Starting problems

Hi,

I have a freelander sport 05 deisel that has issues when starting. Before i had to turn ignition on and off 4 times before it would start. I thought the issue was glow plugs so i replaced with new beru plugs. Now when i turn ignition on the TC and HDC lights stay on, after 2 or 3 times of turning the ignition on and off it starts okay but is really choked up, struggles untill it gets to 2.5k rpm and then it idles okay. Kicks out alot of blue smoke.

Anyone have any ideas please?

Cheers,
Danny

What milage has the motor done? Blue smoke can point to worn piston rings / valve guides. White smoke is potentially a pre heat issue [glow plug/s]. Injectors can give prob's too with the same symptoms.

Has it been well serviced, by that I mean regularly serviced? Belts, turbo piping in good order... filter [ oil, air and fuel]

It has done 125k miles and yes has had regular services, around ever 12-15000 miles. Not sure about belts, turbo piping though.

danbr said:

Hi,

I have a freelander sport 05 deisel that has issues when starting. Before i had to turn ignition on and off 4 times before it would start. I thought the issue was glow plugs so i replaced with new beru plugs. Now when i turn ignition on the TC and HDC lights stay on, after 2 or 3 times of turning the ignition on and off it starts okay but is really choked up, struggles untill it gets to 2.5k rpm and then it idles okay. Kicks out alot of blue smoke.

Anyone have any ideas please?

Cheers,
Danny

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as the said with regards to a good service routine each and every year

has it got a full service history

as yours is a td4 will have a timing chain and not a belt

in actual fact glow plugs won't stop an engine to start , a diesel starts by compression,,glows are there to aid starting in cold weather and also to meet emissions

maybe due to blue smoke,possibly worn piston rings ,,it's not getting enough compression to start straight away

have u replaced the air filter , crankcase , turbo filter , egr bypass, oil and engine filter ,gearbox etc , any split vacuum hoses etc

but as u mention about this blue smoke u may have to check what the compression is on each cylinder, remove injectors , get a test on each cyl , then if u put a bit of oil down each cylinder and if they improve it means ur oil rings are going

might be a good idea to get a garage to plug it in to one of there machines as they can tell you what kind of condition the hippo is in and if there are any dtc faults

please let us know how u get on

Yes it has full service history and was serviced about 1500 miles ago.

Starting the car yesterday it just cranks and cranks, after turning ignition on and off about 5 times it eventually fires. The car always starts without problem if it has been run that day. Seems to just develop the problems when car is sat at night.

It also had new MAF fit at last service.

I'd do an injector leak back test and look at low fuel pressure readings as the first step in diagnosing this issue

td4van said:

I'd do an injector leak back test and look at low fuel pressure readings as the first step in diagnosing this issue

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How would i do the leak back test? Is it worth opening up the crankcase and changing the filter?

danbr said:

How would i do the leak back test? Is it worth opening up the crankcase and changing the filter?

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sorry that's why we always ask about servicing , so it hasn't been serviced , not being rude

crankcase filter
turbo filter
air filter

egr bypass

oil and engine filter
ird oil
diff oil
gearbox oil

don't know if the L series has all of these

hope it's not being rude but that's why we asked if it had been serviced so we can help

hope this hasn't come across as disrespectful to u in any way

I meant it has had a service at a garage 1500 miles ago. Ill have a look at the invoice and see what filters they changed.

danbr said:

I meant it has had a service at a garage 1500 miles ago. Ill have a look at the invoice and see what filters they changed.

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no probs just didn't want my post to come across as rude to u mate

Ive just checked the service log:

12309miles - LR Service
24227miles - Service
35652miles - LR Service
44302miles - LR Service
64631miles - LR Service Type A + Anti corrosion Inspection
85212miles - Service type A, coolant change and anti corrosion inspection
101619Miles - Service type B, coolant change AC inspection
114971miles - Service type C, coolant change AC inspection
126426miles - Service type B

What is the difference between service type a b c ? I also have a receipt for a fuel pump change in 2013. Should the time chain need changed?

I checked the invoice from the last service and it just has, oil filter, air filter fuel filter change and MAF meter BMW part change. Should i look at changing the filters you listed too?

