TD5 Hard Starting

1988smithy · Sep 18, 2023

JockHiltz said:
I noticed it was pretty noisy when I put it in....I feel like it was a britpart.

Any suppliers you recommend that ship international besides LR Direct?

Can you hear it running steady on ignition 2? Should be a nice steady buzz, no squeals or interruptions

JockHiltz · Sep 19, 2023

1988smithy said:
Can you hear it running steady on ignition 2? Should be a nice steady buzz, no squeals or interruptions

you hear it when you first turn the key back before starting... then while running its a steady hum

1988smithy · Sep 19, 2023

JockHiltz said:
you hear it when you first turn the key back before starting... then while running its a steady hum

Pump sounds ok then mate

JockHiltz · Sep 22, 2023

KISSMYAURA said:
also check the housing, it has a few things in it worth checking, red one way valve a a gauze thingy. 13 and 14 The o rings perish as well

View attachment 298170

I replaced the fuel filter with no joy, but having more issues with loss of power now... quick question.... number 13 and 14 they are not on the other side of the filter as well? do you have to have the part umbers on hand?

KISSMYAURA · Sep 22, 2023

look on www.lrworkshop.com for part numbers

one is a red rubber flappy thing its a one way valve, (13) goes closest to the chassis the white one (14) is the air bleed valve which fits into the end of (5) BOTH are only on the tank side fo the filter.

KISSMYAURA · Sep 22, 2023

This may help get your head around the fuel flow journey, one way valve on tank (LEFT) side flowing into filter, air bleed on tank side (LEFT) on rtn to tank via 9

KISSMYAURA · Sep 22, 2023

13 is fuel pressure relief valve which would be next on my list after the filter valves

JockHiltz · Sep 23, 2023

KISSMYAURA said:
13 is fuel pressure relief valve which would be next on my list after the filter valves

thanks for all this! Looks like my loss of power may have been from a sticky break caliber

.... but it's still starting hard. Its weird because I had some fuel issues over the winter like this and the same caliber stuck, but never stuck agin since until now having more fuel issues

JockHiltz · Sep 23, 2023

KISSMYAURA said:
look on www.lrworkshop.com for part numbers

one is a red rubber flappy thing its a one way valve, (13) goes closest to the chassis the white one (14) is the air bleed valve which fits into the end of (5) BOTH are only on the tank side fo the filter.

View attachment 298440

View attachment 298438 View attachment 298439

This is what comes up with the non return valve part number... it this just in inner bits?

Def90man · Sep 23, 2023

JockHiltz said:
This is what comes up with the non return valve part number... it this just in inner bits?

View attachment 298472

When I had starting issues I checked the non return valve and it was missing. I bought this

And it fits in the end of the pipe like in post #25 above

KISSMYAURA · Sep 23, 2023

JockHiltz said:
This is what comes up with the non return valve part number... it this just in inner bits?

View attachment 298472

Part number here look at suppliers from lr workshop avoid britpart!

Discodevon · Oct 4, 2023

If you rely on this vehicle and intend on keeping it, if anything to do with the housing is suspect just change the complete housing inc the bolts which bolt it onto the chassis

JockHiltz · Oct 5, 2023

Discodevon said:
If you rely on this vehicle and intend on keeping it, if anything to do with the housing is suspect just change the complete housing inc the bolts which bolt it onto the chassis

JockHiltz · Oct 5, 2023

Thanks... they go often?

KISSMYAURA · Oct 5, 2023

JockHiltz said:
Thanks... they go often?

once in the liftime around 80-120K miles seems to be average. but depends on environment near the sea half that etc I see you are in Car Na Daaa, which is pretty harsh, dont know if they use salt on the roads etc but it kills under car componants, stupid place to put the fuel filter if you ask me, right next to the rear wheel, some have relocated it but its a faff to do so. You can fabricate a better guard for it but it still gets hammered, its basically getting jet washed with salty water grit everytime you drive it

KISSMYAURA · Oct 5, 2023

watch watch this....

JockHiltz · Oct 5, 2023

KISSMYAURA said:
once in the liftime around 80-120K miles seems to be average. but depends on environment near the sea half that etc I see you are in Car Na Daaa, which is pretty harsh, dont know if they use salt on the roads etc but it kills under car componants, stupid place to put the fuel filter if you ask me, right next to the rear wheel, some have relocated it but its a faff to do so. You can fabricate a better guard for it but it still gets hammered, its basically getting jet washed with salty water grit everytime you drive it

hahaha, yeah, we seem to like to use salt on our roads...I usually undercoat my vehicles twice a year... but still only slows down the inevitable... with that said, my 90 was imported from southern Italy about 3 years ago and has about 170km on it... I have have the non return valve and air bleed valve in the post now... if that doesn't help the housing it will be.

and yes, stupid location for a fuel filter... I like the easy access but its just getting nailed with road salt and weather.

KISSMYAURA · Oct 5, 2023

JockHiltz said:
hahaha, yeah, we seem to like to use salt on our roads...I usually undercoat my vehicles twice a year... but still only slows down the inevitable... with that said, my 90 was imported from southern Italy about 3 years ago and has about 170km on it... I have have the non return valve and air bleed valve in the post now... if that doesn't help the housing it will be.

and yes, stupid location for a fuel filter... I like the easy access but its just getting nailed with road salt and weather.

If you buy a housing it does not always come with the nozzels / fittings just be aware. The best thing to do if you cant be bothered relocting the thing, is to use a bit of plastic / inner arch stuff to just ensure the worst of the spray from the wheels is kept away from it. Also a liberal coating of waxoyl / dinatrol is usefull across all of it, makes a messy job when it comes to replacement but you dont do it that often so worth it,

KISSMYAURA · Oct 5, 2023

KISSMYAURA said:
If you buy a housing it does not always come with the nozzels / fittings just be aware. The best thing to do if you cant be bothered relocting the thing, is to use a bit of plastic / inner arch stuff to just ensure the worst of the spray from the wheels is kept away from it. Also a liberal coating of waxoyl / dinatrol is usefull across all of it, makes a messy job when it comes to replacement but you dont do it that often so worth it,

does your one have the cover? often find its missing,

JockHiltz · Oct 5, 2023

KISSMYAURA said:
If you buy a housing it does not always come with the nozzels / fittings just be aware. The best thing to do if you cant be bothered relocting the thing, is to use a bit of plastic / inner arch stuff to just ensure the worst of the spray from the wheels is kept away from it. Also a liberal coating of waxoyl / dinatrol is usefull across all of it, makes a messy job when it comes to replacement but you dont do it that often so worth it,

good to know.... and yes, we have a product called fluid film.... it coats and creeps to protect the metal...

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