Td4 injectors

Hi, fairly new here and just bought an 05 TD4. I've been told the injectors need changing and been offered a set from a M47 BMW engine, I believe the TD4 has a M47R engine are the injectors the same? The reason being it lacks any power and will not rev past 2000rpm, was not as bad as this when I first bought it as was lacking in power until it got 1800rpm and then drove fine but now not really drivable.

I don't think the BMW M47 injectors are compatible with the FL1 M47R, as the injection system calibration is very different.

Low power can be a number of things, but not necessarily the injectors themselves. You need to monitor the live data from the EDC (engine ECU), to see HI rail pressure, Low rail pressure, boost pressure and so on. Also make sure the inlet manifold is clear of the accumulated goop that builds up, this can often break off and find it's way to the CAT. A blocked CAT will cause low power, and sluggish acceleration, and is getting more common, as these vehicles age.

Nodge68 said:

I don't think the BMW M47 injectors are compatible with the FL1 M47R, as the injection system calibration is very different.

Low power can be a number of things, but not necessarily the injectors themselves. You need to monitor the live data from the EDC (engine ECU), to see HI rail pressure, Low rail pressure, boost pressure and so on. Also make sure the inlet manifold is clear of the accumulated goop that builds up, this can often break off and find it's way to the CAT. A blocked CAT will cause low power, and sluggish acceleration, and is getting more common, as these vehicles age.

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Thanks for the reply apart from the obvious and disconnect the cat do you know if there is another way of testing the cat. I've also had a theory that the power was down when I first had the car and a mechanic noticed that the engine wireing loom had been chewed in places by what looked like a mouse due to the droppings found in the engine bay. He took it off and repaired it, it also had a syn2 Ron box which he said was not connected so he took it off. The car fud run slightly better after this. Others on this site have said the low power could be due to the maf not working. A new maf has been fitted but now a lot less power and won't rev past 1800 or so revs. My theory is the maf was not connected when I first had the car and that's why it was slightly better as forum members do say if the maf/connection is faulty when disconnected it will run better but way down on mpg. So I'm thinking in fitting a new engine loom to rule this out in case the loom/sensor connections are faulty. Sorry for such a long post but does this make sense?

yantojarc said:

Thanks for the reply apart from the obvious and disconnect the cat do you know if there is another way of testing the cat.

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Just look at the matrix, once the down pipe to the CAT joint has been unbolted. You'll see a blocked CAT, as it'll be full of black soot, and not clear. If the CAT is blocked, then you technically need a replacement, but as it's not tested for the MOT, most people simply breaks out the matrix material with a stout bar and hammer, then vacuum out the debris.

Start with the basics first. So clean out the inlet manifold, and check the CAT for blocking.

Only the genuine Bosch MAF is any good, aftermarket ones often giving a low signal, and restricted power.

The MAP sensor also need to be clear of goop, which builds up all over the inside of the inlet system.

Do those checks before delving deeper.

Nodge68 said:

Just look at the matrix, once the down pipe to the CAT joint has been unbolted. You'll see a blocked CAT, as it'll be full of black soot, and not clear. If the CAT is blocked, then you technically need a replacement, but as it's not tested for the MOT, most people simply breaks out the matrix material with a stout bar and hammer, then vacuum out the debris.

Start with the basics first. So clean out the inlet manifold, and check the CAT for blocking.

Only the genuine Bosch MAF is any good, aftermarket ones often giving a low signal, and restricted power.

The MAP sensor also need to be clear of goop, which builds up all over the inside of the inlet system.

Do those checks before delving deeper.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this Nodge68 but where is the map sensor? I'm more and more convinced now that its the Maf as she revs really good with the Maf disconnected, is it safe to drive it for short distances with it disconnected? I had the part from JGS 4x4 is this firm normally genuine? It just seems strange that the new Maf when connected will still only allow the revs to 1800, in your experience would you think a new bosh maf would solve the issue? Sorry for all the questions but you do seem to know what you are talking about!

