P38A Worrying whine from front end -road speed related

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dubbleRR said:
Hate to say it ,but that input shaft looks nasty to say the least .even with the prop off it might try to spit it out ,and any oil thats left in it :eek::eek:
Click to expand...

yes, it’s not nice and is making a grizzly noise.


Thankfully the garage is only a mile or so away so hopefully I can get there without too much drama.
 
Failed pinion bearing, mine is going the same way, I like to wait until the prop beats its way in to the cabin before I fix it though.

Love a challenge me. :D

Front diff change is relatively simple, but not quite as easy as the rear.. :cool:
 
If you're going to drive it to the garage, might be best to leave the prop in place, could be holding it all together, just a thought but,
with the pinion flapping about, could it jam the diff ?
 
aj1954 said:
If you're going to drive it to the garage, might be best to leave the prop in place, could be holding it all together, just a thought but,
with the pinion flapping about, could it jam the diff ?
Click to expand...

i did wonder about that but it sounds dreadful but I don’t want to cause any more damage to gearbox or cv joints or whatever might be next to fail…
 
Hi Folks,

Just a wee update (and cry for help through gnashing teeth)
managed to source what I was assured was a 'good' transfer box and front diff and dropped them and the beast off at the garage a fortnight ago.

Got her back yesterday, they'd swapped everything over and I asked whether the VC on the replacement box was ok and they said it was.

Went for a short drive and there were a few more whines than I remember and, worryingly, a squeak from the steering.

decided I better check the VC myself, and egress where I need your help to let me know if I've done anything stupid or missed anything.

Put car in neutral, handbrake on, jacked up front o/s wheel as it cleared the ground, it span round. (indication of wind-up ?).
popped a breaker bar on a wheel nut and, other than a bit of 'play' couldn't shift the wheel at all. tried a torque wrench at 130NM -nothing.

does this mean the replacement VC is also f**ked ?

Is there any way to test these things before fitting ?or is the on-car test the only way ?

beginning to wish I'd just paid Ashcroft £700 for a reconditioned box as their VCs are around £300 -unless anyone has a reliable source if good used / recon VCs....

very glum and about a grand out of pocket :(

Thanks again

Bob
 
awkwardbob said:
Hi Folks,

Just a wee update (and cry for help through gnashing teeth)
managed to source what I was assured was a 'good' transfer box and front diff and dropped them and the beast off at the garage a fortnight ago.

Got her back yesterday, they'd swapped everything over and I asked whether the VC on the replacement box was ok and they said it was.

Went for a short drive and there were a few more whines than I remember and, worryingly, a squeak from the steering.

decided I better check the VC myself, and egress where I need your help to let me know if I've done anything stupid or missed anything.

Put car in neutral, handbrake on, jacked up front o/s wheel as it cleared the ground, it span round. (indication of wind-up ?).
popped a breaker bar on a wheel nut and, other than a bit of 'play' couldn't shift the wheel at all. tried a torque wrench at 130NM -nothing.

does this mean the replacement VC is also f**ked ?

Is there any way to test these things before fitting ?or is the on-car test the only way ?

beginning to wish I'd just paid Ashcroft £700 for a reconditioned box as their VCs are around £300 -unless anyone has a reliable source if good used / recon VCs....

very glum and about a grand out of pocket :(

Thanks again

Bob
Click to expand...
It requires a lot of steady pressure to get the wheel to turn and the movement will be very slow. I have no idea what a newton metre is but you need to lean on a 3 foot bar with a lot of pressure to get movement.
What made you decide to change the transfer box? They are very reliable and rarely give trouble.
If the VCU is seized it can cause failure of the front diff but doesn't as far as I'm aware cause any issues with the transfer box.
 
Datatek said:
It requires a lot of steady pressure to get the wheel to turn and the movement will be very slow. I have no idea what a newton metre is but you need to lean on a 3 foot bar with a lot of pressure to get movement.
What made you decide to change the transfer box? They are very reliable and rarely give trouble.
If the VCU is seized it can cause failure of the front diff but doesn't as far as I'm aware cause any issues with the transfer box.
Click to expand...

maybe I need to try again…with sustained pressure on the bar for a period of time.

130NM is approx 95 lbft of torque.

I left the descision on the box / VC up to
The garage and said if the old box was ok, just do the VC but they did the whole box.

I suppose I was just a wee bit worried as it had destroyed both the rear and front diffs.

Ashcroft seem to list. A bench test before fitting the VC so you can tell
Whether it’s good or not before spending 4+ hours fitting the damn thing !

will speak to them on Monday
 
awkwardbob said:
maybe I need to try again…with sustained pressure on the bar for a period of time.

130NM is approx 95 lbft of torque.

I left the descision on the box / VC up to
The garage and said if the old box was ok, just do the VC but they did the whole box.

I suppose I was just a wee bit worried as it had destroyed both the rear and front diffs.

Ashcroft seem to list. A bench test before fitting the VC so you can tell
Whether it’s good or not before spending 4+ hours fitting the damn thing !

will speak to them on Monday
Click to expand...
I doubt 95lbft is enough but my torque gauge doesn't go that high, I put a 1/2 inch bar on a socket on the hub nut and add a length of scaffold pole:eek: I check at every service.
The VCU can be checked with the prop off at the flange, takes less effort there.
The garage are skinning you, VCU quick easy job, transfer box change much bigger more profitable job. Hope you got your old transfer box back as there is probably nothing wrong with it.
 
awkwardbob said:
maybe I need to try again…with sustained pressure on the bar for a period of time.

130NM is approx 95 lbft of torque.

I left the descision on the box / VC up to
The garage and said if the old box was ok, just do the VC but they did the whole box.

I suppose I was just a wee bit worried as it had destroyed both the rear and front diffs.

Ashcroft seem to list. A bench test before fitting the VC so you can tell
Whether it’s good or not before spending 4+ hours fitting the damn thing !

will speak to them on Monday
Click to expand...

130nm is way more than should be required. You tease it around ever so slowly. A refurbed one can be turned using the hub-nut using 70nm set on the torque wrench (on my manual box anyway).

If it needs 130nm I'd say it is buggered or bot far off.

And yes, if you check the Ashcroft's website I think it tells you how much you need to test it if direct on the end or off the car. Not a lit but cannot recall the exact number.
 
Grrrrrr said:
130nm is way more than should be required. You tease it around ever so slowly. A refurbed one can be turned using the hub-nut using 70nm set on the torque wrench (on my manual box anyway).

If it needs 130nm I'd say it is buggered or bot far off.

And yes, if you check the Ashcroft's website I think it tells you how much you need to test it if direct on the end or off the car. Not a lit but cannot recall the exact number.
Click to expand...

I was standing on the breaker bar (and I’m not exactly ‘slight’ and I didn’t really detect any movement at all -and was worried about over-tightening the wheel nuts
 
Have asked the garage to check it but I’m pretty certain it’s not right.

the good news is they’ve agreed to fit a replacement FOC.

is Ashcroft the best place to go for a recon or are there any other recommendations ?

thanks again

Bob

(edited for random Boobage)
 
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