Freelander 1 (SOLVED)Flumes of greyish smoke from freelander td4

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fastasulike72

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Location
Walsall
Hi guys not been on here for a while as my motor been running great for a while but was wondering if anyone had any ideas,was towing our caravan With my 2004 freelander td4 auto fine down the M5 and just before the Gloucester services had a loss of power and flumes of grey smoke out of exhaust,managed to get to the services,parked up and switched engine off,left about half an hour and switched engine on again and there was greyish smoke everywhere,seems to tick over ok with no misfire but struggled to drive so had to call recovery,no fault codes found on reader,going to get this one booked in to a garage but wondered if anyone might have any ideas,thanks fellas,sorry but forgot to mention that I’ve checked hoses and no leaks,and replaced the crankcase breather
 
When mine did that is was the high pressure pump seals firing diesel vapour into the crankcase which the engine snorted and chucked out unburnt!!

Beware a risk of run away with this fault.
 
If it's the fuel pump, I'd expect the oil level to be normal

Not in my case!! Good point though, check your oil level. Mine went up as the surplus fuel got forced into it.

So up or down on the oil level is an easy check. Assuming it was correct in the first place
 
Loss of power with black smoke is normally a split boost pipe. Check them all for leaks, especially the upper one on the front left as you look at the engine. It rubs on a bolt, and often gets holed. The elbow boost pipe going to the EGR valve is another which splits quite often.

Thick grey smoke is often a sign of oil from the turbo being burned in large quantities, however this is normally accompanied by an increase in engine speed, and often running on after shutdown.
 
Loss of power with black smoke is normally a split boost pipe. Check them all for leaks, especially the upper one on the front left as you look at the engine. It rubs on a bolt, and often gets holed. The elbow boost pipe going to the EGR valve is another which splits quite often.

Thick grey smoke is often a sign of oil from the turbo being burned in large quantities, however this is normally accompanied by an increase in engine speed, and often running on after shutdown.
Hi there nodge,all pipes are new and have been rechecked,I’ve got a sponge protector under the hose your on about to protect from the screw,I’ve got no speed increase,the smoke is a light grey in colour and has a funny smell to it,it ticks over as normal but with the smoke bellowing out of exhaust and when I try to rev it struggles and kicks out loads more smoke,
 
Hi there nodge,all pipes are new and have been rechecked,I’ve got a sponge protector under the hose your on about to protect from the screw
That's those eliminated then.
I’ve got no speed increase,the smoke is a light grey in colour and has a funny smell to it,it ticks over as normal but with the smoke bellowing out of exhaust and when I try to rev it struggles and kicks out loads more smoke,
Ok. Next test is to remove the elbow boost pipe from the EGR and run the engine again. This test allow you to check for excessive oil in the boost pipes, which can only come from the turbo seals, or the crank case vent system.
Now removing a boost pipe will upset the ECU, as it'll register a mismatch between the air flow signal at the MAF, and the and pressure at the MAP sensor. This will put the MIL on, but you'll know the reason, so code can be ignored and cleared later.
However if it proves the turbo is at fault, then a code is a small inconvenience. ;)
 
That's those eliminated then.

Ok. Next test is to remove the elbow boost pipe from the EGR and run the engine again. This test allow you to check for excessive oil in the boost pipes, which can only come from the turbo seals, or the crank case vent system.
Now removing a boost pipe will upset the ECU, as it'll register a mismatch between the air flow signal at the MAF, and the and pressure at the MAP sensor. This will put the MIL on, but you'll know the reason, so code can be ignored and cleared later.
However if it proves the turbo is at fault, then a code is a small inconvenience. ;)
Ok nodge thanks will try that and let you now What the outcome Was
 
Hi nodge done what you said,Used a box with some kitchen roll in there to catch anything and there was a slight spit of oil but nothing major,did the same on my momS td4 so I could compare and looks exactly the same,with her motor running ok,regards
 
So that eliminates the turbo and breather system. Unfortunately it points to a faulty injector.
Thanks nodge I suspected turbo or injector/s did a quick live feed on my diag and one injector has a reading of 24.42 on the compensation on Tick over where as the others flux of 1.2 to 8.81,your help and info is very much appreciated mate,thanks
 
Hi nodge was wondering if you could answer something for me,I’ve had my freelander taken to a independent LANDROVER garage,his checked it over and cannot find why the smoke,as he says it’s running well with no misfire,they say they’re going to take the injectors out to have them tested which I’ve said ok to due to what we had previously spoke about no oil coming from the pipes and they’ve said the turbo is ok,but the question is would a faulty fuel pressure sensor cause the smoking issue as it’s definitely not burning oil,thanks for your time,regards Karl
 
I'd have done a simple leak (spill) off test, which should point out which injector is giving trouble.

The rail sensor can cause odd faults.
 
When EGR valve failed on my van 2.0 hdi lots of grey smoke, would tick over all day normal but could not pull away, EGR valve had broken in side and no fault where coming up, , blanked it off and work as normal not saying it is this, but could be something to look at,
 
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