The joys of Landrovers

Oil change day for the Hippo.

First removal of the under tray, which was last off when the timing belts were changed by the local independent. I would have very much appreciated it if he had not used the air wrench to do the bolts up. One of the M6 bolts was solid and I ended up rounding the damn thing off trying to get it to shift. Not impressed. Had to drill it out and that wrecked the insert in the subframe.

So changed the oil was no problem after that. Only though to consider is, Why is it as soon as you start to pour the oil into the engine does the wind start to blow?

Now with the job done there is one very interesting observation. The car runs and sounds so much better now. There was no shortage of oil before so I can only assume it was the filters doing. Bit worrying that as the car was on its service interval.

you may have had contamination in the old oil or it may have been heat damaged

Darmain said:

Oil change day for the Hippo.

First removal of the under tray, which was last off when the timing belts were changed by the local independent. I would have very much appreciated it if he had not used the air wrench to do the bolts up. One of the M6 bolts was solid and I ended up rounding the damn thing off trying to get it to shift. Not impressed. Had to drill it out and that wrecked the insert in the subframe.

So changed the oil was no problem after that. Only though to consider is, Why is it as soon as you start to pour the oil into the engine does the wind start to blow?

Now with the job done there is one very interesting observation. The car runs and sounds so much better now. There was no shortage of oil before so I can only assume it was the filters doing. Bit worrying that as the car was on its service interval.

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How long was the service interval? (Hope you greased all the undertray bolts when you put them back in!)

JonFre said:

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How long was the service interval? (Hope you greased all the undertray bolts when you put them back in!)

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Service interval is 6000 miles.

Bolts well and truely greased.

Darmain said:

Service interval is 6000 miles.

Bolts well and truely greased.

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what with? lithium grease? or copper slip?

Lithium to stop them rusting up. I know this can lead to over torquing but I'm not doing them up with a pnematic impact driver like the garage did. Why do them that tight?? It stresses the bolts, causes me loads of hassel and serves no practical purpose.

bolts should be refitted using copper grease (copper slip for the mechanics) its an anti seize compound

why didn't you say something when you saw them doing them up with an impact gun?

G-man said:

bolts should be refitted using copper grease (copper slip for the mechanics) its an anti seize compound

why didn't you say something when you saw them doing them up with an impact gun?

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should have got um to tighton the door hinges up while they were at it

buckshot said:

should have got um to tighton the door hinges up while they were at it

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he sed impact wrench not mig welder!:hysterically_laughi

goonarmy said:

he sed impact wrench not mig welder!:hysterically_laughi

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:doh: silly me ! if they'd done the doors that tight the wings would fall off instead

buckshot said:

:doh: silly me ! if they'd done the doors that tight the wings would fall off instead

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do a blue peter and cover the entire car in sticky back plastic!

G-man said:

do a blue peter and cover the entire car in sticky back plastic!

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:screaming_bug_eye_f thats an idea could do that on me nu td5 deepender then i could go laning without scratching the bastid

G-man said:

bolts should be refitted using copper grease (copper slip for the mechanics) its an anti seize compound

why didn't you say something when you saw them doing them up with an impact gun?

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Ho Ho, the jokers are on tonight!!

I didn't say something cuz I wasn't there. I only realised the problem when I came to undo the damn things. I've been in the garage before and he uses his air gun for everything, without changing the slip setting either.

BTW, thanks for the good advice.

i used to use a 3/8" impact gun for tightening stuff like that up, then go round with a 3/8" ratchet and check they are all tight before i finished the job (slacken off and retighten with the ratchet)

G-man said:

bolts should be refitted using copper grease (copper slip for the mechanics) its an anti seize compound

why didn't you say something when you saw them doing them up with an impact gun?

Click to expand...

Impact gun too heavy for this ? Makes me laugh when I think about the guy who serviced (back in the '60 of last century.....) my Morris Mini. He put the car on a bridge and after he let the old oil out he put the bolt in again and afterwards he put a spanner on it and hung completely on the spanner, he had his feet off the ground, and on top of it he even started to shake his body up and down to make sure the bolt was tight. Idiot. (Sorry, should have said: Complete idiot) afterwards he lowered the bridge and went into the car, he started it up and began to give it a good go on the gas, this until his father jumped out of the office and shouted/asked if he had put oil in the car, which he didn't of course. At that moment I decided I could take care of my car as good as morons like that. As a matter of fact, the first time I changed oil afterwards I couldn't release the bolt so I had to crank up the car and put a spanner on that bolt and fill the gap between the ground and the spanner with a piece of wood, then lowered the car and with a big bang the bolt released. Stupid guy that was.

PS: As I was referring to the '60's I know several people, Ming being the first in line for it, will wonder why the accompanying picture is, so hereafter...... T(D)hat(d)'s army.

only use the gun to save time winding the bolts in then re-check with a ratchet, i had an apprentice start a car without oil in, i heard it start and thought hmm i don't remember the oil tank working (had a central oil tank for bulk 15w/40 oil with an air operated dispenser at either end of the workshop) their was the car up in the air running away with the apprentice standing beneath it, i have never crossed a workshop and climbed a ramp so quick!

Sorry but please replace the word "bridge" by "ramp" in my previous post. (Saw the correct word, which escaped me, used by G-man).

Out of interest I use halfords own 10/40 diesel oil, which is £22 for 5 litres. I do this instead of buying Magnitek at £28 for 4 litres and have to buy another litre (L series needs 5 litres). As I change every 6000 miles I reason the cheaper oil is okay. What do people think of that idea?

wunt touch either of them meself, magnatec is overpriced ****! (caused me old boss problems in his p38 v8) and halfords stuff is what ever they could get stuck in the bottles cheapest, i would use comma, valvoline or shell or if you can stretch to it millers

my local ford garage never touched the sump plug, removed the filter and ran it until the bigends rattled, new filter and top up with new oil. not very nice was it?