TDCI oil filter/service kit

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VinceVL

New Member
Posts
5
Location
Belgium
Hi everyone,

I am new to this forum but I have been reading some posts for the last weeks.

My dad owns a 2012 land rover defender 130 (I live in belgium, but don't mind ordering from UK sites).

We are disapointed in our local dealership as they charge hundreds of euro's for an oil and filter change.
And didn't even bother to check the oil level when we brought the car in for a 1700 euro maintenace.

Since then we have been looking into changing the fluids and filters ourselves but I have a couple of questions.
My dad and I have never done this so I am not sure where to get the right parts. We don't mind paying 90 quid for a genuine service kit so cost isn't really the issue.

I am just wondering where should I get the kit? I have looked at Craddock, LRdirect, bearmach and don't know where to buy.

So I have 3 questions:
-I know this is subjective but what is the best place to get a GENUINE service kit? (oil, fuel, cabin air filter....)

-And I have read the wikipedia page but would like some confirmation since I have never done this.
They've made land rovers for a very long time and there are many engines and variants. But is the 2012 model also know as the Puma? And does that have the 2.2 (Ford duratorq?) tdci? Or have I scrambled information?

-I'll just buy the oil type they state in the manual from a normal brand (like castrol?). Or is the oil spec not the only thing I should pay attention to? (Could the dealer have been using natural or synthetic and would this create problems if i use the other type.)

I don't know too much about the maintenance history since the dealer has a shiny floor and expensive couches but doesn't really do much.

This might seem like a stupid question to the land rover veterans but I am new to this.

Thanks in advance!
 
The diesel engine is the 2.2 tdci which is a ford Puma engine. The engine oil must be fully synthetic 5W-30. A mineral oil will wreck the engine rapidly. It has to meet the ford specification (adopted by JLR using a different numbering to ford). I have a preference for Comma oil and will attach the latest spec and letter from ford confirming suitability. I have been using Comma X-tech while my stash lasted but from next change will be using Comma Ecolife 5w-30 as per attachments, apparently a recent upgrade for vehicles with DPF. I get my oil mostly from Opie in Cornwall, they sell on eBay. Oil and air filters I get from Eurocarparts and always try to get Mann or Mahle. Genuine fuel filter part number WJ1500040 can be found on eBay for about £35 (cost considerably more if you get one from a main dealer). I would not personally use an aftermarket brand fuel filter. I started a thread lower down this page on changing the filter.
When you change the oil, check the sump drain plug which has a rubber seal fitted. You can usually get a few re-uses on it if the rubber seal is good, otherwise change it. Also if you have a workshop or Haynes manual, note that they have an error in the torque setting for the oil filter cover. It cannot be torqued to the stated value and needs to be at 19 ft lbs. (there is a value imprinted on the cover (from memory 27Nm which is about 19 ft lbs).
If you change the transfer box oil, note the filler plug is NOT a level plug like on other land rovers (Haynes manual is wrong on this) and the correct volume of oil has to be measured in.
Hope this all helps.
 

Attachments

  • ECOLIFE 5:30.pdf
    525.9 KB · Views: 315
  • Ford Acknowledgement Letter Comma Xtech 913-D WEB .pdf
    2.3 MB · Views: 313
The diesel engine is the 2.2 tdci which is a ford Puma engine. The engine oil must be fully synthetic 5W-30. A mineral oil will wreck the engine rapidly. It has to meet the ford specification (adopted by JLR using a different numbering to ford). I have a preference for Comma oil and will attach the latest spec and letter from ford confirming suitability. I have been using Comma X-tech while my stash lasted but from next change will be using Comma Ecolife 5w-30 as per attachments, apparently a recent upgrade for vehicles with DPF. I get my oil mostly from Opie in Cornwall, they sell on eBay. Oil and air filters I get from Eurocarparts and always try to get Mann or Mahle. Genuine fuel filter part number WJ1500040 can be found on eBay for about £35 (cost considerably more if you get one from a main dealer). I would not personally use an aftermarket brand fuel filter. I started a thread lower down this page on changing the filter.
When you change the oil, check the sump drain plug which has a rubber seal fitted. You can usually get a few re-uses on it if the rubber seal is good, otherwise change it. Also if you have a workshop or Haynes manual, note that they have an error in the torque setting for the oil filter cover. It cannot be torqued to the stated value and needs to be at 19 ft lbs. (there is a value imprinted on the cover (from memory 27Nm which is about 19 ft lbs).
If you change the transfer box oil, note the filler plug is NOT a level plug like on other land rovers (Haynes manual is wrong on this) and the correct volume of oil has to be measured in.
Hope this all helps.

