td6 Injectors

haha, ok I will look into it! Is there evidence to say that EGV valves actually shorten the life on the engine?
What happens to the other pipes?
Also quick one for anyone- if td6 injectors are not coded- does this mean I can buy any injector e.g BMW, freelander, td6 injector for it?

KernowSam said:

haha, ok I will look into it! Is there evidence to say that EGV valves actually shorten the life on the engine?
What happens to the other pipes?
Also quick one for anyone- if td6 injectors are not coded- does this mean I can buy any injector e.g BMW, freelander, td6 injector for it?

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LOL

not sure mate, but im sure they done help it at all !

you thought the EGR was filthy, what about the rest of the manifold after the EGR ?

the bypass simply replaces the EGR like for like. and inside it blanks off the exhaust feed thus stopping the crap entering the engine...

some people believe the same result can be had by sticking a penny inside the exhaust inlet to the EGR, blocking it off that way...

but im a believer in doing things properly so i got the proper bypass valve..

takes 10 mins to fit and you will notice a slight improvement on MPG and low down torque.

regarding the injectors... as long as there the same then you should be able to fit them...

not sure if the freelander uses the same ones... but as i said before... a mate of mine fitted some off a BMW x5 into his L322 and they worked fine

linky to a nice stainless bypass..

EGR Range Rover TD6 (L322) EGR BYPASS KIT Stainless Steell | eBay

dont know if your ever saw my post...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/l322-td6-egr-bypass-157451.html

The Bosch part numbers have to be the same that's written on top of injectors,and should be fine,best just to get yours recon if you find them faulty,buying second hand ones not such a good idea ,might be just as bad as the originals unless from a known good engine.

2.0_hippo said:

linky to a nice stainless bypass..

EGR Range Rover TD6 (L322) EGR BYPASS KIT Stainless Steell | eBay

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EGR bypass is a waste of time and cash, just disable the valve, if it's vacuum operated like the P38 you just need to take off the vacuum feed to the diaphragm. Total cost £0 and you can put it back for the MOT if needed

thanks ellis and thanks keith.
I am presuming the thin tube which slides onto the egr valve is the vaccuum supply? Why might it need connecting for the MOT? Would it increase my emmissions? I can't imagine them taking all the covers off during the MOT

So what about the chunky internals of the EGR valve that cuts down the air flow ? Isn't it good to get rid of this ?

KernowSam said:

thanks ellis and thanks keith.
I am presuming the thin tube which slides onto the egr valve is the vaccuum supply? Why might it need connecting for the MOT? Would it increase my emmissions? I can't imagine them taking all the covers off during the MOT

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It doesn't effect the emissions.. Mine has passed fine since bypassing.

You can't even see the EGR valve without removing the engine covers !

2.0_hippo said:

So what about the chunky internals of the EGR valve that cuts down the air flow ? Isn't it good to get rid of this ?

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With a Turbo pressurising the manifold, the minimal intrusion of the EGR is going to make no noticeable difference unless you going to try and get 600bhp out of it

Datatek said:

With a Turbo pressurising the manifold, the minimal intrusion of the EGR is going to make no noticeable difference unless you going to try and get 600bhp out of it

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You say that ...

Then why is there better MPG and slight better rev pick up when the EGR is gone ?

Or is it because the air is cleaner without the exhausts mixing anymore ?

2.0_hippo said:

You say that ...

Then why is there better MPG and slight better rev pick up when the EGR is gone ?

Or is it because the air is cleaner without the exhausts mixing anymore ?

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Removing or disabling the EGR amounts to the same thing, you are not filling the engine with ****e under certain conditions. Better rev pick up after removal, may be due to the valve being gunged up and not closing fully, once cleaned and fully closed if it no longer opens it should give no trouble.
I'm of the opinion that EGR shortens engine life.

2.0_hippo said:

You say that ...

Then why is there better MPG and slight better rev pick up when the EGR is gone ?