Thanks for your help!

please ignore a post where I put a L engine, but urs is a td4 same as mine but a later version , take no notice , have deleated it to stop confusion , lol

so sorry but crossed purposes on another post

services a , b and c are just more intensive than others according to mileage and some need more parts than a previuos one then go back to a

will try and find the list for u

right , don't change any filters but

wouldnt hurt to check ur crankcase filter to see what condition it is

may I ask how mechanically minded are u please

where abouts in the uk are u

the blue smoke is a little bit of a concern

timing chain should be fine

so the main issue is it's hard to start from cold , but then fine when warm , does the blue smoke go at all when warm plse

once warm will it rev freely throughout the Rev range plse

so let's start from the beginning , we know it's been serviced , but could do some checks as it won't cost u anything and establish and eliminate them as we go along

could start with , check the crankcase filter and as its there the air filter to see what condition they are in

there's also a small turbo filter that's sits at the back of the engine, near ur brake master cylinder, is only connected one end , if u pull it off, noting the arrow direction can u blow through it ok

has an egr bypass been done on it , or maybe the inlet manifold cleaned

fuel pumps if not genuine can fail as well , but I think though it would be ok as its ok when warm

have a quick check and we can go through the engine step by step and see if we can resolve the issue for u

it may indeed need to have the injectors tested by means of a leak by test as mentioned but if we see what condition etc ur filters are we can hopefully get an idea of issues with regards to basics first and no outlay

so if we start off by

checking the crankcase filter and air filter

the small turbo filter at the back of the engine

pull off the egr hose and see what condition it is in inside the egr , is it gunked up

from the egr u will see a small vacuum hose , has it got any small holes, follow it back to the engine as it can burn holes through the vacuum pipe

if ur anywhere near kent I've got a hawkeye and u would be more then welcome to bring it over , could plug in the hawkeye and find the problem , but all depends how far away u are

let us know how u get on and always happy to help a fellow freelander owner

I have just checked the crankcase filter and it is saturated in oil, is that normal?

Air filter looks okay, turbo filter is okay also.

gstuart said:

sorry that's why we always ask about servicing , so it hasn't been serviced , not being rude

crankcase filter
turbo filter
air filter

egr bypass

oil and engine filter
ird oil
diff oil
gearbox oil

don't know if the L series has all of these

hope it's not being rude but that's why we asked if it had been serviced so we can help

hope this hasn't come across as disrespectful to u in any way

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L Series is a bit of oil every now and then and clean the bird **** off the windows

danbr said:

I have just checked the crankcase filter and it is saturated in oil, is that normal?

Air filter looks okay, turbo filter is okay also.

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hi is the oil black sludge and choked
or just smeared with clear oil

don't know if ur aware that there is a bmw crankcase conversion that is around £50 quid, they don't have a filter and only need checking every few years and just need a wipe around

where abouts in the uk are u please

do u happen to know if the fuel pump was a genuine part or not, can u hear it when u put the ignition on

thks mate

GrumpyGel said:

L Series is a bit of oil every now and then and clean the bird **** off the windows

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sorry mate this is my fault, I thought it was a L series but is a td4 , cross posts and do apologise

The fule pump does make a noise when ignition on, the fuel pump was changed 27/11/2013 by hogg diesel injection ltd sheffield. It says to supply and fit sir.ex oil fuel pump. Bad handwriting cant be sure of that. cost £540.

The crank filter was saturated in black oil. The clip that holds it in also broke.

I believe it does have egr blanking mod.

Thanks for your help.

Danny

danbr said:

The fule pump does make a noise when ignition on, the fuel pump was changed 27/11/2013 by hogg diesel injection ltd sheffield. It says to supply and fit sir.ex oil fuel pump. Bad handwriting cant be sure of that. cost £540.

The crank filter was saturated in black oil. The clip that holds it in also broke.

I believe it does have egr blanking mod.

Thanks for your help.

Danny

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ok, where abouts are u as someone near u may have a hawkeye and can plug it in for u

that pcv needs changing asap , air filter ??

£540 sounds very high to just change a fuel pump

if it's not an oem one they can fail within 18 months or so I belive

will let u read through the rest of the posts so we can establish what's going on

sorry asking so many questions , lol

I'm west coast of scotland. Had it on a computer in lr specialist in atherton and he checked cylinder reading etc around 5 months ago and didn't say there was an issue.

Will i need to get new crackcase aswell as filter as the clip is broken ?

Do you have a part number? The arrow on the turbo filter was pointing towards the pipe rather than away from the pipe, is this correct?

Cheers,
Danny

danbr said:

I'm west coast of scotland. Had it on a computer in lr specialist in atherton and he checked cylinder reading etc around 5 months ago and didn't say there was an issue.

Will i need to get new crackcase aswell as filter as the clip is broken ?

Do you have a part number? The arrow on the turbo filter was pointing towards the pipe rather than away from the pipe, is this correct?

Cheers,
Danny

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ok mate no probs , good news about the test not showing problems

will try and find the bmw part number for u

it comes complete , are u able to post any pics please

I think there around £50 quid , bmw dealers sell them


blimey I can't remember about the arrow

got to pop out to my car and will have a look , am putting all my inlet manifold back on after cleaning it all out so will have a look later for u , unless someone beats me to it, lol

will get there in the end ,lol