What have you done to your Freelander today

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...found rust in the back door, at the bottom :( Used the Dremel to get it away, then rust converter, will paint tomorrow. Bet it comes back soon... Is it common, or maybe just a bad window seal? We do have a lot of road salt in the withers here!
 

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Winu said:
Common in that place, and few others. Easy to cure ;)
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Thought so, and thanks... The same goes with passenger back door, bottom that is (5 door model), and sill on the right of back door, by any chance...? Fuel tank guard is a mess too... :rolleyes:
 
i got some bubbles on sill under rear door too, but this is only a paint fall. Few guys report problem in that area - probably some factory fault. When you remove it and clean it's solid clean metal under.
Use some wrench and knock - if you sound a metal - no big deal.

All doors are clean, just make sure that drain holes are clean. Also i filled doors with wax.
Situation under wheel arches was also pretty good just few spots of rust - mainly surface.

IMG_0562.jpg


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Not bad for 14yrs old car. All cleaned up, treated with rust chemistry, and painted with body protector.

P1050822.jpg


Remove tail door seal from flange (lower part) and cure rust spots,

rdza.jpg


also remove glass finisher and clean rusty spots. And of course handle.
P1040619.jpg
 
htr said:
Made up my new CAF using 65mm PVC down pipe. It's behind the LH Wing. Checked fit with guard on - all good, and its about 40mm higher than original.
Click to expand...
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.



 
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htr said:
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.



:)
Click to expand...
Excellent work! Loving the pipe work:)
 
htr said:
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.



:)
Click to expand...


That's awesome! Does it fit snugly to the the engine?
 
htr said:
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.



:)
Click to expand...

Looking good. I would turn the end 45º pipe downward and away from the boby so you can fit the ram pipe included in the kit.
But otherwise, that is looking spot on ;)
 
Winu said:
i got some bubbles on sill under rear door too, but this is only a paint fall. Few guys report problem in that area - probably some factory fault. When you remove it and clean it's solid clean metal under.
Use some wrench and knock - if you sound a metal - no big deal.

All doors are clean, just make sure that drain holes are clean. Also i filled doors with wax.
Situation under wheel arches was also pretty good just few spots of rust - mainly surface.
Click to expand...

Sounds good all in all - yes, mine isn't new either, so guess it's what I (Freelander owners) have to live with. Will look at those particular places you mention. Got it booked in for a full (double) wax and underbody treatment in two weeks :)
 
htr said:
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this.
Click to expand...

Looking very good, nice bit of work.

htr said:
Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.
Click to expand...

Can you use a couple of scrivets through those holes on the inner wing and a couple of brackets?

htr said:


:)
Click to expand...
 
ThomasDK said:
...found rust in the back door, at the bottom :( Used the Dremel to get it away, then rust converter, will paint tomorrow. Bet it comes back soon... Is it common, or maybe just a bad window seal? We do have a lot of road salt in the withers here!
Click to expand...

Mine is rusty along the bottom, mainly along the seam and it's rusting around the centre mounting of the rear handle:(
 
htr said:
I fitted the flared ram tube but it makes things to wide. If I turn it so it points downward the intake level would be below the original height. A conundrum!
Click to expand...

As long as water can't get into the pipe. Can you not leave the 45º pipe off? That will still put the intake above the factory level, without the worry of water dripping into the intake pipe. I would definitely try to fit the trumpet. Or heat and flair the plastic to ease air flow.
 
Nodge68 said:
As long as water can't get into the pipe. Can you not leave the 45º pipe off? That will still put the intake above the factory level, without the worry of water dripping into the intake pipe. I would definitely try to fit the trumpet. Or heat and flair the plastic to ease air flow.
Click to expand...

The original intake level approx' matches the the lower edge of the inner guard's box section. I could shorten the pipe and as you suggest flare it above the wheel, doing away with that 45º. My original pipe had a longish diagonal cut I could refit that instead of the 45º and invert it to avoid any water dripping in. May need to reheat that bend and get the whole deal pointing upward a bit more.
 
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