The MAP is fitted to the inlet manifold, just above the PS pump.

If it runs ok with the MAF disconnected, then this would suggest that the MAF isn't sending a decent signal to the EDC. You can drive with it disconnected, but the MIL will be lit, and the EGR function will be disabled.

Cant thank you enough formal this help. Took it to a recommended independent garage yesterday and he has confirmed the new maf purchased is causing the power issues. New Bosh maf on order and being fitted on Tuesday. Thanks again for all your help. If any one needs a good LR mechanic in The South Wales area I can recommend one!l

Nooooooooo...... New Bosch MAF fitted and the same issue. No power at low revs then picks up to drive as normal after it eventually gets to 2100or about. No error codes for MAF but does show slight issue with injector 3, drives perfectly with MAF disconnected so don't think this is the problem. Garage is taking the car back on Monday but they have said they are at a loss as, surely 2 MAFs can't be faulty but the car perfectly when disconnected. Any one have any ideas as this so annoying as the car is in really good condition apart from this fault.

Have you checked the cat, or tried running it with the cat disconnected? Have you verified operation of the turbo?

Not tried these as yet as I was hoping the new MAF would have worked. But as the car runs as it should with the Maf disconnected I am hoping the cat and turbo are OK. Does this make sense?

Yeah, I forgot you had said it was fine with the MAF off.

When I got my 04 TD4 3 years ago the first thing I did was to give it a service & blank off the EGR (after reading on here that they run better), once the EGR valve was off I couldn't believe the amount of sludge in the manifold so I took it off & spent over half a day cleaning it out (pig of a job to clean) along with the intercooler & hoses. After I put it back together it run better, then after a few miles it started losing power when I tried to accelerate. It turned out to be a collapsing intercooler hose so they're worth a check & replace with silicone if needed. As Nodge says clean out the manifold, if needed & blank the EGR to stop the sludge building up again. If you do take the manifold off, the cylinder head will probably have lots of sludge/carbon deposits in the inlets, I left mine as was as I didn't want the crap falling in & possibly stopping an inlet valve closing. It's done 164,000 miles now, of which I've done 30,000 miles in the 3 yrs I've owed it & with regular servicing/preventative maintenance it's only let me down once (fuel pump failure) so give the intercooler hoses a check(although you normally get smoke out the exhaust if they're collapsing). Good luck.

Just a quick update just found out the garage didn't fit a Bosch maf just one from the motor factors. A bit annoying but he has offered to fit the Bosch one and if it works refund me for the other one which seems quite fair. That's being done next Friday. I'm running it with maf disconnected at the moment, does it make that much difference to the fuel consumption? On a separate note neec to also change the battery is there a way of getting the code from the radio if it is still connected without removing g it for the serial number?
Thanks for your replies so fa

Try a battery saver. Self powered ones are more convenient, but the cheaper ones need a spare car battery. Is your radio even coded?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=battery+saver&_sacat=0

Thanks for the reply never heard of a battery saver? The link only takes me to ebay not the product.

Just type "battery saver" into the eBay search box.

Got it now what a handy bit of kit. Why don't garages use this when disconnecting battery.

More common in the US, but a lot of them do, or they use booster packs. Some of the savers plug into the cigarette lighter socket and some connect to the OBD II port. Booster packs generally connect to the battery cables directly.

Just a recap of my issue which is now solved..... Bought the car and noticed it was quite a bit down on power, changed maf for a standard motor factors one which made the car even worse. Garage asked to fit a bosch maf but fitted a standard MF naff better but still dangerous to drive..... Stay with me here....... As a last resort trued a can of Maf cleaner which I thought would never work........ and low and behold the car us running perfectly..... Cost if cleaner £13.00...please be
aware if anyone has the same issue with low power at low revs and try cleaning the maf first!

Just been looking on eBay at FL1 TD4 injectors. The BMW M47 version seems to be about half the price. Is there a definitive answer on compatibility ?