Freelander 1 TD4 missfire 2000 revs

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RoverJames

Member
Posts
11
Location
Stoke on Trent
At this point we have had our "delightful" TD4 freelander 1 2006 for just shy of 2 years. In that time it has made it its mission in life to bankrupt me, annoy me, and waste my time. So in a final effort before forking out ungodly amounts of money... again, i have a misfire that im struggling to narrow down the causes of and would appreciate some help

The backstory, bought it (£2250), ran it for about 5k miles, then started to get a misfire and white smoke when cold, took it to a specialist (£500 quid plus), replaced inj 2, sorted, a month later same again, same cylinder, replaced again, a week later same again, 2 again, so inj 1 into inj 2's hole, and a new one into inj1, a week later inj1 went down. Again this time replaced but with a known good one.... off a scrapper. ran for a month, then misfire came back, replaced 1 and a slightly suspect 3 again for "good" ones off scrapper. ran okay for a month then slowly misfire at cold and white smoke creeping in. But when warmed up ran relatively okay some days, others really underpower but very changeable power but smooth when warm. Then the inevitable and seemingly unavoidable IRD death happened, the front diff died (a little different to the standard way to die, but still, same result), so new IRD and VCU and bearings etc (£1000 plus £1700 fitting and mot and mot work plus £250 tyres) and we are back on the road......

THE ISSUE: ...but in the few months that elapsed without it the slight misfire when cold is now a large misfire especially bad when cold but all the time. Hills are a challenge, mild inclines are a challenge, after a good brew im sure i could be burned off the line by my nan with her zimmer frame! (especially bad as she has been dead for a number of years now). The misfire is at about 2k and continues to just over 3k, where it does run better some times, but if you lift off and drop the cutch immediately after full throttle, it will lift the revs dramatically for a brief moment. Its far worse cold and is accompanied by white smoke when cold. You can hear the misfire, its lumpy and well down on power.

-Ive checked the vac lines, all look good, a little confusing in routing, but good condition.
-Hoses looks okay, as does all wiring,
-Ive tried a new part loom to the injectors, no change
-There is some oil in the inlet pipes, but im lead to believe this is normalish.
-My maf, temp, throttle and load figures all match up there or there abouts to Dr googles. however my MAP is reading 99 on idle and on part throttle drops to 98, at 4krpm its 102 which is a little low as Dr google recons it should be 130 ish at 4k. But is this a big deal? can it cause me these issues so dramatically?

Out of ideas really, but over £5k deep in a £3k at best car.... loosing the love for it and feeling wounded to keep paying out. Which is annoying as in the brief fleeting moments between all of this in which its ran well, its a lovely driving car, really versatile and useful, comfortable, semi luxuries, kind of economical, and stunningly good in snow... as in moor roads with a good few feet, other 4x4s stuck and i go past like its a normal day good in snow. I would not be persevering if it wasn't so good when it works.... Just let down by the worst reliability of any car ever! So.... rant over, Any ideas? :D (Im not allowed matches near it... so don't suggest)
 
Any ideas?

I suggest you find someone who's not going to rip you off.

£500 for a single injector is bad enough, but £1700 labour for less than 5 hours work changing an IRD is plain daylight rubbery. :eek::eek:

As for the misfire, it's not sounding like the normal 2k misfire these engines can suffer. The normal 2k misfire only happens when hot, and under a light or trailing throttle.
 
They could not have been a specialist otherwise you FL1 would be running fine, how did they diagnose it was the injectors first time round, and why keep swapping out injectors if it did not solve it the first time, the so-called specialist as wiped your eyeballs.
Find some who will do you a full leak back test, get it on a T4 if you can, maybe change out the glow plugs.
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Defo clean out the EGR manifold &map sensor.


What temp is showing on the car.
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When was the fuel filter last changed.
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Also, the water sheder emptied
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Have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor to see it's any better ?

You need to get in the hands of someone who knows the TD4
 
Didn't see it, but when have you changed the crankcase breather filter last? Or is the BMW cyclone in? And the valve 8510224? Don't know if that can cause misfire, but good to have it working I found just the lid of the valve recently but can't find it at the moment.
 
Hi all, thanks for the replies, I've only just got back onto the freelander sorry for the slow follow up. I did replace the breather with the bmw separator one about a year ago, its had a new injector loom. Unplugging the map or maf sensor make next to no difference (just makes it a little slower but still missing). In the last 50 miles or so it's developed into also plumes of blue smoke from 2k to 3krpm and a slight rattle when enitialy coming on boost. I can see the actuator moving nice n freely and have checked all pipes, they look good. There is quite a bit of oil in them tho. Where is the water shedder, I assume rear wheel arch? Temp is bang middle when warmed up and steady. Fuel filter changed under 500 miles ago. Given it starts fine I'd assume this rules out plugs?
Cheers
James.
 
Hi all, "holy thread resurrection batman!" I know mostly these threads never really get finished as the issue is sorted the the guy never says what it was.... so. This is my what it was post.

I took it to a specialist, On the day of dropping it off it was worse than ever, on a hill start it coughed, and stalled spewing lots of black cr*p out the exhaust. On restart, it ran perfectly! no smoke, great power responses, really good! Took it to the specialist anyway, who checked it over and said it was running perfectly. He suggested perhaps it was a blocked breather (which ive now changed for another uprated one) despite being the uprated one perhaps it had blocked. Or perhaps it has some crud on one of the various sensors, whichever it was, on the stall its blown it off/out. Now back to running well, and has done for the last 5 months. So.... make of that what you will. Sadly now selling up due to change in job situation :( but hopefully the conclusion may help someone else out. - double check that breather, clean off those sensors!
 
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