timing and weber again....

I've got a length of 3mm silicon hose but left the main part metal as I thought if I piped the whole lot in silicon it would collapse in on itself?

can I pipe it all in flexi silicon and maybe attach it to bulkhead to stop it getting hot?

The pipe on the link I posted is solid plastic I doubt silicone will hold as there's a fair vacuum. For £2.50 you can't really go wrong...However, the spacer is probably the thing to try first

joe27979 said:

well it didn't stall the whole journey..great!
but after getting home it was running rough again rather than sweet.

vid and description:
exhaust after 20mile trip, rough and down to 600rpm.. was running sweet at 1000rpm before journey - YouTube

you can see fuel clip removed from dizzy base:


plan view:


carb:


suggestions?

Click to expand...

insulator for carb is missing

I purchased one:

WEBER 34 ICH/ICT CARBURETTOR BASE BLOCK GASKET

http://bit.ly/1j9Ft8a

can't find any insulators on ebay

Hang on there looks to be a pipe fitting on the carb adaptor plate (arrowed, behind the vac pipe). Is that blocked up. That looks to me to be the one that is supposed to connect up to via a restrictor T-piece to the breather and inlet pipe.

If that is not blocked up or blocked up badly then you'll get all sorts of bother. Also, how "warm" was the engine when you set up the carb it should be _fully_ up to temperature, best is to give it a fast run not just leave it idling.

yep that pipe is fully blocked up by a hard brown wax/solder
engine was fast idled at 1200rpm until temp gauge read normal (half way)

setting carb up is a bit weird, if I unscrew mixture this adds more fuel and causes engine to increase in speed right...then I unscrew idle screw to settle it back down..then repeat process until mixture screw doesn't do anything to engine speed?

Not quite you get it so that the highest rpm you can achieve with the mixture screw is 850 i.e. either way makes it run slower then turn mixture clockwise half a turn for a leaner idle and roughly 850rpm. (see guide below)

I'd also not just warm up by idling but go for a hard drive for 10 minutes to get it fully up to temperature. But before spending any more time on it I'd make sure you have that spacer gasket fitted otherwise you'll be chasing your tail...

BTW that looks to be a new carb, where did you get it from?

Weber

carb was from Paddocks-came new in a sealed weber box..they had it in offer at £99

I'll take it to work today and do carb when I get back then

in that vid I just posted, I tried turning mixture a while turn both ways and nothing happened-even screwed in the idle screw 1 turn and it made little difference compared to my setup which was smooth earlier.

I'll wait for this spacer block to arrive and repost my findings

appreciate your input chaps

When you were getting no change with the mixture screw was it warm - if so (and the carb is hot to touch) I'd suspect you're getting vapour in the idle circuit of the carb.

dominicbeesley said:

When you were getting no change with the mixture screw was it warm - if so (and the carb is hot to touch) I'd suspect you're getting vapour in the idle circuit of the carb.

Click to expand...

It was just after my 20 mile trip so yes engine very hot, didn't feel carb body but as I have no insulator im guessing you are on the right track.

Anything else I can do apart from my ebay purchase? Any other cars insulator block fit the weber/series3 combo?

got back from a 13 mile journey today. not touched it since ran rough the other day.
it seemed ok, mind you it was blooming cold outside!

checked coil and carb when I got home and both seemed reasonably cool-could easily keep my hand on both. new carb thick gasket arrived today so I'll fit this weekend hopefully

fitted the spacer gasket tonight..



no idea how much to torque it though :-/

just tight

got a new thicker vac hose today that shouldn't collapse:

Don't understand why you didn't get the proper ones off ebay for £3...

I did get the one off ebay as suggested but it was too short and the ends were loose-the bloke said he couldn't do them any longer.
this vac pipe was £4 from halfords and much better quality

Really? I got one and it fit ok, was snug but fine...anyway who cares if it works?

Is it running better now?

Just been out in mine...fookin freezing, door seals gone on passenger side and it's sleet, hail and rain coming in...

dominicbeesley said:

Really? I got one and it fit ok, was snug but fine...anyway who cares if it works?

Is it running better now?

Just been out in mine...fookin freezing, door seals gone on passenger side and it's sleet, hail and rain coming in...

Click to expand...

lol it's running ok at the moment thanks, slight rattle at higher rpm so I'm going to adjust valve clearences again just to be sure

new doors and seals on mine and I can still see a few gaps..think new door tops are poo.

I'll update running status after valve check 2m

"rattle" at high rpm might well be the engine pinking, that is the exploding petrol hitting the piston as it is still coming upwards. Retard the timing a few degrees and it should go away. You will (probably) find it does it more at medium to high revs under load. I've got mine set to just pink at about 3000rpm under heavy load with 98ron shell petrol. The higher the RON number the more you can advance, although some petrols achieve their higher ron by cheating and it doesn't work as well. The shell v-power thing seems to be best. Modern engines have a knock sensor tuned to the pitch of the pinking noise that automatically adjust the timing for the grade of petrol.

I've just ordered a full set of seals - hopefully they'll come before I go off to Germany next week (and be easy to fit) otherwise the missus will be moaning all the way there!

New door tops I got were a bit poo, made slightly less poo by slackening off the fixing buts and pulling the top in toward the body before retightening. 20 minutes of faffing like that got them sealing all way round on drivers (new top) side. Not sure I dare do it on passenger side. If I swing on that I'll just end up with an armful of rust and glass!

it kinda sounds like a newtons cradle does but a lot more often if that makes sense.

I'm at about 10dbtdc at the mo, if I retard does that mean take it more towards TDC on my strobe? ie 8dbtdc for example?