TD5 engine running on breakdown

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We also bought a TD5 Defender about ten weeks ago from a private seller.
Vehicle seemed fine, but it was a
14 year old Land Rover on 100,000 miles....l had budgeted around £1500 to sort out issues but that was soon blown.

Minor rear bodywork rectification turned into a rear panel respray/new rear door and a bill for £1,000
Poor hot starting came to £825. (New injector seals, diesel filter housing, starter motor and battery) Transmission play meant two driveshafts and four drive members.
The clutch seemed fine but the missus reported it obstructive when hot....another £900 for a new clutch and flywheel.
Rear discs were at the end of their life, so they were replaced along with brake pads.
Add to that a new alarm (it wasn’t working) new front bumper, new front seats, replacement of the useless stereo and crap rear speakers, front/rear diff oil seal replacement, new aircon condenser (£400), spare wheel carrier, clutch assist spring kit, side steps (none were fitted)
Plus sundry other bits and pieces

And l’ve got no money left at all
 
Last edited:
lightning said:
We also bought a TD5 Defender about ten weeks ago from a private seller.
Vehicle seemed fine, but it was a
14 year old Land Rover on 100,000 miles....l had budgeted around £1500 to sort out issues but that was soon blown.

Minor rear bodywork rectification turned into a rear panel respray/new rear door and a bill for £1,000
Poor hot starting came to £825. (New injector seals, diesel filter housing, starter motor and battery) Transmission play meant two driveshafts and four drive members.
The clutch seemed fine but the missus reported it obstructive when hot....another £900 for a new clutch and flywheel.
Rear discs were at the end of their life, so they were replaced along with brake pads.
Add to that a new alarm (it wasn’t working) new front bumper, new front seats, replacement of the useless stereo and crap rear speakers, front/rear diff oil seal replacement, new aircon condenser (£400), spare wheel carrier, clutch assist spring kit, side steps (none were fitted)
Plus sundry other bits and pieces

And l’ve got no money left at all
Click to expand...

You need to find a different garage.
 
Beneagles said:
Fair range of TD5's available from the usual sources - prices from a couple of hundred to a couple of thousand!:eek:
This ad caught my eye:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...371301?hash=item2f3870ace5:g:zQMAAOSww31duGuQ
I have no connection to them, and no experience of using them...but they talk a good deal :)
Seems they can either redo your existing engine, or offer a replacement.
:(
Click to expand...

I hope this midlands based garage have no connection with this midlands based garage:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...rt-reconditioning.339591/page-14#post-4733418

Personally I'd use a garage local to you, preferably that has good reviews from friends.
 
lightning said:
We also bought a TD5 Defender about ten weeks ago from a private seller.
Vehicle seemed fine, but it was a
14 year old Land Rover on 100,000 miles....l had budgeted around £1500 to sort out issues but that was soon blown.

Minor rear bodywork rectification turned into a rear panel respray/new rear door and a bill for £1,000
Poor hot starting came to £825. (New injector seals, diesel filter housing, starter motor and battery) Transmission play meant two driveshafts and four drive members.
The clutch seemed fine but the missus reported it obstructive when hot....another £900 for a new clutch and flywheel.
Rear discs were at the end of their life, so they were replaced along with brake pads.
Add to that a new alarm (it wasn’t working) new front bumper, new front seats, replacement of the useless stereo and crap rear speakers, front/rear diff oil seal replacement, new aircon condenser (£400), spare wheel carrier, clutch assist spring kit, side steps (none were fitted)
Plus sundry other bits and pieces

And l’ve got no money left at all
Click to expand...
Mine has 148 k on the clock, 18 yrs old. I had a list of work required when I agreed the purchase. That came off the asking price, in addition to oil changes throughout, I did the offside swivel joint, I missed it on inspection and should have jacked up the front end to give it a tug.
I have door repair profiles on hand and was looking to do all four doors in the new year. The engine failure is just a PITA.
Must be a High Peak thing.
 
nobber said:
You need to find a different garage.
Click to expand...

They were the best quotes for the work

One place wanted £2,000 to do the bodywork and that was the best quote for the clutch
The starting issue was different, couldn’t find any other garages prepared to take it on

And the rest of the work l did myself.

The Landy was around £4,000 cheaper than similar vehicles we had seen at LR specialist dealers.
 
Lurk said:
Well, to be honest the length of time it ran on for felt ages as I thrashed about trying to stop it. In reality I think if it was more than a minute maybe two I would be surprised. The sump was full of oil/ diesel (according to mechanic) so it didn’t run out. It may have been running on fuel from the injectors but the alarm cut that off and maybe not quite up to self destruct mode so spluttered our ? Dunno. Part of me thinks the head gasket has blown which could explain the coolant dump and small oil dump.
I’m no diesel mechanic. I can rebuild a toolmakers lathe to super fine tolerance but car mechanics is a new chapter for me.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the head gasket has let go during the brief run away.
Don't know much about the TD5, but from what I've read you can get a crack in the head, near to an injector, this can allow diesel to run in to the oil and fill the sump. I'm not sure if this allows uncontrolled diesel in to the cylinders (or one cylinder nearest crack) causing the run away. Or, diesel in the oil causes it to get through the turbo rings a bit and get blown in to the induction manifold causing a runaway. My first port of call would be to take the injectors out and look for a crack. Apparently, they can be quite visible sometimes. You can weld them, but it's a bit of a specialised job. I think the head has to be heated first. But they are fixable, so a head repair might be all you need if you are lucky. Obviously, you'll need to check the turbo.
 
