What primer do i use on aluminium

Hello.
I am currently working on a land rover series 3 88 and have all the paint and primer off the aluminium.

And I'm wondering what primer will stick to the aluminium. And whats the best of these two primer for this.

You need an 'etch' primer for alluminium. Also called a 'special metals' primer.
Etch primers contain a small amount of phosphoric acid which forms a physical and chemical bond.

You can get 2 pack etch primers.
I haven't heard of Novol products and don't know if those in your picture contain phosphporic acid or not.

I looked it up on Google and the Novol Protect 340 is an etch primer ....

Use this, U-POL Acid#8 is an excellent all round acid etch primer. Have been using this for decades, it's never reacted with any paint nor paint enamel.


and comes in larger tins

miktdish said:

You need an 'etch' primer for alluminium. Also called a 'special metals' primer.
Etch primers contain a small amount of phosphoric acid which forms a physical and chemical bond.

You can get 2 pack etch primers.
I haven't heard of Novol products and don't know if those in your picture contain phosphporic acid or not.

I looked it up on Google and the Novol Protect 340 is an etch primer ....

NOVOL PROTECT 340 Acid Etch Primer Kit 2K 37211KIT

Place your order today for a NOVOL PROTECT 340 Acid Etch Primer Kit 2K 37211KIT by 2pm for fast dispatch. We deliver direct your home or business.

toolforce.ie

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Hello.
I was at the auto shop and they were the two he was recommended to use and he also recommended to use 1k #8acid etch primer on the galvanised bulkhead.
I'm using 2k paint.
Thanks

IDK... said:

Hello.
I was at the auto shop and they were the two he was recommended to use and he also recommended to use 1k #8acid etch primer on the galvanised bulkhead.
I'm using 2k paint.
Thanks

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U-POL Acid#8 is ideal with 2k.

Have you used 2k before? If not, be very careful as 2k contains isocyanate and is highly carcinogenic. Isocyanate is readily absorbed through the lungs, eyes and skin. You must wear total PPE with no skin/eyes exposed and be 100% certain of having fresh air flow. If you do not have a fresh air fed head mask use Gerson 2k masks + 100% eye cover + head cover. Best to wear all over overalls with hoods. Even if your just spraying a small area you must fully cover up with 2k.

v8250 said:

Use this, U-POL Acid#8 is an excellent all round acid etch primer. Have been using this for decades, it's never reacted with any paint nor paint enamel.

ACID#8 1K Acid Etch Primer - U-Pol

Promotes paint adhesion to difficult substrates such as galvanised steel and aluminium. Ideal for rub through areas in primer prior to application of colour.

u-pol.com

and comes in larger tins

ACID#8 1K Acid Etch Primer - U-Pol

ACID#8 is a fast drying primer to help paint adhere to difficult substrates. Ideal for rub throughs in primer prior to application of colour on new bare metal panels. Also available in 450ml aerosol.

u-pol.com

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Is it ok to use on the outside and is it durable enough for a galvanised bulkhead and outside of the vehicle that is aluminium.

v8250 said:

U-POL Acid#8 is ideal with 2k.

Have you used 2k before? If not, be very careful as 2k contains isocyanate and is highly carcinogenic. Isocyanate is readily absorbed through the lungs, eyes and skin. You must wear total PPE with no skin/eyes exposed and be 100% certain of having fresh air flow. If you do not have a fresh air fed head mask use Gerson 2k masks + 100% eye cover + head cover. Best to wear all over overalls with hoods. Even if your just spraying a small area you must fully cover up with 2k.

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I'm doing it in my shed so I didn't know it was that dangerous. Is the epoxy primer safer to use and does it stick to the aluminium good.

IDK... said:

Is it ok to use on the outside and is it durable enough for a galvanised bulkhead and outside of the vehicle that is aluminium.

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Inside or outside. It is a primer, so just helps the topcoat stick on the metal, it doesn't have to resist the weather itself.
Special metals primer is good for all non ferrous metals, including galv.
I have never heard of that stuff either, I just use Teamac or Blackfriars on galv, not had any issues.
With new shiny galv, give it a wash with mordant solution before painting with the primer, be on the safe side.
With old galv or ali, the special metals primer will stick fine.

IDK... said:

Hello.
I was at the auto shop and they were the two he was recommended to use and he also recommended to use 1k #8acid etch primer on the galvanised bulkhead.
I'm using 2k paint.
Thanks

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Why not use Tractol enamel for topcoat? Pretty much everyone else does. Cheap, and you can brush it on, so not as hazardous as spraying, and you don't need so much kit.

