won't start :-(

Hello all,

I just came home a recovery truck :-(

I have driven 340 miles to Chelmsford and back home. did well better fuel economy than usual with than locked turbo exit filter removed.

Car stood on the drive for 10 mins.

Went out to the shell garage 5 minutes away, put 30 quids worth of diesel in, car wouldn't start.

Green flag guy checked fuel from pump, removed and cleaned cam sensor, still no go.

It turns over on the starter motor but won't fire. No engine management light.

Its a 2001 td4, auto. Where should I start looking?

Thanks

lock you car and unlock it twice mine did the same thing I was near a police station and the spumatic emissions from the radio system had interfeared with my car I just happened to be unlocking at the time all was well after

my money's on the injectors, leak back test will prove

Its getting recovered to a local specialist that I found. Hopefully they will find the issue once its plugged in.

OK, green flag did not recover it to the garage, they sent out a more advanded machanic than the regular guys.

so far
1. I thank its injectors
2. Green Flag thinks its injectors
3. OP things its injects

We all know that OP is always right (see his forum signature text)

So that makes it injectors then.......

Next question, are the injector really as much of a pain in the ass to remove as people on here say they are? Am i looking at £2,500 to have cam cover broken, the head off and the injector milled out?

When is the situation of the garage break an injector when i asked them to remove it? Is their responsibility to sort out the damage as it happend in their care?

If i could go back in time, I would read this forum before buying a black freebie, i guess i;ve been lucky up to now and have managed to keep the doors dry all this time.........

Looking at the procedure for removing injectors in the aynes manual it shouldn't be that difficult.

What goes wrong, that's not obvious from the manual, to cause a £2,500 bill?

The injector get siezed into the cylinder head,andhave a habit of breaking up.

This means that the cam cover cannot be removed, and has to be broken up (plastic) to get to the head bolts, to remove the head.

The remains of the injector then have to be removed from the cylinder head. In the worse cases it has to be milled out.

The other classic is the injector snapping off and part of it falling into the cylinder. Head has to come off to get the broken bit out.

There are many horror stories on here.

Indeed very many incidents of seized injectors on this engine. Angeloc's recently posted video demonstration of injector removal made me smile. It's not a good idea to use a heel bar on the plastic cam cover, ok for him cos they'd been out previously but don't try and remove a tight one like that.

Nasty

The Haynes doesn't even refer to removing the injectors before taking the cam cover off, that's one of the things that had me confused as to why the big bill.

Another learning day, thank you

there is some one on EBay with a remover tool and they will do it for you

just got quotes for all four injectors changed.

Stealers quoted 1020+vat but might be cheaper if the come out easy (they been in for 6 years or 112k miles, probably longer)

DCV want 820+vat but they said that it might be the fuel rail pressure sensor and that they would check that first.

Optimus Prime said:

my money's on the injectors, leak back test will prove

Click to expand...

Has this been done?

Vertuas said:

just got quotes for all four injectors changed.

Stealers quoted 1020+vat but might be cheaper if the come out easy (they been in for 6 years or 112k miles, probably longer)

DCV want 820+vat but they said that it might be the fuel rail pressure sensor and that they would check that first.

Click to expand...

All 4 failed at the same time, surely the test mentioned above would find out if 1, 2 ,3 or all 4 are gubbed.
Wife's Freelander had the same symptoms and 2 injectors had failed.

Can injectors not be refurbished?

From what I've read on the MG-Rover site they can be refurbishedn but no one has posted a detailed how that I can find.

They have the same problem getting injectors out as Freelander owners (I ran a search to see if I ad two lots of trouble..), the general advice being to spray some PlusGas into the recess every 6 months or so.

Now the sodding thing cut out mid journey........gggrrrrr

biggggeeeeee

No leak back test has been done yet, I'm just about ready to burn the thing!!! Why is it always the gaddam BMW bit that fails, german engineering my arse.

All of the injectors have been in there for the 112k miles i have had the car, and 7 ish years that i have had the car. Rover ron recomends that they are shcnged every 100k miles.

If i'm getting one done I may aswell get the other done. Its a landrover, as soon as one injector is fixed another will fail. Get them all done and its good for another 100k miles

Vertuas said:

Now the sodding thing cut out mid journey........gggrrrrr

Click to expand...

Left it about 90 minutes, walked back to it, sodding thing started first time.

camshaft sensor?

Vertuas said:

Now the sodding thing cut out mid journey........gggrrrrr

Click to expand...

Lp fuel pump/fuel delivery and Hp fuel sensor connection or harness are the most likely things to cause a Td4 to cut out.

the camshaft sensor can cause non start but won't cause cut out once running

Would a knackerd hp sensor cause the rough running 1000 to 2000 rpm?

Where does the sensor and its wiring live?

There is still no MIL on.

I just heard back from DCV.

There is no fault shown on the ECU (they use a Autologic tablet), they drove the car and its fine.

They checked the injectors and they are ok.

They suspect that the fuel rail pressure sensor is the issue and are going to replace this and the wiring loom.

Total cost is £305

Hopefully this will fix it......who knows