tailgate window

hi all freebee been laid up for a while (use of company van) anyways went out to put something in the boot unlocked it as normal pressed the handle glass moved a little but not enough to clear the top trim so could not open tail gate .the window still goes down off the fob and up and down of the inside switch any help would be much appreciated many thanks

You could try recalibrating it. Disconnect battery earth, wait 10 seconds, reconnect battery earth (tailgate window will now drop fully) and press the tailgate window up button so it goes all the way to the top. Calibration now complete.

many thanks hippo will give it a try and report back cheers

hi all tryed to recalibrate the window found out the wiring in the door was stopping the progress of the window on its downward journey taped it back in to place now the window goes all the way down so pressed the button to take it back to the top all well up to this point tryed to open the door same as before moves a little but not enough to clear the top trim so still cannot open the back door its only a matter of mm until its cleared any other ideas many thanks

anyone?

had similar happen on mine, was one of the contact wires on window had come adrift, which when I tried soldering, came off totally, add a small piece of wire and re soldered, door opens fine now, but I daren't open window fully in case it goes again,lol

many thanks for the quick reply all wires in place and in good condition the window does drop when the door handel is used just not quite enough to clear the trim its now doing my head in

is there anything else to check before i take a loan out and take it to the steelers many thanks

Seek and ye shall find ...could be the cable tension

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/problem-rear-tailgate-window-freelander-commercial-191891.html

When mine did this I loosened the mounting screws holding the rear door catch to the body, moved it outwards a bit and re-tightened. This was so that the glass didn't exert so much pressure on the sealing rubber when closed. Took a couple of goes to get it right, together with a bit of silicone spray on the rubber itself, but it works a treat now.

I have noticed on mine that there is a small amount of "Backlash" in the cables/glass runners. I removed the regulator and the cover over the spool cassette on the motor-it's the motor gearing that is causing the free play. You may know that the pressure of the glass on the rubber door seal is adjustable by the screws located on the bottom of the regulator guide rails (The ones with M8 nut/washers on them). These adjusters move the glass closer or further away from the seal, turning the adjuster screws clockwise moves the glass closer to the seal, according to RAVE, these should be adjusted to give 1mm of "Pressure" on the seal. If the pressure is too high this will cause any backlash in the drive assembly to kick in, due to the drag, resulting in the window not dropping sufficiently to clear the top plastic trim.
Moving the latch striker will of course have an effect on the correct setting of the regulator guide rails and these should also be adjusted to allow for this.

many many thanks for all the replys will give them all ago at the weekend and report back again thanks to you all