The ongoing saga 4? (lost track of the number)

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I had a quick conversation with the specialist who repaired my cylinder head cracked injector housing and he said because the engine is flooding which is causing a hydraulic block it must be either the copper sealing washer is not sealing (I dont think this is the problem as I would expect it to make one hell of a noise) - or the injector tip has gone (which was running perfectly until I took the head off).

Any thoughts on either of these options before I go down what could be an expensive route?

:boom:
 
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i also forgot how many times i insisted on the fuel pressure reading:D (the tester will not help you with that) ... i can't emit other oppinion untill we are not certain that the pump delivers enough;)
 
I have got a fuel pressure reading now...it is slightly over 4 bars and its been holding that pressure for 7 mins +. And that was achieved by bypassing the pump relay and I kept it running for 7 mins
i also forgot how many times i insisted on the fuel pressure reading:D (the tester will not help you with that) ... i can't emit other oppinion untill we are not certain that the pump delivers enough;)
 
OK then, but to be relevant let the gauge there and watch the pressure on that short period while the engine runs...before that swap relay R9(main) with R8(heated screen), and R1( pump) with R8(headlamp wash) in engine bay to make sure it's not a management or electric issue...cos if the gauge will drop on this "live" test it means the ECU cuts the fuel for some reason
 
Ok, will do - but for my own understanding - how is shifting the relays around going to give me the information to know if this is a management or electric issue?

If it is an electrical or engine management fault - surely my new tester would pick these up?

...am I being thick (no need to answer that)?
:doh:

OK then, but to be relevant let the gauge there and watch the pressure on that short period while the engine runs...before that swap relay R9(main) with R8(heated screen), and R1( pump) with R8(headlamp wash) in engine bay to make sure it's not a management or electric issue...cos if the gauge will drop on this "live" test it means the ECU cuts the fuel for some reason
 
1. the idea was to swap the relays to make sure it's not the relay itself at fault supposing the other relay is deffinately good...the diagnostic will not show if the fuel pump relay is tired ...which means it can close contacts then loose contact under load due to physical wear of it's internals...or other reason to fail cos the fuel delivery sistem is not covered by diagnostics at all

2. the diagnostic might also not show if due to some wiring issue or bad earth or other strange reason the ECU cuts the feed of the main relay leaving the engine withou fuel or crank signal... though for the crank signal there must be a fault code

that was what i meant
 
Thanks for this explanation - that helps me understand.

I switched all relays round - no difference - so switched them back again.
Engine doesn't run long enough to look at the pressure guage.

When I got it started it run for 30 secs approx - sounded good - but then cut out.

When I go into Special Diagnostics on my diagnistic tool - select pump - and it now tells me that the pump is forced off!!

1. the idea was to swap the relays to make sure it's not the relay itself at fault supposing the other relay is deffinately good...the diagnostic will not show if the fuel pump relay is tired ...which means it can close contacts then loose contact under load due to physical wear of it's internals...or other reason to fail cos the fuel delivery sistem is not covered by diagnostics at all

2. the diagnostic might also not show if due to some wiring issue or bad earth or other strange reason the ECU cuts the feed of the main relay leaving the engine withou fuel or crank signal... though for the crank signal there must be a fault code

that was what i meant
 
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