Turboman said:

Why not use Tractol enamel for topcoat? Pretty much everyone else does. Cheap, and you can brush it on, so not as hazardous as spraying, and you don't need so much kit.

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Does it still need a primer even at bare aluminium. Thanks

IDK... said:

I'm doing it in my shed so I didn't know it was that dangerous. Is the epoxy primer safer to use and does it stick to the aluminium good.

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All industrial spray paints are highly dangerous as they are spray particulates that are readily absorbed through the lungs, eyes and skin. Lacquers and 2K's are the killers and once in the system, the body, they cannot be removed. If you are not 100% sure of how to protect yourself using only the correct PPE do not do this task. Take the panel/s / Land Rover to a bodyshop who have both the right equipment and the right PPE.

Google 2k paint isocyantes risks and cancer risks. Drill down deep enough and the results are shocking.

IDK... said:

Does it still need a primer even at bare aluminium. Thanks

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Etch primer, 2 coats, then Tractol, 2 coats, doubt if you will get a problem.
if you intend laning or off road use, you are going to be doing plenty of touch ups anyway, unless you are Ok with scratched bodywork.

v8250 said:

All industrial spray paints are highly dangerous as they are spray particulates that are readily absorbed through the lungs, eyes and skin. Lacquers and 2K's are the killers and once in the system, the body, they cannot be removed. If you are not 100% sure of how to protect yourself using only the correct PPE do not do this task. Take the panel/s / Land Rover to a bodyshop who have both the right equipment and the right PPE.

Google 2k paint isocyantes risks and cancer risks. Drill down deep enough and the results are shocking.

Click to expand...

The boatyards that spray 2 pack wear a positive pressure respirator while they are doing it.

Most don't recommend 2 pack anyway, they think it sets very hard, and can come off in sheets.
Conventional paint and primer can chip or scratch, but is easy and safe to touch up from time to time.

v8250 said:

All industrial spray paints are highly dangerous as they are spray particulates that are readily absorbed through the lungs, eyes and skin. Lacquers and 2K's are the killers and once in the system, the body, they cannot be removed. If you are not 100% sure of how to protect yourself using only the correct PPE do not do this task. Take the panel/s / Land Rover to a bodyshop who have both the right equipment and the right PPE.

Google 2k paint isocyantes risks and cancer risks. Drill down deep enough and the results are shocking.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the help and it's really is appreciated.
By going with you advice I'm thinking it'll be to dangerous of me.
I've got zinc 182 rust inhibiting primer and 2k paint plus hardener will they work together or can I use the enamel and the zinc 182 rust inhibiting primer. What have you used the past prime wise.
Thanks.

Not all 2k is isocyanide paint.

Painting a heap in anything once every twenty years ain’t going to give you cancer for gods sake.
Different if your bathing in it ever day for your job.

Just squint a bit and dampen the hankey round your face.

IDK... said:

Thanks for the help and it's really is appreciated.
By going with you advice I'm thinking it'll be to dangerous of me.
I've got zinc 182 rust inhibiting primer and 2k paint plus hardener will they work together or can I use the enamel and the zinc 182 rust inhibiting primer. What have you used the past prime wise.
Thanks.

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I do not use 2k as I do not have the safety equipment do not have or know how to spray paint and do not have the incentive to learn. I use enamel and a brush/roller for my repaints so cannot help with any of the discussion above. However @miktdish advice regarding primer is the important part regarding primer for ali which your comments above regarding zinc 182 ignore.

miktdish said:

You need an 'etch' primer for alluminium. Also called a 'special metals' primer.
Etch primers contain a small amount of phosphoric acid which forms a physical and chemical bond.

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^^ for bare ali you need some sort of acid etch primer before doing anything else. Zinc 182 is not an etch primer (and I would argue is designed to rust protect steel rather than ali) I have used hammarite special metal primers for my repaints, not because I have done lots of research and it is the best, but because it is easily available in all local diy stores and, from my experience using it, is perfectly adequate when top coated with a machine/tractor enamel. (for me it also has the advantage of being red which is my top coat colours which is notorious for having poor coverage and needing lots of coats). Both my 110 and series have been painted using this method about 10 years ago and again more recently for various reasons none of which were corrosion or the paint failing.

Has anyone ever used the epoxy primer?