TD4?.....Had enough!, time to sell.

Im used to working on many different vehicles, engines, boxes, welding the lot and i usually always fix the problems. Well,after spending about 10hrs on this damn car, trying to remove the IRD, and ending up with nothing but cuts, scratches, bruises, bumps and a severe case of nuclear frustration, I've given up! Given up on ONE solitary little bolt holding the IRD on that I just. can't get near, despite buying more mechanics tools than any decent thinking joiner would ever do. I got the impact wrench, the seemingly never ending socket extensions, all the other gear u need, but, to no avail. The plus point is I can use the tools on more accessible vehicles, bought after i SELL this thing. Sad thing is , I REALLY like the car when driving it. Time for another Transit!

Sorry to hear that mate,I love mine but not had it that long!!

There should be a write up on how to do it somewhere...

The upper bolt near the engine is a challenge but it's doable. I use a 12" extension on an air ratchet. You need to use a mirror to view what is going on as you guide the socket onto the bolt head.

God how ive tried guys, but that bolt is a pain. I have the ext bars and ratchet, and the mirror.
One little point may i ask. There are a whole bunch of hoses n pipes around there, nnot to mention the gear leavers, which i had off tho. Could it be those pipes foiling me?, can they come off to allow easier access??
Also, ive read many posts on here, and some mention that without an engine hoist, removing the box is near impossible. Surely not!. God ive removed and fitted a ford sierra(ok, its 20yrs ago) v6 box onto the shaft myself, from underneath, with it lying on my chest( another thing i promised never to do again)
See, im now at approx £200, what with the clutch kit, and the tools, so, to give up is RRRRRREally p****ng off as i now have to pay the garage`s original quote of £400+(me supplying parts). This sooooo knocks my ego out, lol.

Nodge68 said:

The upper bolt near the engine is a challenge but it's doable. I use a 12" extension on an air ratchet. You need to use a mirror to view what is going on as you guide the socket onto the bolt head.

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HI Nodge
On that bolt, are u coming in from the drivers wheel arch, or underneath somewhere? cheers

mjrimmer said:

There should be a write up on how to do it somewhere...

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That would be great, if somewhere i could see where to approach the thing from. Mibbi im working from wrong angle, not removed something for access, mibbi need to drop something , i dunno.

One thing i do know is that the Haynes manual is crap!. It will tell u `refer to chapter 4b`, then from there, refer to bloody 5b or somit, the very place u 1st got referred from!!! Ive spent half my time flicking pages ! grrr

Try this
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/ird-removal-tips-145728.html?highlight=Ird+removal

or this
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-ird-removal-133051.html?highlight=Ird+removal

Or in the search box just type in ird removal....there's a couple of pages with various pics and tips

Acoustimick said:

HI Nodge
On that bolt, are u coming in from the drivers wheel arch, or underneath somewhere? cheers

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I get at it from below but I do have access to a 2 poster which makes the job easier. I've employed a helper to hold a mirror so I can get the socket on the bolt. An air ratchet is a real helper for doing the bolt quickly but i'v used a hand ratchet to.
The pipes are IRD cooler pipes.
You don't need an engine hoist but you will some kind of support under the engine sump and a trolley jack to take the weight of the gearbox.

In sympathy.. I know this level of frustration. Decided to replace the belt tensioners and belts on my new one as they looked ropy and did not sound great - simple enuf task. Spent best part of a day trying to get the main V belt back on, with scratched knuckles, arms etc. The issue is access, v limited space. In sheer desperation and frankly a tad embarrassed, called a local mobile mechanic who fortunately would be passing this way early that eve - took him 2 mins to refit the belt. Lesson is you need the right tools and the technique is everything and harder you try sometimes, worse it gets. Never gonna touch the belts ever again!! Hope you get yours sorted - Get Nodge to do it

If he's local then sure he can pop round
When I did my engine change last year I planned to do it at home over a few weeks in my spare time. I took the Freelander to a mates workshop which is only a mile from me, there I took out the 2 upper IRD bolts while it was on the 2 poster. I drove the Freelander home with the IRD only held by the remaining 2 bolts. Once I'd completed the engine change I fitted the 3 easiest bolts then went back to the workshop to refit the remaining upper bolt.

if you have flat sided sockets then by all means used the air ratchet but if you have the multi sided sockets don't you will just round the dam thing ,good luck

I GOT IT OUT !!!!!! hahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa u beauty!!! lol
Thnx to u guys, i realised that my mistake was.....NOT removing the subframe 1st! After doin this, the bolt was easy!
So....ive prob spent about an hr n half earlier removing all the underneath stuff, then about 5mins removing the bolts, inc all the end plates, support brackets etc......yet, it still wont budge! Now, i could just stick a bar in there and use some brute force to seperate the boxes, but thats not really very clever i guess.
There is one little plate bolted to the engine, not the IRD, right behind the IRD shaft output, held on by 3 little 10mm(socket size, not shank) bolts. Unfortunatley, theyre badly rounded, so obv someone has been here before me, and i cant get em out in the conventional manner. My point being, does the IRD have to move to the right away from the box before it will drop enough to pass this little flange. Or, will it drop 1st, and pass under it. I hope im making myself clear, and u guys kinda know where i am. Manual doesnt really mention this, only the IRD support bracket, which i have removed already. The unit still seems stuck firmly to the box, and im just scared to force them in case. It may just be a tight joint on the 2 faces, but thought id pop the question , before i pop the old nail bar. This is looking like my last hurdle on removal, hopefully .

This is a must tool btw, saved me hrs on the old ratchet!

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench


.

Anyone.

Acoustimick said:

Anyone.

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?
Well done that man. Just got to sort the clutch now then

Clutch fitted!, now the rebuild. Frustrating thing is, old clutch has little wear, plate has no burn marks, and it looks a solid flywheel, not the DM one! , plus it's stamped LUk march 2011
So, looks like I've mibbi wasted my time, and should've done master cylinder 1st
That gearbox sure is a challenge btw, lyin on my back like a wee submissive dog, holdin this thing up on all four limbs tryin to get it back on the shaft lol.
I reckon I'll stick to joinery

Don't forget the pic's. We like pic's.

Hippo said:

Don't forget the pic's. We like pic's.

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Oh! ****! I better go get back into my oily filthy gear again, get down on all fours, puffin and pantin, groaning hard at every push!!!!!!!

Didn't know this was ur thing Hippo
Lol

Acoustimick said:

Oh! ****! I better go get back into my oily filthy gear again, get down on all fours, puffin and pantin, groaning hard at every push!!!!!!!

Didn't know this was ur thing Hippo
Lol

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Just pic's of the repair and nothing else.