Wheel bearing or CV joint noises

Recently there has been a growling noise coming from the front n/s wheel, most noticeable on turning left, and the steering feels sloppy on turning left like driving a Series!
I can't hear a clicking noise on turning although there was some clicking initially and I thought CV joint. But there's no jerking on acceleration or any unusual vibrations so makes me think wheel bearing. No obvious noise going straight ahead but turning esp left makes it growl.
I haven't tried jacking the wheel and rocking at 12&3 o/c but I ordered wheel bearing kit just in case as I have a friend with a garage, all the tools and a 4 post lift.
Any thoughts? Thank you.

Yep,check that bearing and the one on other side.

Update:

Had her up on a ramp today and rocking the wheels at 12&6 saw very slight play in o/s wheel ??? top swivel pin ???.
Bearings seem fine and free, no catching, growling or noises, or movement when wheels rocked at 3&9.
Prop shafts seemed ok without any obvious looseness or noises.

The I saw that the boot on the drop arm ball joint had perished and on further inspection the whole thing was rusted and loose with a few cm of play. The bottom cover plate had fallen off too. That would account for the vague steering on cornering. Still unsure as the the knocking sound on turning but that could be the ball joint?

Going to order a kit as I now have access to a garage, tools and a knowledgable person so are there any recommended ones eg. Delphi, blue box, Bearmach.....or should I get a complete arm and risk the problem of the old one being stuck to the shaft of a rather old steering box?

Cheers.

The joint on the arm can be a pain to do itself. If the arm has been off before likely it wont be to hard, plenty of threads on how.

cappers said:

Update:

Had her up on a ramp today and rocking the wheels at 12&6 saw very slight play in o/s wheel ??? top swivel pin ???.
Bearings seem fine and free, no catching, growling or noises, or movement when wheels rocked at 3&9.
Prop shafts seemed ok without any obvious looseness or noises.

The I saw that the boot on the drop arm ball joint had perished and on further inspection the whole thing was rusted and loose with a few cm of play. The bottom cover plate had fallen off too. That would account for the vague steering on cornering. Still unsure as the the knocking sound on turning but that could be the ball joint?

Going to order a kit as I now have access to a garage, tools and a knowledgable person so are there any recommended ones eg. Delphi, blue box, Bearmach.....or should I get a complete arm and risk the problem of the old one being stuck to the shaft of a rather old steering box?

Cheers.

Click to expand...

Get the kit and the whole new arm, your mate will appreciate it having the parts there if it goes tits up and the kit fails to do the job.
If arm will not come off, just split it using a grinder with a 1mm disc and a chisel, Iirc they are master splined.

New britpart arm is okay so long as the part number ends in the letter G.

Spent three hours replacing the drop arm ball joint. Tried to do the ball joint in situ but the top sleeve wouldn't budge so decided to remove the drop arm off the steering box. That was a bugger and took lot of thwacking, prising and swearing to shift it but it did come off eventually.

Managed to drift the sleeve out once on the bench, cleaned it up and reassembled using a Bearmach kit ('Made in India') and used a vice, sockets and clamps to press the end cap back in the ball joint to fix the circlip, what a pain!

Reassembled everything and drove away for a test drive and the bottom cap and circlip popped out after a couple of feet! Stuffed it all back with the ball joint in situ using a bottle jack and socket to push the cap and pushing up on the damper bar to help compress the joint spring. A second test drive and all ok, steering now much more precise and no looseness on turning left.

But.....there is a slight ticking on turning right and as seen yesterday a bit of play in the o/s wheel at 12&6, possible top swivel pin?

Before and after:

Told you it would be a pain.
I have fitted a grease nipple to the cap on mine to make the darn thing live longer, hatefull job.
Some have fitted Disco drop arm and steering rod that use standard track ends but you need to clamp or weld a bracket for the steering damper as disos is on track rod.

Noticed the other day that the coiled spring that holds the rubber boot on the drop arm ball joint has somehow stretched so much that the rubber cover had slipped down 2 weeks after replacing the ball joint - see above.
Cut it off and managed to pull the boot back into place and used a thin cable tie to secure it. So far been on a week and still there!

Since doing the drop arm ball joint the steering is now spot on but the clicking noise from the right on full lock is more apparent especially when reversing on so ordered a new CV joint to replace the left one. Just happen to have a spare new wheel bearing in case the old one is tired so might replace that at the same time. Got access to a ramp etc next week so will do it then.

The exhaust note has been sounding quite fruity and found a small hole in the back box and pipe leading to it, sounds good but next on the list; probably patch it for now as the rest looks quite sound. Mild steel system installed with the V8 so been on five years now.

cappers said:

Still unsure as the the knocking sound on turning but that could be the ball joint?

Click to expand...

cappers said:

But.....there is a slight ticking on turning right and as seen yesterday a bit of play in the o/s wheel at 12&6, possible top swivel pin?

Click to expand...

It was the front o/s CV joint causing the knocking noise on turning; replaced it today and no more knocking noises
Swivel pins and bearing ok. Easy job per se, just fiddly bits to remove first such as brake mud shield and brake calliper which looked like they'd been on forever.