What have you done to your Freelander today

Changed from studded winter tyres to summer tyres - it's finally spring! Falken Wildpeaks on 18" Sports, they sure drive nice.

Bothered by an annoying squeal at low speeds and pulling to the right when braking I took the front wheels off to check the discs and pads. Found a 3" piece of galvanised fence wire partially wedged between pad and disc on passenger side. It had carved a bloody great groove in the disc.
New discs and brake pads ordered.

Took the Sport 18 inch alloys for blasting and refinishing. They weren't bad at first glance but the insides were corroded. Will report back on finish. Looks to be a good place.

Cleaned the CD laser and got rid of Err04 when trying to play disc.

andyfreelandy said:

Cleaned the CD laser and got rid of Err04 when trying to play disc.

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That's a more unusual one for the forum, but well done!

andyfreelandy said:

Cleaned the CD laser and got rid of Err04 when trying to play disc.

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I didn’t see that optional extra listed anywhere

kernowsvenski said:

That's a more unusual one for the forum, but well done!

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Well yes, but I was convinced I would be taking console out and stripping the thing and had little confidence that a £5 cleaning disc would work. But it did! Saved a couple of hours. It was a facelift multi cd in the dash.

Replaced front discs, pads and spring things. Had a bitch of a time pushing the driver's side piston back far enough to fit the new pads. Managed it in the end, but tight. Went for a test drive and as expected driver's side running hot. Should run cooler once new pads are bedded in.

If the piston is that tight then it is corroded and will not improve. Sometimes you can put a block of wood in the caliper and press the brake to expose the piston without popping it out !! Then pull back the rubber gaiter and check / clean the piston.

Best way is new caliper, only about £35 and saves brake wear and fuel loss.

andyfreelandy said:

If the piston is that tight then it is corroded and will not improve. Sometimes you can put a block of wood in the caliper and press the brake to expose the piston without popping it out !! Then pull back the rubber gaiter and check / clean the piston.

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Did all that.

Hit a pheasant and damaged the grille that I had just refurbished and fitted. Duh...............

I put new wiper blades on front and back and now I fully appreciate the song by Johnny Nash

Sitting in it as it shudders violently while trying to read fuel pressure from the Hawkeye in my lap

Of course the moment it's under observation it starts fine

adrianhartopp said:

I put new wiper blades on front and back and now I fully appreciate the song by Johnny Nash

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But who was Lorraine and where has she gone ?!?!

Finally dealt with the horrific wheel bearing whine yesterday. After 165,000mi it was a tad unhealthy!

Took advantage of the hydraulic press and bearing puller at Uni which made the job miles easier. Just had to use some cut up stock to space the knuckle as the wheel hub was wider than the ram passthrough.

So nice to be able to converse with passengers at 50mph and not wince at every right hand bend

Only issue was a stuck damper strut bolt - annoying seeing as they were off in November for driveshafts and had copper slip on shank.

Swl26 said:

Finally dealt with the horrific wheel bearing whine yesterday. After 165,000mi it was a tad unhealthy!

Took advantage of the hydraulic press and bearing puller at Uni which made the job miles easier. Just had to use some cut up stock to space the knuckle as the wheel hub was wider than the ram passthrough.

So nice to be able to converse with passengers at 50mph and not wince at every right hand bend

Only issue was a stuck damper strut bolt - annoying seeing as they were off in November for driveshafts and had copper slip on shank.

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Handy having access to the right tools for the job.

I always find getting the front of the bearing off the hub is the hard bit. Usually grind 3/4 way through and smack with cold.chisel.

andyfreelandy said:

I always find getting the front of the bearing off the hub is the hard bit. Usually grind 3/4 way through and smack with cold.chisel.

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Ended up using a chisel to force a gap between the hub and inner race, then the workshop manager says, 'weve got a puller if you want' - All in all, not the worst Freelander job I've done... so far lol.

Atomician said:

Hi Andy, thanks again for the offer, I've checked the connectors and they look exactly the same, I'll try and DM you in a mo and we can sort the postage if that's ok


Many thanks for the advice, I'll give that a go for sure

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Hi, had a quick look at the window switch you sent back & as you can see from the pic the contacts are a bit burnt but nothing a clean won't fix so as suggested it would be worth checking your heated seat switch,all the best.

Took a look under today 7m on the road and the Lanoguard is still in place and smells still of sheep
Definitely worth the cost and little effort to apply