Swivel pin housing leak

Need a little help i have just noticed a leek from the front pas wheel.
i looked in the haynes manual and it says swivel pin housing but does not say anything about a leak.
is there a seal on the ball that needs to be changed or do i need to do anything else.

yes

seal is this one

FTC3401 Swivel housing seal 8mm - front axle non ABS from JA032850

but make sure you have correct one for your model, and chassis number etc

You will also require one shot grease to refill

STC3435 Swivel housing one shot grease - front axle non ABS from JA032850

other than that just follow Mr Haynes on how to change it, not a major job, but make sure that the ball is not scored which is causing the leak by rubbing the seal

Or if you want a bodge do what I did on my RRC and put a few shots of grease from my grease gun the stopped the leak and for lasted two years, then I sold her with a still dry swivel.

Thanks for that ill go and get one to do the weekend.

Andyrim said:

Need a little help i have just noticed a leek from the front pas wheel.
i looked in the haynes manual and it says swivel pin housing but does not say anything about a leak.
is there a seal on the ball that needs to be changed or do i need to do anything else.

Click to expand...

If it's not a really bad leak the one shot grease will probably cure it, did for mine.

All swivels should now have grease instead of oil. It can fail the MOT on a leaking swivel but not on a scored ball. You can also buy a CV gaiter kit that takes the swivel balls themselves out of the MOT test.

If I can't get my hand on one shot grease can I put a shot or two of bearing grease like someone else suggested? We are in the middle of mexico and ordering from england is a bit of a pita...

Cheers

Gary Gilbert said:

If I can't get my hand on one shot grease can I put a shot or two of bearing grease like someone else suggested? We are in the middle of mexico and ordering from england is a bit of a pita...

Cheers

Click to expand...

you can use grease or oil,preferably ep gear oil but any oil would do , the problem with grease is it doesnt flow so gets thrown from the cv ,so if thats all you used it would run dry

The problem is it first started leaking after I got the oil changed, unfortunately it was overfilled so I am assuming that the overfill in caused the seal to give way, is that a correct assumption? I also haven't been able to find ep oil anywhere the best I can find here in mexico is SAE 80w90 (gl 5) which seems quite liquidy, I have also seen some GL 1, but no GL 4. I wasn't thinking of completely draining the oil out just remove a bit and add a bit of grease to thicken it up a bit- if that would even work.

Any advice would be appreciated, I've got limited tools (no ball bearing puller) so having a kit shipped somewhere is the solution when replacement is an absolute must- I know what a bad cv joint sounds like so we aren't there yet I'm just wondering how long I can leave this before it becomes expensive...

Gary Gilbert said:

I'm just wondering how long I can leave this before it becomes expensive...

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I reckon outside contamination is your greatest worry, if it's had oil in it and you are not driving through axle deep water/mud etc constantly it will last quite a long time, the seal, although leaking a bit of oil will still keep most stuff out unless visibly broken.

Thanks for the info! We will keep an eye on it, perhaps mix a bit of high temp grease with the oil to thicken it up a bit perhaps that will slow the leaking a bit. Although we are heading into the rainy season in central America I doubt we will be doing too much wading...at least I hope not!

Cheers from San Cristobal