wing top air vents - in spain

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robbiemcvee

Active Member
Posts
116
Location
Cambridgeshire
Taking my 90 300tdi to spain this year, i've got a snow vent on at the moment, i've noticed in the summer that i only get hot air through the blower, is changing the air vent going to give me a cold feed or is changing this just going to blow more hot air?

also the other vent - if i remove the blank will this give better air circulation to the engine ?

thanks all...!
 
If the heater controls are working properly and the flap diverting air past the matrix (and not through it) then the air out of the vents will be ambient temperature and not affected by the matrix temperature (apart from perhaps a couple of degrees if the heater box itself is retaining a bit of heat).
Fitting the standard grill is a good idea, I fitted a snow cowl and found that it restricted air-flow considerably so now it lives in the garage and is only fitted if heavy snow is forecast (i.e. not often!).
Leave the blanking cover in place, plenty of air flowing though the engine-bay as long as the grill isn't blanked off.
 
Thanks chap - the snow cowl and some foil over the rad has served me well during the winter - keep me warm and toasty. i have two big spots on the front which may prevent air flow, but i dont think its substantial. i have a standard fan and not considered changing this as i do some wading here in the UK. any tips on how to check the flap diverting?
 
With regards to the heater flaps, the most common problem is that they aren't operating across the full range so while you are happily moving the levers on the dash up / down you are actually only moving the flaps partway (if at all). Usually this is just down to sticky cables / poor adjustment and can be resolved in a matter of minutes.
Easiest way to check is to disconnect the operating cables from the flaps and move the flaps by hand noting the full operating range. That done, re-connect the cables and operate the levers and see if the flaps are moving the same amount, if not adjustment is required. While you are at it make sure that the cable inner moves freely and the outer is firmly clamped as it is very common for them to become seized and move together resulting in no movement at the flaps.

In total you have three lever controls but only two of them connect to the heater itself (the air distribution lever works on flaps in the lower dash).
The cable that is connected to the heater ON / OFF lever (L/H side) operates a flap that closes against the bulkhead. As you operate the lever, the flap opens allowing air through into he lower dash and as the lever gets lower it operates the fan motor (2-speed), If this flap isn't opening fully then air can't get through into the cab whereas on the other hand, if it isn't closing fully then it will allow a through-flow of air even if you have the heater off and don't want air in.
The temperature control lever (RH side) operates the flap that diverts air through or around the matrix. On HOT all air flows through the matrix, on COLD all air is diverted around the matrix and at any point in-between heated air is mixed with un-heated air. Simple but effective.
People have asked in the past where the water mixing valve is located but the simple answer is that there isn't one! The matrix runs at engine coolant temperature all the time and then air into the cab is simply flows through or around it.

The other common problem is damaged seals (age related as the seal material gets hard and crumbles) but to get at those you need to remove & open the heater, no big deal but do the other checks first.

Covering the radiator is only something you need to do if the cooling system isn't working correctly in the first place.
Coolant isn't diverted through the radiator until the engine is up to operating temperature and the thermostat opens. The heater however is in the circuit that receives coolant at jacket temperature. This means that when the engine is warming up the top hose should remain cold while the heater hoses get warm / hot.

Hope that helps understand how it all works.
 
With regards to the heater flaps, the most common problem is that they aren't operating across the full range so while you are happily moving the levers on the dash up / down you are actually only moving the flaps partway (if at all). Usually this is just down to sticky cables / poor adjustment and can be resolved in a matter of minutes.
Easiest way to check is to disconnect the operating cables from the flaps and move the flaps by hand noting the full operating range. That done, re-connect the cables and operate the levers and see if the flaps are moving the same amount, if not adjustment is required. While you are at it make sure that the cable inner moves freely and the outer is firmly clamped as it is very common for them to become seized and move together resulting in no movement at the flaps.

In total you have three lever controls but only two of them connect to the heater itself (the air distribution lever works on flaps in the lower dash).
The cable that is connected to the heater ON / OFF lever (L/H side) operates a flap that closes against the bulkhead. As you operate the lever, the flap opens allowing air through into he lower dash and as the lever gets lower it operates the fan motor (2-speed), If this flap isn't opening fully then air can't get through into the cab whereas on the other hand, if it isn't closing fully then it will allow a through-flow of air even if you have the heater off and don't want air in.
The temperature control lever (RH side) operates the flap that diverts air through or around the matrix. On HOT all air flows through the matrix, on COLD all air is diverted around the matrix and at any point in-between heated air is mixed with un-heated air. Simple but effective.
People have asked in the past where the water mixing valve is located but the simple answer is that there isn't one! The matrix runs at engine coolant temperature all the time and then air into the cab is simply flows through or around it.

The other common problem is damaged seals (age related as the seal material gets hard and crumbles) but to get at those you need to remove & open the heater, no big deal but do the other checks first.

Covering the radiator is only something you need to do if the cooling system isn't working correctly in the first place.
Coolant isn't diverted through the radiator until the engine is up to operating temperature and the thermostat opens. The heater however is in the circuit that receives coolant at jacket temperature. This means that when the engine is warming up the top hose should remain cold while the heater hoses get warm / hot.

Hope that helps understand how it all works.

Do you know of any threads detailing the stripdown and seal inspection/replacements? It’s something I need to do before mine goes back in.
 
Not aware of any threads or photos of the procedure but to be perfectly honest it is very straight forward and if you decide to take it on maybe you could build a step by step guide and post it yourself?

The top of the heater box is held on with pop rivets so as soon as you have drilled these out you expose the matrix and the internal gubbins (there isn't much to see). You will need new seals for the air intake duct and against the bulkhead but everything else can be made up using heat resistant foam-rubber strip (available on-line in various sizes & lengths). The main thing to check inside is that the matrix is well sealed so that when the flap is sending air via the matrix it is passing through and not around the edges. Also check that the matrix is not blocked and / or corroded, if so just buy a replacement (standard ones are not expensive).
You can even take on this job and keep driving the vehicle, just connect the heater pips together to compete the coolant circuit (of course you will have no cab heating when doing this).
 
Not aware of any threads or photos of the procedure but to be perfectly honest it is very straight forward and if you decide to take it on maybe you could build a step by step guide and post it yourself?

The top of the heater box is held on with pop rivets so as soon as you have drilled these out you expose the matrix and the internal gubbins (there isn't much to see). You will need new seals for the air intake duct and against the bulkhead but everything else can be made up using heat resistant foam-rubber strip (available on-line in various sizes & lengths). The main thing to check inside is that the matrix is well sealed so that when the flap is sending air via the matrix it is passing through and not around the edges. Also check that the matrix is not blocked and / or corroded, if so just buy a replacement (standard ones are not expensive).
You can even take on this job and keep driving the vehicle, just connect the heater pips together to compete the coolant circuit (of course you will have no cab heating when doing this).

I will try and remember to take photos when I come to stripping it down. Hopefully I will take enough to make something worthwhile.
 
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