Starting problems

A Picture of the crankcase?

Thank you!

Okay so i just got in the car after driving 2 miles to work this morning. Switched ignition on and the lights on the dash were flashing, temp gauge up to full temp and red light on, there was also a clicking sound coming from the bonnet. Car would not start, after turning the ignition on and off several times the lights settled and the car would start.

Battery Voltage is 12.6 and about 14v when the car is running. Could this be related? Dodgy battery? I fitted a new battery connector to the negative cable a couiple of weeks back by sawing off the connector and replacing.

danbr said:

Okay so i just got in the car after driving 2 miles to work this morning. Switched ignition on and the lights on the dash were flashing, temp gauge up to full temp and red light on, there was also a clicking sound coming from the bonnet. Car would not start, after turning the ignition on and off several times the lights settled and the car would start.

Battery Voltage is 12.6 and about 14v when the car is running. Could this be related? Dodgy battery? I fitted a new battery connector to the negative cable a couiple of weeks back by sawing off the connector and replacing.

Click to expand...

hi

the filter with the arrow goes towards the turbo , yes u were right. just couldnt remember without looking

still trying to find that part number for u ,

a click under the bonnet normaly means a bad earth , pos lead or flat battery

could always pop down to ur motor factors or halfords and they can test ur battery for u

ur alternater sounds ok with them volt readings

haven't had the experiance of a dashboard flashing like that , wonder if it's a bad connection flickering on and off causing that issue , maybe one of the other members may have seen it

wonder if a bad ignition switch could cause the dashboard to throw a Wobley

it hasn't been power washed or through deep water at any stage has it

will in the mean time get that part number for u

sorry I cant pin the fault straight away for u and it must be driving u insane

sounds like u have a few issues , if we get the crankcase filter done then the battery resolved can then see what where left with , lol

ref crankcase filter found this for u

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-crankcase-filter-62361.html

also got the pics and part number ,

well that's one thing off the list, lol

do u have to jump start ur hippo everytime or occassionally ,

can u by messing around with the ignition key always resolve the issue and turns the engine over briskly

sorry keep asking questions but determined to get this solved, one way or another , nothing like a challenge

think the earth straps all need to be checked , onto the starter motor , good contact on the battery , and the battery is in good Nick

should keep u busy for 5 mins , lol

Is there any way i can test the battery, i don't have a local halfords or anywhere that could test the battery.

Just tried the car again, put key in ignition, and the clicking sound started again, TC, abs, hdc lights were flashing, at the same time i could hear what sounded like a fan spinning under the bonnet, turning the ignition on and off several times, and the car would start.

The battery that is in it is a Numax, would this be the original battery?

Is it worth buying the bmw part for the crankcase filter or just oe?

11127799224 | eBay

I bet the blue smoke this time of year when it is cold could be heater plugs and that also will not do any good for starting when you have solved the starting issues and you still get blue smoke on initial start up of the day will mean valve oil seals . hope this helps

danbr said:

Is there any way i can test the battery, i don't have a local halfords or anywhere that could test the battery.

Just tried the car again, put key in ignition, and the clicking sound started again, TC, abs, hdc lights were flashing, at the same time i could hear what sounded like a fan spinning under the bonnet, turning the ignition on and off several times, and the car would start.

The battery that is in it is a Numax, would this be the original battery?

Is it worth buying the bmw part for the crankcase filter or just oe?

11127799224 | eBay

Click to expand...

for the easy one , yes buy the bmw part , get it from a main dealer

ref battery i done a post a little while ago

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/up-date-volts-amp-test-results-276485.html

but this was because I had a problem with the car drawing voltage

bought one of these so u can plug it into ur cig lighter as an easier way instead of a multimeter

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-V...245?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a45c3efcd

the standard battery should give around 12 volts , when u start the car should get around 14.4 volts

if u get that little tester it will show u what ur volts are first thing in the morning

so if u plug it in can see what readings u have without lifting the bonnet

to actually test the effectiveness of the battery most garages should offer a free test

size wise a battery is a 096 , if u need to replace should have around 85 AH and min 600 cca

I put a larger varta one in mine a 110 size, which has 85 AH and 800 cca

sorry the posts are so long just trying to give u as much info as possible

by u messing around with the ign switch it just seems it may be faulty ??? , when it finally fires does it turn the engine over quickly

if u get the battery tested first , maybe get the little cig lighter tester so u can see what volts you've got , could also watch it when it's messing around ??

get the crankcase filter bmw part in and see what we have then

bmw part
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...966?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43c5786a7e

Hi,

Sorry for the delayed response, been to busy to look at the car. I managed to sort the light issue on the dash flashing on and off, it was a bad earth cable connection.

So now its just back to the cold start problem.

Car just cranks and cranks in a morning and really struggling to fire now. Once it fires it runs okay and if i go back to the car within a few hours it starts first time no problem.

Any ideas? Should i try the leak back test?

danbr said:

Hi,

Sorry for the delayed response, been to busy to look at the car. I managed to sort the light issue on the dash flashing on and off, it was a bad earth cable connection.

So now its just back to the cold start problem.

Car just cranks and cranks in a morning and really struggling to fire now. Once it fires it runs okay and if i go back to the car within a few hours it starts first time no problem.

Any ideas? Should i try the leak back test?

Click to expand...

My other freelander had that problem but it was a fuel pump and it was as bad hot or cold.

Eventually it didn't start at all..

But I suspect your glo plugs are the problem here, or possibly the secondary fuel pump under the bonnet.

On my older one when you start without waiting for the glo plugs it kicks out lots of smoke till it all gets a goin.

Any way to check fuel pressure?

Most garages can do that,. If its low that means new secondary fuel pump I guess.