Testing if 4WD is actually working

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that's what I am guessing. I will order up a couple of standard hubs and report back with the results.

Thanks again all for your input.

Adie
 
zzr1200 said:
Sorry b20, I apologise, for those who have never driven/owned a series 1, 2 and 3. this covers most of them apart from some very very early 80 inch Series Models and V8 109's

A standard out of the factory series Land Rover does not have Free Wheeling Hubs (FWH) fitted to engage Four Wheel Drive (FWD), you just either move the HI/LO lever backwards into low ratio FWD (4x4) is automatically engaged, or for High Ratio FWD (4x4) you push the yellow knob down which engages High Ratio FWD to return to 2 wheel drive you simply move the HI/LO lever into Low Ratio then back into High Ratio, the yellow knob pops up into the 2x4 position.

I repeat Free Wheeling Hubs are not fitted, on a totally standard Series 1,2 or 3.

In a standard Series Land Rover as you drive along the front axle is either being driven by the transfer box when FWD is engaged or by the front wheels in contact with the road in 2 wheel drive.

Now in High Ratio 2 Wheel Drive (2x4) the front axle (half shafts, diff and front Propshaft) are being driven by the front wheels, when aftermarket optional FWH are fitted it allows the driver to disconnect the drive train in the front axle. It was always stated it helped to increase Mile Per Gallon figures, ie save money on fuel.

Which I never found to be true when I owned my series Land Rovers, thirsty buggers and it didn't matter which engine was fitted, possibly a bit different with a disco engine fitted these days.

So the Free Wheeling Hubs have to be engaged to reconnect the front axle drive train, move the hubs (FWH) from 2x4 to 4x4, now you use the transfer gearbox controls to control FWD.

hth
Click to expand...

TY you for that zzr, that explanation was top notch, had to read a couple of times but now I get it.......
 
What type of free wheel hubs are they most can be stripped quite easily to see if they are engaging / service. Lots of info around.
 
just as an aside am I correct in thinking that there is jack all point in fwh if they don't improve mpg except maybe as a step up when you want to get on the bonnet to hook the tilt into the sharks teeth
 
I have them and confirm that I get 1-2mpg improvement on rural/urban type driving - not much but worthwhile. I've never tried it on the motorway.

This isn't just some hand wavy bollox (like most mpg claims) I've monitored every it over about 15,000 miles both with and without FWH.

However, the more interesting thing about FWHs is that a while ago I did some speed tests (as part of setting up carbs and timing) and tried 0-40mph with and without FWH's, and there was a real difference (of about 1 second IIRC), I'll find the figures if anyone's interested.

Also, I find that things are quieter with less vibration in the cab with them disengaged...
 
dominicbeesley said:
I have them and confirm that I get 1-2mpg improvement on rural/urban type driving - not much but worthwhile. I've never tried it on the motorway.

This isn't just some hand wavy bollox (like most mpg claims) I've monitored every it over about 15,000 miles both with and without FWH.

However, the more interesting thing about FWHs is that a while ago I did some speed tests (as part of setting up carbs and timing) and tried 0-40mph with and without FWH's, and there was a real difference (of about 1 second IIRC), I'll find the figures if anyone's interested.

Also, I find that things are quieter with less vibration in the cab with them disengaged...
Click to expand...

Come down to London/South East and join our wonderful rural/urban mobile car parks, you'll be lucky to average 10 mph in London traffic at times.

I never noticed any difference on fuel usage, my most economical Series was my 2a/3 109 Station Wagon. I re-built it from the chassis up, rover V8, 3.9 to 1 diffs and an overdrive unit
 
zzr1200 said:
my most economical Series was my 2a/3 109 Station Wagon. I re-built it from the chassis up, rover V8, 3.9 to 1 diffs and an overdrive unit
Click to expand...

i've always figured that would be the most economical gearing/power plant if staying with spark ignition engines, tempted to go that way someday with a 109 and strap a couple of lpg tanks underneath
 
NiteMare said:
i've always figured that would be the most economical gearing/power plant if staying with spark ignition engines, tempted to go that way someday with a 109 and strap a couple of lpg tanks underneath
Click to expand...

Locating a pair of 3.9 ratio diff's could be a problem these days, wasn't a problem 20+ years ago. You'd better start searching now and be prepared to rebuild them, if you find any.
 
Blackburn said:
What type of free wheel hubs are they most can be stripped quite easily to see if they are engaging / service. Lots of info around.
Click to expand...

Hi, sorry for the late response but not been about for a few days.

These are AVM hubs, but don't look anything like the ones available today so guessing they are quite old!

The spring mechanism has corroded quite badly on the one side and I cannot seem to find any replacements for them. All that seems available is the basic maintenance set that includes a few gaskets.

I am not fussed about swapping them over to standard members, think the only time they would get used is to step on when checking the points gap!:D

Cheers

Adie
 
Morning all,

Its taken a few weeks but finally got to play last night! Removed the FWH's and replaced with standard hubs.

Jacked up one front wheel..... in 2wd the wheel spins freely, and in 4 wd....... it turns a quarter of a turn then locks! :clap2::clap2::clap2:

I am therefore assuming that its job done!

Thanks to everyone for your time and answers.

Adie
 
Hiya all

I am going to take the hubs to work to clean up and inspect to see how bad they are. I know that there are springs there that have completely rotted away so its a case of how serviceable they will be.

Not getting much time to play lately with work commitments hence the time between responses :(

As for the misfire, I am sure its a mixture between timing and the fuel metering. I need to get a strobe back on there and see where its set at. I am pretty confident the dwell angle is ok as I have checked it with a meter so hopefully its just a case of getting the mixture and timing right. Trouble with the timing is knowing where to put it! Seen so many different suggestions its hard to know what to go with.

cheers all

Adie
 
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