Hi, Thank you very much for the info.

Your explanation and documentation look very promising. I will have a closer look at it tomorrow and will keep you updated.
 
I have a thread on page 2 of this forum on resetting the "oil service" message which will show itself at some time.
 
Page attached from the Land Rover workshop manual, with the oil specifications for vehicles with and without dpf fitted. These are Ford specifications adopted by Land Rover. I have also noted in my book that a later ford spec WSS M2C913-D is suitable for vehicles with dpf. Whichever oil you choose it needs to meet these specs.
 

Attachments

  • Defender MY12 Workshop Manual (dragged).pdf
    41 KB · Views: 416
The diesel engine is the 2.2 tdci which is a ford Puma engine. The engine oil must be fully synthetic 5W-30. A mineral oil will wreck the engine rapidly. It has to meet the ford specification (adopted by JLR using a different numbering to ford). I have a preference for Comma oil and will attach the latest spec and letter from ford confirming suitability. I have been using Comma X-tech while my stash lasted but from next change will be using Comma Ecolife 5w-30 as per attachments, apparently a recent upgrade for vehicles with DPF. I get my oil mostly from Opie in Cornwall, they sell on eBay. Oil and air filters I get from Eurocarparts and always try to get Mann or Mahle. Genuine fuel filter part number WJ1500040 can be found on eBay for about £35 (cost considerably more if you get one from a main dealer). I would not personally use an aftermarket brand fuel filter. I started a thread lower down this page on changing the filter.
When you change the oil, check the sump drain plug which has a rubber seal fitted. You can usually get a few re-uses on it if the rubber seal is good, otherwise change it. Also if you have a workshop or Haynes manual, note that they have an error in the torque setting for the oil filter cover. It cannot be torqued to the stated value and needs to be at 19 ft lbs. (there is a value imprinted on the cover (from memory 27Nm which is about 19 ft lbs).
If you change the transfer box oil, note the filler plug is NOT a level plug like on other land rovers (Haynes manual is wrong on this) and the correct volume of oil has to be measured in.
Hope this all helps.
Hi, I've taken a look at the eurocarparts website and their filter doesn't appear to be from mann or mahle? It says ADL Blueprint. But I am more interested in genuine only parts So do you know where to get those?

Thanks.
 
Just had a look on eurocarparts, they list Crosland, Fram, Bosch and Mann oil filters. If you want one with Land Rover on it you will need to go to a main dealer.
 
Just had a look on eurocarparts, they list Crosland, Fram, Bosch and Mann oil filters. If you want one with Land Rover on it you will need to go to a main dealer.
Oh I'm sorry i see what you're talking about. But i've heard some of the puma's have got the filament type filters (like the paper ones) and others have the screw on style one. Is that true, and how do i see which one I have?
 
Is that true, and how do i see which one I have?
The filter is located on the right (viewed from the front) lower rear of the engine. A screw on canister filter will be obvious. The filament type is housed in a plastic bowl with a hexagon on the bottom (for spannering). This is the one which needs torquing up to 19 ft lbs. While I remember, when you take the sump plug out the oil (7 litres of it) will shoot out horizontally all over your floor or up your sleeve. Take precautions ;)
 
The filter is located on the right (viewed from the front) lower rear of the engine. A screw on canister filter will be obvious. The filament type is housed in a plastic bowl with a hexagon on the bottom (for spannering). This is the one which needs torquing up to 19 ft lbs. While I remember, when you take the sump plug out the oil (7 litres of it) will shoot out horizontally all over your floor or up your sleeve. Take precautions ;)
I'll have a look at the filter tomorrow, I have been busy with school the last days. I'm sorry about the slight delay.
 
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