anything its only as strong as its weakest point? Hopefully the hinge rod cant be easily tapped out.
Im seriously considering one to replace my Adrenalin pedal lock which is great, but cumbersome. The X-eng is a very neat solution.
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lanny man 90
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Am guessing them Alan-keys in the floor pan have nuts underneath the landy
Took me 20 mins to fit. There's that many rattles in my 90 I can't tell
can't get to the bottom hinge pin and top would be hard to get out. Lock seems decent enough.Yes the do... Shear nuts
lanny man 90
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LeadFarmer
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Took me 20 mins to fit. There's that many rattles in my 90 I can't tell
Thanks Craig, its on my xmas list
Litch
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Got one and not living with it very well.
Fitting was a pain as I had to overcome an issue with the spring in the lock mechanism, the following week Simon rushed out a modified part as others had complained about the same thing.
Is ok to use, no key required to lock it and just a turn of the key to unlock it (same as my old Clutch Claw) but I still can't get used to feeling the hinge under my feet. When locked it is about as secure as anything can be, it covers all the pedals but is no easier to use and at least with the CC removed the floor is clear.
There are no rattles to worry about as your feet rest on the main section and the top part which contains the lock is held in position when not in use by a turn-buckle.
Not too keen on the shear-nuts underneath mainly due to the fact that I am taking the floor up next year to have the bulkhead galvanised, I prefer to use a single length of bar which is drilled to match the pedal lock fixings and then tapped so the bolts can be screwed in from the vehicle interior. The bolts can't be accessed from the interior with the lock in position and being a single piece of steel you can't unscrew it from the underside.
Fitting was a pain as I had to overcome an issue with the spring in the lock mechanism, the following week Simon rushed out a modified part as others had complained about the same thing.
Is ok to use, no key required to lock it and just a turn of the key to unlock it (same as my old Clutch Claw) but I still can't get used to feeling the hinge under my feet. When locked it is about as secure as anything can be, it covers all the pedals but is no easier to use and at least with the CC removed the floor is clear.
There are no rattles to worry about as your feet rest on the main section and the top part which contains the lock is held in position when not in use by a turn-buckle.
Not too keen on the shear-nuts underneath mainly due to the fact that I am taking the floor up next year to have the bulkhead galvanised, I prefer to use a single length of bar which is drilled to match the pedal lock fixings and then tapped so the bolts can be screwed in from the vehicle interior. The bolts can't be accessed from the interior with the lock in position and being a single piece of steel you can't unscrew it from the underside.
Only got 6 bolts to fix in so no reason for it to be a pain. You must have very small feet for them to sit on the hinge, or you haven't fitted it properly
why hey are shear nuts for a reason.... So some little fecker can't get it off in a hurry!
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im thinking of fitting one to mine when i can, now ive invested some more money in it, i dont want to make it easy for thieves.
youve just made up my mind.
Thanks
youve just made up my mind.
Thanks
Litch
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"Only got 6 bolts to fix in so no reason for it to be a pain. You must have very small feet for them to sit on the hinge, or you haven't fitted it properly why hey are shear nuts for a reason.... So some little fecker can't get it off in a hurry!"
Read again.
I said that fitting was a pain because the lock mechanism wouldn't work correctly until modified and since then Simon has sent out a modified part to anyone who bought the earlier locks because several people had the same problem.
The unit only fits on one position so I think it unlikely that I it isn't fitted properly. Too far forward and it fouls the pedals when up and too far to the rear and it won't lie flat when unlocked so I think we can safely assume that isn't the problem. The issue is that where there was an otherwise flat floor there is now the main hinge which sits higher and can therefore be felt through the soles of my shoes, boots, wellies, ballerina pumps or whatever!
Shear nuts are indeed there for a reason but as I want to remove the lock in a few months time I felt that using them may hinder removal whereas a single bar is just as effective (moreso perhaps?) but allows the unit to be removed when unlocked.
Read again.
I said that fitting was a pain because the lock mechanism wouldn't work correctly until modified and since then Simon has sent out a modified part to anyone who bought the earlier locks because several people had the same problem.
The unit only fits on one position so I think it unlikely that I it isn't fitted properly. Too far forward and it fouls the pedals when up and too far to the rear and it won't lie flat when unlocked so I think we can safely assume that isn't the problem. The issue is that where there was an otherwise flat floor there is now the main hinge which sits higher and can therefore be felt through the soles of my shoes, boots, wellies, ballerina pumps or whatever!
Shear nuts are indeed there for a reason but as I want to remove the lock in a few months time I felt that using them may hinder removal whereas a single bar is just as effective (moreso perhaps?) but allows the unit to be removed when unlocked.
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LeadFarmer
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What do you mean by a single bar Litch? Only I might be buying one of these.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Litch
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"What do you mean by a single bar Litch? Only I might be buying one of these."
The pedal lock is bolted to the floor using a series of six bolts with shear-nuts (supplied) fitted to the underside to prevent anyone simply unbolting it.
My issue is that come next spring I will be removing the pedal-lock (along with the rest of the floor, bulkhead etc) and rather than struggling with shear-nuts in a somewhat restricted space I decided on another course of action. I used a section of rectangular steel bar drilled & tapped to match the holes in the pedal-lock. The fixing screws screw into this from inside the cab but as it is held into place by more than one fixing it can't be unscrewed from the underside and with the lock in position you can't get access to the fixing screws from the inside so in my opinion it is more effective than using shear-nuts yet allows easy removal for maintenance.
Nothing wrong with shear-nuts but if you think you may want to undo them in the future (gearbox and/or clutch repalcement?) then think before using them as what may take minutes to fit could be really awkward to remove in the future.
The pedal lock is bolted to the floor using a series of six bolts with shear-nuts (supplied) fitted to the underside to prevent anyone simply unbolting it.
My issue is that come next spring I will be removing the pedal-lock (along with the rest of the floor, bulkhead etc) and rather than struggling with shear-nuts in a somewhat restricted space I decided on another course of action. I used a section of rectangular steel bar drilled & tapped to match the holes in the pedal-lock. The fixing screws screw into this from inside the cab but as it is held into place by more than one fixing it can't be unscrewed from the underside and with the lock in position you can't get access to the fixing screws from the inside so in my opinion it is more effective than using shear-nuts yet allows easy removal for maintenance.
Nothing wrong with shear-nuts but if you think you may want to undo them in the future (gearbox and/or clutch repalcement?) then think before using them as what may take minutes to fit could be really awkward to remove in the future.
With all the floorpan fasteners removed and the lock folded flat will in not just pull out as one with the floorpan?
Litch
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More than likey, there might be a little jiggling around required but I am sure it would.
The issue is that I would rather just take the thing off and be done with it. To remove the floor screws you will need the lock up to get to some and down for the others whereas by simply removing the six fixing screws it can be removed completely and is no-longer part of the equation. Same goes for refitting, easier to fit just the floor and then bolt the lock back into position when all is finished as with all the seatbox, floor & bulkhead reassembly going on I don't really want the lock there, folded flat or not.
The issue is that I would rather just take the thing off and be done with it. To remove the floor screws you will need the lock up to get to some and down for the others whereas by simply removing the six fixing screws it can be removed completely and is no-longer part of the equation. Same goes for refitting, easier to fit just the floor and then bolt the lock back into position when all is finished as with all the seatbox, floor & bulkhead reassembly going on I don't really want the lock there, folded flat or not.
How about you stick some rubber matting down either side of the hinge to level things up?
I'm struggling to find a reason not to buy one... not much more £££ than a discloc and seemingly much more convenient with minimal downsides.
