Suddenly died

A while back i had a mjor problem trying to bring the 110 td5 back to life. turned out my ecu was fried.

Last week I started the car and it stop after a running for 1 -2 secs.
I left the car on charge over night, waggled wires, checked earths ( earth between ecu & vattery didn't seem great. once ok still no further forward.), glow relay was rapidly clicking when cranking. filled the fuel (it was 1/4 full at the time.) Unplugged & reconnected ecu. We found a volt drop at ecu when cranking so we jump it from my mates 90 and away she went. Not exactly sure of the problem. Notice when jumping it the clicking of the relay stopped. I think the battery was low from trying to start it so many times.

Tonight same problem occured, it fired and stopped a second or 2 later. Only fault is MAF sensor ( new unit on order). I can see the rpm when cranking. Fuel pump is running, relays sound normal. Earth wire was replaced, where it connects to the chasis was wire brushed to bare metal + an extra heavy wire from engine to chassis.
I have left it on charge with ecu unplugged. I need to check the volts when cranking but my multimeter is past its best.
I have left it on charge with ecu discconected.

Has anybody suffered similar?

Oh and it can be a bitch to start in the morning if left facing up hill ok down hill. I since tighten up the air bleed valve connector which was replaced on the filter housing. I think the filter housing is in need of replacement.

Help needed otherwise I going to end up selling for a msaller landy that fits in the garage.

Knackered battery?

When cranking voltage drops to 10.2 v. Checked at ECU power & at battery.
ECU removed for testing - hoping it's not fried again.

put a strong battery which doesn't drop under 11V while cranking, measure voltage with engine running... it would be good to check the alternator output with oscilloscope cos if only one or two diodes are shot in the diode pack(it has 8), the DC output will be closely the same on multimeter but the current will have a strong AC component which could ruin the ECU or mix up the management.... it's a possibility which must be ruled out even if it's not very common just to make sure, if the parasitic drain with ignition off exceeds 0.5A this theory becomes more plausible, if the drain is normal(around0.05A/50mA) it's Ok

When cranking voltage at ecu and across battery drops to 10.2v.
Ecu plugged into my mates 110 - all ok.
At last parts have arrived and I have made a fuel pressure test unit using an old fuel regulator hose



I get just over 4 bar going into fuel regulator but less than 2 bar coming out.

Which is most likley cause of fault bearing in mind they were all done recently
1. Blocked gauze on fuel inlet?
2. Leaking regulator?
3. Leaking injector seals?

10.2 volts does not sound enough ecu will be shutting down and not firing injectors

earth's and inertia switch wiring

1. All the earths were removed. Where they bolt to the chassis was cleaned back to bare metal as was the bolts, washers and cable ends. All bolted back up. Extra earth strap ran from gearbox to drivers side chassis and also chassis to bulkhead. An earth is lead direct to the ecu.
2. Jump leads aren't long enough to jump off the other car. So I have a bit of an operation to spin the car around (theres a house next to the drivers door)
3. Noted on measuring the charge off the alt. but I can't do that until it is running.
4. ECU is ok. old ECU had water damage.
5. is less than 2bar of fuel pressure on the return Ok?
6. I thought ECU threshold voltage was lower than 10v.

Ruari said:

1. All the earths were removed. Where they bolt to the chassis was cleaned back to bare metal as was the bolts, washers and cable ends. All bolted back up. Extra earth strap ran from gearbox to drivers side chassis and also chassis to bulkhead. An earth is lead direct to the ecu.
2. Jump leads aren't long enough to jump off the other car. So I have a bit of an operation to spin the car around (theres a house next to the drivers door)
3. Noted on measuring the charge off the alt. but I can't do that until it is running.
4. ECU is ok. old ECU had water damage.
5. is less than 2bar of fuel pressure on the return Ok?
6. I thought ECU threshold voltage was lower than 10v.

Click to expand...

2. then remove the battery and give it ba good charge

5. the FPR is there to keep 4 bar in the head and let the excess back so the return from it is irrelevant as long as you have 4 bar in the head

6. theoretically the limit is 9V but in real life below 10.5 it MIGHT make tricks... depends from one car to another imo...mine cranks like hell but doesnt fire below 10.5(that's a fact)

Cheers Sierrafery

Think I may nick a battery from work as a test. Battery has had a good charge whilst disconnected. Fingers crossed.

Your bang on boys.

Jump start last night and she came back to life.
I had disregarded the battery as the engine had fired and ran for a second or 2. Also on checking voltages they weren't dropping down to the threshold of 9v to shut off the ecu.
In reality the ECU does need 10.5v to run the car.
When running I get 14v.

I had the same problem, driving on the motorway 110km/h speed dropped down no response on the gas pedal and she went out!
Cranking and cranking......no start!
New original fuel pump and she runs like never before.
Disco 2 Td5 1999 393.000 kms.
Paul

Back in the Uk, bought a new battery. stuck it in and she still wont start. Tried jumping it from mates 90, still wont start what the feck is this tempremental problem???

Maybe time to hire in the big guns and employ some one to look into this.