Water pump (I think) help urgent

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finallysnapped

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East Lothian
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The wheel/ pulley on the front has part number ERR3734

My serpentine belt was being pulled off as in another thread. The tensioner looked like it needed replaced but the pulley pictured above has massive play in, extremely wobbly and water is coming out.

Is this the water pump?

Is this what I need to replace it with, does the actual pulley wheel thing just bolt onto this?

$T2eC16FHJHEE9ny2p)s4BQ)5urVQ2Q~~60_12.JPG
 
Thank you, I just wanted to check everything before I spent more money. I was comfortable enough changing the belt and tensioner myself but this pump will be a mechanic job, it's a wee bit beyond my diy confidence.
 
Not really a hard job most DIY people can do it just take your time and remember where the blots go
Get an old pice of card draw around it and when you take the bolts out
Push them through the card in an aprox the same place as you took them out
Go easy when removing the bolts and a good clean of the bolts over them in copper
Grease clean off the mating faces use some instant gasket and the new paper gasket
Bolt it back together
 
Where are you?

Scottyland.

My mechanic is generally pretty good with me and it's probably worthwhile to just make sure there's no other parts on their way out.

I wouldn't have noticed this was as bad as it is had the belt not have had to come off, under tension it doesn't have much play in it but as soon as the engine is running or the belt is off the wheel is all over the place. So fingers crossed this and the new tensioner is the end of this set of problems.
 
Not really a hard job most DIY people can do it just take your time and remember where the blots go
Get an old pice of card draw around it and when you take the bolts out
Push them through the card in an aprox the same place as you took them out
Go easy when removing the bolts and a good clean of the bolts over them in copper
Grease clean off the mating faces use some instant gasket and the new paper gasket
Bolt it back together
There it is. Using a cardboard template to manage the bolts is a really easy way of keeping track of all of them and their different sizes.
 
Ok so why did I always think the water pump was deep down on the bowels of the engine and a pig of a job when it's really at the top and you're all saying it's easy?

Is it generally more inaccessible on different engines or have I grown up believing a lie?
 
Yeah it's at the top where your pic is, 200tdi is easier than 300 but neither is really technical

That's what I mean though I always heard this mantra of change your water pump when you do your timing belt because of all the labour involved.

Is the connection between the two really just the lifespan of the parts?

This is me learning btw so sorry for all the questions.
 
That's what I mean though I always heard this mantra of change your water pump when you do your timing belt because of all the labour involved.

Is the connection between the two really just the lifespan of the parts?

This is me learning btw so sorry for all the questions.

The oil pump is behind the timing case and so you do that at the same time as the timing belt (if needed) the water pump is separate
 
That's what I mean though I always heard this mantra of change your water pump when you do your timing belt because of all the labour involved.

Is the connection between the two really just the lifespan of the parts?

This is me learning btw so sorry for all the questions.

Most modern engines have the cambelt / timing belt running the water pump aswell so it's advised to do it at belt change, 300tdi is of the older design type
 
That's what I mean though I always heard this mantra of change your water pump when you do your timing belt because of all the labour involved.

Is the connection between the two really just the lifespan of the parts?

This is me learning btw so sorry for all the questions.

On some vehicles, particularly front wheel drive ones, the water pump is in the same, difficult to get at area, so most garages recommend changing it at the same time as the cambelt.

This logic does not apply to TDi 200 and 300. The water pump is straightforward to get at, without touching the cambelt timing chest.

Just a couple of tips for you:

1. Slacken the three pulley bolts before you remove the belt, makes it a bit easier;

2. Make sure you have plenty of new coolant in stock as you will lose some when removing the pump, ensure you have a large enough collecting vessel (10 litres);

3. Ensure you clean off all traces of the old gasket, before installing the new pump;

4. Put a thin sliver of Hylomar Blue sealant on both sides of the new gasket;

5. Install all the pump retaining bolts at the same time, but snug them up in a diagonal fashion to ensure the pump settles correctly. There are about six bolts from memory, so do one at 9 'o clock, then one at 3'o clock, one at 6'o clock and one at 12.

In other words don't install one bolt, bang it up tight before moving onto the one next to it.

5. Refill the coolant circuit via the thermostat housing, when it's full, replace the plug and let the engine run for a bit. Then check the level in the header tank. You make find the level drops over the next few days, this is due to air locks working their way out. NB. monitor this level carefully until it has fully settled, topping up as necessary.

Honestly replacing the water pump IS an easy job.

If you haven't considered it, replacing the 'P' gasket would be a good thing to do at the same time, if it doesn't phase you too much.

PEB500090G | Water pump and gasket - OE supplier - 300TDI

ERR4686B | 300TDI Thermostat Housing Plug - Brass



Hope that helps.


Dave
 
On some vehicles, particularly front wheel drive ones, the water pump is in the same, difficult to get at area, so most garages recommend changing it at the same time as the cambelt.

This logic does not apply to TDi 200 and 300. The water pump is straightforward to get at, without touching the cambelt timing chest.

Just a couple of tips for you:

1. Slacken the three pulley bolts before you remove the belt, makes it a bit easier;

2. Make sure you have plenty of new coolant in stock as you will lose some when removing the pump, ensure you have a large enough collecting vessel (10 litres);

3. Ensure you clean off all traces of the old gasket, before installing the new pump;

4. Put a thin sliver of Hylomar Blue sealant on both sides of the new gasket;

5. Install all the pump retaining bolts at the same time, but snug them up in a diagonal fashion to ensure the pump settles correctly. There are about six bolts from memory, so do one at 9 'o clock, then one at 3'o clock, one at 6'o clock and one at 12.

In other words don't install one bolt, bang it up tight before moving onto the one next to it.

5. Refill the coolant circuit via the thermostat housing, when it's full, replace the plug and let the engine run for a bit. Then check the level in the header tank. You make find the level drops over the next few days, this is due to air locks working their way out. NB. monitor this level carefully until it has fully settled, topping up as necessary.

Honestly replacing the water pump IS an easy job.

If you haven't considered it, replacing the 'P' gasket would be a good thing to do at the same time, if it doesn't phase you too much.

PEB500090G | Water pump and gasket - OE supplier - 300TDI

ERR4686B | 300TDI Thermostat Housing Plug - Brass



Hope that helps.


Dave
I thought I covered this but hay
 
Not really a hard job most DIY people can do it just take your time and remember where the blots go
Get an old pice of card draw around it and when you take the bolts out
Push them through the card in an aprox the same place as you took them out
Go easy when removing the bolts and a good clean of the bolts over them in copper
Grease clean off the mating faces use some instant gasket and the new paper gasket
Bolt it back together

Did you, really?


Helpful post.
Perhaps not as indepth as you but ?
 
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