Turning the key several times to start TD4

Hi All,

Our Freelander had been struggling to start recently. I suspected injectors as glow plugs and crankcase breather filter had been changed, I cleaned the EGR valve and checked fuel was free from water. Fuel filter was changed 8K miles ago, but will be changing again soon.

So I tried turning the key to pos II and then off, repeated 4 times and on the 5th go, she starts perfectly. A moment of rough running but nothing too serious. Some white smoke, but nothing serious.

On occasions, there seems to be (what I would say) is a loss of power below 2000rpm. No engine management lights. Car is otherwise fine.

So what does this mean? Is it a glow plug heating issue the fact that to get the car to start the key must be turned so many times?

Car is a facelift 2004 TD4 with 118K miles on the clock.

Insight from you wise ones much appreciated.

first thing to check is the high pressure fuel sensor on the end on the common rail.
Uplug it and check all the contacts are clean.

nice one mjrimmer, advice appreciated. Will check this evening and revert.

failing that, could be a faulty injector causing leak back, engine won't start unless pressure in all 4 injectors is equal, leak off test would prove or disprove.

Thank OP. I did suspect injectors, as 3 look original so a leak back test is on the cards. For the moment, however, I'd like to cross off the cheaper bits and bos which could be causing it.

I'll pop the car into a garage to get the leakback test done. Trouble is, all the ones local to me (I get the impression) are a bit dodgy.

Asked one for a rough idea on replacing a weeping pinion seal on the rear diff and he told me the diff was probably buggered and needed replacement - "they all leak from there when they're past their life". He hadn't even seen the car. The RD is fine. Just needs a new seal. So my trust is limited to a place out Swanley/Dartford way.

twin_cam_turbo said:

So my trust is limited to a place out Swanley/Dartford way.

Click to expand...

Think I know who you mean, I use them too, good as gold. Really wary about recommending things to other people, but every time, would recommend them.

Yup, they've always been good to us. Unfortunately with work, we won't be able to drop the car off to them in the next few weeks so have booked the freelander into a local place in Biggin hill who apparently specialise in LR.
they will change the pinion oil seal on our rear diff and do a leakback test if I ask them to.
This means I have tonight to check the connector mjrimmer refers to and see if that cures this problem.

Thanks all

Hi,

This sounds like the fuel pumps anre knackered, i speak from experience.

Turn the key to the ignotion on position for about 20 seonds then turn off. Do this about 5 - 10 times.

Then try and start it, it should go.

This builds up the fuel pressure before you try to start it, as the pumps are not coping.

I did this for about a month before the car cut out completely, in rush hour, in leicester city center. ooopps.

ah. That doesn't sound good Vertuas. Not good at all.

But with ours, you only have to turn the key for a few seconds and then back off.
It could still be the pump though. Is it possible to feel it prime perhaps so I can check?

Seem to think there are two - one in the tank and one underbonnet?

EDIT: I know the one in the tank is beavering away as I can hear it priming when I switch ignition to position II. Surely if it was failing, it would be making a racket or not working at all. It primes for about 30-40 seconds.
If it needs a new pump(s) it will get genuine units...not aftermaket.

Many thanks for your input.

The one in the tank is a Sender.

The noise is from the o/s/r wheelarch, where the pump is.

Thanks vissie.
So if I can hear the tank pump prime, I presume it's ok. Will put it on the maybe list.

Cheers.

twin_cam_turbo said:

Thanks vissie.
So if I can hear the tank pump prime, I presume it's ok. Will put it on the maybe list.

Cheers.

Click to expand...

I recently had this in the wifes 2004 facelift Td4, It turned out to be the (wheelarch) low pressure pump. I had to resort to the "bash it" method by thumping the wheelarch liner with a rubber mallet in the vicinity of the pump to get it going.It must have been gradually failing over a period of time -and starving the hp pump- cos when it eventually stopped working and I had to replace it (not nearly as difficult as some would have you believe) afterwards the car drove with a pep that it did not have before. If your car is still on its original pump then it might be worth replacing it anyway as it will fail eventually even if this is not the problem you currently have.

on my td4 in the tank is the pump as well as sender

Right-o, here's the problem.

#2 injector serious leak back, #3 injector medium leak back. #1 and 4 are fine.

So I'm now on the hunt for some reconditioned injectors as the mechanic says he can't get hold of any at the moment from his normal sources. Only new.

Hi,

How did you test the leak back, i need to do mine.....

Beware changing injector, they have a nasty habit of breaking off, requiring the head to be remove to retrive the bit that drop in the cylinder.

Freelander injectors scare the crap out me.....

Vertuas said:

Hi,
How did you test the leak back, i need to do mine.....

Click to expand...

Gave it to a garage
Have ordered 2 x injectors (recon) to be fitted by them.

Am I allowed to mention the suppliers if they've given good service?

So here it goes...

Four new injectors and she's running sweet as a nut.
Had fantastic service from Dave at Holmes 4x4 in Biggin Hill so will reccomend him in the dealers section.

Very helpful givven the troubles he experienced with the car

Can someone PLEASE explain in a how to on........

How to do a leak back test on injectors so I can check my misses TD4 2006.

i think yu mean a leak "off" test.

Remove engine cover to access the injectors. The small bore flexi pipes that link across the injector tops are the "leak off" or "spill pipes" that return fuel back to the tank when the engine is running. BUT with the ignition on but engine NOT started the low pressure fuel pump/s build up pressure in the injectors and NO fuel should be returning via these pipes.
Prepare to test; pull out the spring clip which secures the "T" piece on each injector and carefully lift out each plastic "T". Don't try to pull the pipes from the T because they will snap off and are difficult to come by. With all four disconnected clamp the pipe before the first T piece where it comes up in front of the engine to prevent fuel coming back up the pipe from other locations.
To test simply turn on the ignition (don't start) and check for fuel emitting from the injector tops. Any that leak need to be replaced as this is where fuel pressure required for initial starting is being lost.

Found this pdf HERE its saying the same I presume.

Thanks.