Or is it because the air is cleaner without the exhausts mixing anymore ?

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Egr = exhaust gass recycling
What's the idea of having a inter cooler ? To cool turbo charged air as it is het up while being compressed by the turbo the cooler the air the more dense the air the denser the air is the more you can fit in more air + more fuel = more power
If you recycle hot exhaust gass it partially defeats the point if having a inter cooler. It's for emissions nothing else

Blank it of lol

SJF said:

Egr = exhaust gass recycling
What's the idea of having a inter cooler ? To cool turbo charged air as it is het up while being compressed by the turbo the cooler the air the more dense the air the denser the air is the more you can fit in more air + more fuel = more power
If you recycle hot exhaust gass it partially defeats the point if having a inter cooler. It's for emissions nothing else

Blank it of lol

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too right....


noticed that since removing the EGR the exhaust system runs a lot cleaner... Ie no more soot when booting it..

noticed that on my freelander too..

how can a sooty exhaust be better for emmisions ! LOL

2.0_hippo said:

too right....


noticed that since removing the EGR the exhaust system runs a lot cleaner... Ie no more soot when booting it..

noticed that on my freelander too..

how can a sooty exhaust be better for emmisions ! LOL

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They probably weren't worried about soot at that stage, egr is for reducing NOx from exhaust emissions. If its anything like tractor and lorry emissions, they worried about the excess soot produced from this "cleaner" combustion at the next stage, by adding a particulate filter(DPF).

This DPF is the main reason why modern diesels don't like short runs, as the DPF only regenerates itself when the engine is working hard and up to operating temperature.

By bypassing the EGR valve, you are effectively turning your engine into what I would describe as a euro 2 engine, NOx emissions reduced by injection timing and not by EGR. Non EGR engines also run slightly hotter as it is more efficient combustion, which also would explain your increased MPG.

Right, finally had a day free to do this leak off test.
So I unplug each injector plug, move the wiring out the way, then start to take off all of the leak back connectors attached to the braided hose. Pull the last one off (injector no.6) and realise that half the connector has broken off inside the hole- great!
Anyway got that out and did a leak off test. Quite clearly it is injector number 2 which is playing up, almost twice the amount of fuel getting expelled compared to the others.

So the question is- where can I get a replacement plastic connector for injector 6 of the braided fuel return hose? The joys of motoring hey!

I think I will take the car to my local injector shop- tell then that i would like injector number 2 reconditioned, and fitted. Hopefully this should solve the lumpy ride!

Injectors can sometimes be stuck good ,if seals been leaking a bit,but give it a go ,might just pull right out,as for the plastic union BMW will probably be easiest save going around scrappys but I'm sure all Bosch common rail injectors use the same kind of union,a recon injector will probably cost about £120,remember to clean out sealing face and use new copper washer.

Found one- LEAK OFF PIPE CONNECTOR. 90 DEGREE. BOSCH COMMON RAIL DIESEL INJECTORS. KIT | eBay

Now I cannot drive the car until that arrives!

I may be being stupid, but how do you actually remove the injector, does the grey connector which the plug goes into come off?

Im Sure you need to remove inlet manifold,undo the injector pipe at both ends and remove it,take off the multiplugs on top of injector ,leak off pipe,take off the bolts holding injector bracket,pull the injector upwards and twist it a little back and forward,you may need to use a lever bar under an appropriate part of the injector and lightly lever upwards (usually under the threaded part where the pipe bolts on)as you are twisting it,avoid damaging the threads,not to much force as you may well break the rocker cover,hopefully it will slide right out,do not lever against the grey plastic part at top of injector,once removed if copper washer is still in the hole,use a large flat blade screwdriver and stick it into centre off washer and it should grip it enough as lift it out,clean the seated area very good,making sure any crap doesn't fall into cylinder,always use a new copper washer,refit reverse of removal.simple enough to do.this method has always worked out fine for me,good luck