Lol, Hiya Mike, a totally unimpressive test - at - 40 !!!!
they are joking - and it means nothing at all.
Lubricants are not tested via pouring out of a bottle - they are tested via a pressurised system.
That video is a load of bollox really., In fact - THE worst ever oil to hit the market was mobil one ! - it caused more engine catastrophic failures than any other engine oil.
It - in the early days - caused mix issues with conventional oils.
Loads of you tube cr&p shows silly comparisons like this.
Stick to Cheap supermarket oil - and I guarantee you will never - ever notice any difference - the only caveat is stick with a known name - avoid totally unknown names - - without research- - - supermarket 'brands' are usually absolutely - superb. - paying for so called 'synthetic' (cough cough Bull$hit) or semi synthetic (Semi Bull$hit) is purely a waste of dosh - you have been warned (CONNED) do not fall for the BS ! let the force be with you .................
your ramblings get better with every post. 
I like Carlube oils too. Conveniently they make an MTF94 manual box oil in addition to the excellent ATF-U auto box fluidHow many beers you had today
Got to admit, I never go for the big brands.
I'm a big Carlube fan. Nice and cheap, but good and used by loads of us cheapskates.
Mike
Hope you meant GetragHi mate, There is a direct correlation between 10W40 and 75W80, it is all in the numbering system - very confusing ! - the rating system is definitely not the same ! - one cannot compare them side by side.
See wiki here -
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil
Also note -
"API viscosity ratings for gear oils are not directly comparable with those for motor oil, and they are thinner than the figures suggest. For example, many modern gearboxes use a 75W90 gear oil, which is actually of equivalent viscosity to a 10W40 motor oil. Multigrade gear oils are becoming more common; while gear oil does not reach the temperatures of motor oil, it does warm up appreciably as the car is driven, due mostly to shearfriction (with a small amount of heat conduction through the bellhousing from the engine block)."
The minor differences are some of the EP (extreme pressure) additives) - however - due to no differential on the PG1 box (it is in the IRD) it is no issue.. so yes - 10W40 Automotive is fine. - IF however - it had a built in DIFF - it may be more of a concern - not to be bit to others
Fear not little drooping seat (to quote the Goon Shows) - sheesh - my age is coming out now - - 'tales of old Dartmoor' etc///
. We're talking about my TD4, not my K Series.
LR specified MTF94 for PG1 and Getrag box and most other LR boxes too. I suspect this was to avoid confusion in the dealers workshop. MTF94 is a kind of one size fits all gearbox oil.Hope you meant Getrag
In any case I was out before I saw the reply and bought an EU gallon of ATF (5L cause it was cheaper than 3L) and 3L of Carlube MTF94 so I'm assuming it will be fine once the ATF has done it's stuff.
Filled it with ATF and will take it for a 150ish mile spin when I get her Taxed and Insured. Will report back with the results.
a gear box contains bearings and gears those will run fine with hydraulic oil,engine oil, atf or thick gear oil, and lrs have series started on gear oil ,later lt95s in first range rovers used engine oil ,later 77s used atf as did r380s, what does mind what oil is used is the baulk rings, a baulk ring designed for mtf or atf wont do well with gear oil especially ep 90 ,thinner oils are used as they cool and produce less heat and drag, if a box will run on mtf atf will be ok too, r380s used atf then later mtf ,some find mtf gives better gear selection others not, what does wear gear boxes is running on the same oil too long ,bearings suffer before the gears doThanks Nodge, You hear from some people it is critical to use the right oil or your gearbox will fall off then others say they use any old thing so it is hard to know what is correct. I heard it is important to use MTF94 because of some of the materials inside the gearbox box but don't know enough about it to be able to comment.
Back to the reason for this thread, I drained the gearbox oil earlier and was surprised at how thin and kinda grey it was but glad to see no metal bits. I even passed it through a sieve to be sure.
Hi Alibro, I hope it sorts it, I really do, but be prepared for the worst case - that is is a fooked synchro cone - hopefully not,Thanks Nodge, You hear from some people it is critical to use the right oil or your gearbox will fall off then others say they use any old thing so it is hard to know what is correct. I heard it is important to use MTF94 because of some of the materials inside the gearbox box but don't know enough about it to be able to comment.
Back to the reason for this thread, I drained the gearbox oil earlier and was surprised at how thin and kinda grey it was but glad to see no metal bits. I even passed it through a sieve to be sure.
- that is a good sign and a good start. !!!!!
) and am prepared for the worst.
lolWee update, The car was only taxed and insured today so took it out for the first time since filling the gearbox with ATF and it seems to have made a big difference. I think it may have crunched once into third gear but the rest of the 50 or so miles it was nice and smooth. Planning to do a few more miles tomorrow with the ATF before putting in the MTF94 but at the minute poor Joe_H is in serious danger of being on the receiving end of a great big slobbery kiss!!!!!
I would keep it in for around 200 town miles with lots of changes really - so hang on a bit... no harm at all will arise. ) 
Spoilsport!lol
Also, if it is fine on atf - it may well be ok then on the main oil - but the proof of the pudding etc........ fingers crossed - (but sounds really good so far
And IF it ends up ok ... no tongues
About 15 years ago my bride did a similar thing in her old Clio. She had an oil and filter change at Kwik Fit in Nelson, went to Burnley shopping, came home and 'casually' told me there was a red light on.
- Kwik fit - surprisingly ! - said they would be liable for damages (probably ONLY because they knew the car was not worth much!) - oil pressure check showed fine - compression check was fine - Had Holden and Hartley take a look at the crank bearings - a main cap and a big end - looked fine as did the shells. (They also paid for that.)
And no groping !\
Spoilsport!
Not really much point then.And no groping !
Hmmmm...Not really much point then.
... now, IF I had an Audi TT ....... or a Suzuki or Rav.. or, maybe if I was good at Perm and blue rinse. ????... Hmmmmm..... then I might have settled for a BJ ... I much prefer A'lass
Agreed mate, yes, it doesn't take much to cause major damage in a fairly short time. How many engines have we seen with very low miles that are caked with crud in the crankcase and oil galleries - sometimes even with blocked crank journal feeds - that are totally scrapped due in a lot of cases to lack of servicing such as a lazy owner or back street bodger - like the old back street garage trick of cleaning the oil filter outside with paraffin to save a quid or two
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