wheel bearing

got a disco 300tdi es and had a wheel bearing collapse on the front offside, it was a sod to get off having welded itself on, anyway i cleaned everything up and replaced the bearing, i've had to retighten it twice now, have i done soething wrong or could it be something else causing it to loosen? cheers.

How did you set the end play?

Should be done up tight, spin wheel to settle bearings, back off a quarter then do up barely hand tight. I always bung the wheel on and test for wobble, should be just a tiny bit of play. Then lock up the lock washer bending one bit back and one bit forwards.

scuse my ignorance but what's endplay?

The correct way to adjust wheel bearings and tighten hub nuts (taken from the Official Land Rover workshop manual for Disco 1) -
Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.

That's what i said

thanks, i'll give it a go after work tomorrow, do you think it would be wise to replace bearing again anyway? it was grumbling a bit coming home with the occasional squeal,

Maybe shaft slight damage stopping inner bearing going fully home, did you fit the washer between the the first nut and the outer bearing?


Lynall

Grumbling and squeal don't sound good from a bearing. Did you replace the bearing races too, these are the steel rings that the bearing runs in, if you only change the bearing itself it won't live long.

yes i fitted the outer races' and i also fitted the washer, i think i'll replace the bearing just to be on the safe side.

I have done 6 bearings on my discos now, and i think i have had to adjust a couple of them a second time, it always seems to be on the axle where i have had to abuse the old stub axles a bit to get the old inner race off, i agree with lynall its probably a bit of damage to the stub axle stopping the inner bearing seating properly the first time.

I just accept that some of them need a bedding in period before they are right, maybe its time to invest in a torque wrench for me.

Dave is right though squeal doesnt sound good, maybe a replacement is in order just to be sure.

unless timken or decent make cheap ones wear incredible quick hence readjustment ,you dont need torque wrench of bearings they are done as they have been forever as i believe already said tightened up to seat bearings ,then backed off and adjusted by hand till freeplay just gone then outer nut locked up tight this gives just the right amount of preload

jamesmartin said:

unless timken or decent make cheap ones wear incredible quick hence readjustment ,you dont need torque wrench of bearings they are done as they have been forever as i believe already said tightened up to seat bearings ,then backed off and adjusted by hand till freeplay just gone then outer nut locked up tight this gives just the right amount of preload

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I only use SKF ones out here as they are easy to get hold of, i thought they were a decent brand, bloody cost enough out here, its scandalous

they are normally or at least where last time i used them ,i can but timken for £5 not bad

Torque wrench is not needed, the bearings run with end-float so will be zero torque or practically, measuring end-float is bloody hard to any accuracy. The hand method and practice works very well, tried and tested. A torque wrench capable of measuring the 4nm (I think that was the setting) is going to be very delicate and very expensive as it is such a low figure.

they dont really want to run with end float ,no taper bearing does ,tighten 2nd nut removes it or should