Lots. Check everything, as the big expensive components like the rear diff, Haldex and PTU aren't as durable or long lasting as the equivalent parts on the FL1.
One thing you'll notice is the parts for the FL2 are more expensive than the same or equivalent parts on the FL1.
Check there's no rear diff noise, as it should be silent when driving.
Check there's no thumping from the back when applying gentle throttle on full lock.
Accelerate away from rest quickly, to test for front tyre slipping, which if present suggests the PTU isn't driving the rear.
Make sure the gearbox changes gears smoothly.
Make sure the key dock is smooth to take the key, and spits it out properly too. Also make sure it has both keys, and they are complete, as replacements are silly expensive.
Make sure everything electrical works, as some replacement electrical gubbins are expensive to replace.
Make sure all doors lock and unlock, and all windows go down and up properly, test both manual control and auto control window function.
Look underneath for corrosion on the front and rear subframes, as both rust.
The body generally doesn't rust, but the rear wheel arches do on some models.
Check the power steering pipes for corrosion, which are visible at the back of the engine, if the RH front wheel is put on full left lock.
Make sure the engine starts quickly, doesn't rattle, and doesn't smoke. Also that it's had its timing belt replaced, unless you plan on doing it yourself, then factor a price reduction to offset the parts cost.
Be aware that the FL2 is more expensive to own than the FL1, and some parts simply don't last long as the same or equivalent part on the FL1, and always seem more expensive too.
Otherwise they're nice vehicles to drive, and have more space than the FL1 too.
I love mine, except when it goes wrong, which at the moment seems quite often.