Al2O3 said:
Sounds like the head gasket has let go during the brief run away.
Don't know much about the TD5, but from what I've read you can get a crack in the head, near to an injector, this can allow diesel to run in to the oil and fill the sump. I'm not sure if this allows uncontrolled diesel in to the cylinders (or one cylinder nearest crack) causing the run away. Or, diesel in the oil causes it to get through the turbo rings a bit and get blown in to the induction manifold causing a runaway. My first port of call would be to take the injectors out and look for a crack. Apparently, they can be quite visible sometimes. You can weld them, but it's a bit of a specialised job. I think the head has to be heated first. But they are fixable, so a head repair might be all you need if you are lucky. Obviously, you'll need to check the turbo.
Click to expand...
I’ve spent most of today researching TD5 fuel in oil issues. At least now I know what I’m looking for with respect head cracks. Can’t determine how to check the turbo for issues. Also read that the lower engine block bearings can exhibit premature wear with the fuel oil issue if it’s been building for a while.
Will have to take a view on that next week. Not quite as depressed today about it as I understand a bit more about what’s involved.
 
Lurk said:
I’ve spent most of today researching TD5 fuel in oil issues. At least now I know what I’m looking for with respect head cracks. Can’t determine how to check the turbo for issues. Also read that the lower engine block bearings can exhibit premature wear with the fuel oil issue if it’s been building for a while.
Will have to take a view on that next week. Not quite as depressed today about it as I understand a bit more about what’s involved.
Click to expand...
I think diesel in the oil will not do any of the bearings any good. Will depend on how much has been in there and for how long. You do read about TD5 owners oil levels going up, but they don't always mention changing bearing shells. I think I would get the head checked and if cracked get it repaired and put it back together. I'd then see what the oil pressure is like. If the oil pressure is ok I think I'd just run it. If the bearing are shot the oil pressure will be probably be low.
Check the intercooler pipes in to and out of the intercooler for signs of oil to see if the turbo has been passing any.
 
By way of an update.
I’ve decided to cut my loses and replace the engine. Hell of a financial hit as I want to know it’s replacement is going to be 100% reliable for at least a few years.
Any views on what else to do while swapping the units ?
Have committed to a new clutch and slave cylinder, injector loom main belt . Unsure about the turbo and exhaust manifold at this stage. Am going to see if I can get them off ahead of the swap so I can skim the manifold face and look over the turbo recartridge if necessary.
Any advice appreciated
The swaps going to be in Jan. Which leaves me without a motor until then ☹️
 
That’s bad luck but at least there’s a solution.
How much did you pay for the 110? The new engine etc should increase the value.
 
the 110 was £9 k. I’ve put a further £1k in it with rear springs shockers, mid crossmember, front swivel, full set door hinges and security mods. At the minute a new remanufactured unit is running at £7 k installed. Which blows my budget I had earmarked for the interior and general funeral expenses down the line ☹️
 
I didn’t realise it cost that much to replace a TD5
I would be tempted to fit a warranted used engine, they are good for 200,000 miles plus
Maybe get the garage to source the engine and then you’ll be covered in the event of any problems.
Many Discovery TD5’s are scrapped due to corrosion and the engine still fine.
 
Lurk said:
By way of an update.
I’ve decided to cut my loses and replace the engine. Hell of a financial hit as I want to know it’s replacement is going to be 100% reliable for at least a few years.
Any views on what else to do while swapping the units ?
Have committed to a new clutch and slave cylinder, injector loom main belt . Unsure about the turbo and exhaust manifold at this stage. Am going to see if I can get them off ahead of the swap so I can skim the manifold face and look over the turbo recartridge if necessary.
Any advice appreciated
The swaps going to be in Jan. Which leaves me without a motor until then ☹️
Click to expand...
Why?
 
Im aiming for a 'Re- manufactured unit' so effectively a new engine - then I know what Ive got and can look after it. Ive spent a lot of time looking through the options and concluded this to be the best option for me providing I keep hold of the motor long term.
My reason for going this route is down to not being able rebuild the engine myself (no garage I can get to with an engine hoist & my workshop being full of two machine tools part rebuilt), used engines - not convinced I could locate a good condition unit and extract it and install it with much of a saving over 'new' and Ive still got a used engine with 'suspect history'. The head of the now defunct TD5 was the original - a new power unit has the spannish made head with ascociated mods to prevent cracking around injectors. A strip and rebuild of the old engine at the local garages was going to take a substantial amount of man hours which they dont have available (not keen either).
Not how I wanted to spend my Christmas (without a car), on the other hand I can get on with rebuilding the machine tools in the workshop and get some place back.
 
Have you ever used Hallam Brothers in Hayfield? I have found them to be really good and certainly know about Defenders
 
lightning said:
Have you ever used Hallam Brothers in Hayfield? I have found them to be really good and certainly know about Defenders
Click to expand...
I’ve never used them, which is daft as I’ve been here twenty years and landrovers for most of that time. I used to use HighPeak4x4 until I got fed up with Winston and then they shut up shop overnight. For the last ten years I’ve been using Karl woods garage in Chapel but then Karl sold up and my car followed his best mechanic who set up next to Marslands Chassis.
 
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