Shock absorber removal HELP!!!!!

Hi everyone hoping someone will be able to give me a few tips on this one.

I have a 1996 P38 and the rear shock on the drivers side has a knackered top bush so got the replacements (will change both as a pair) started on the drivers side and the top mounting bolt just will not budge.

Have so far tried a breaker bar, and impact gun, socket set, a full tin of WD40 and far too much swearing but have still not been able to get the bloody bolt to turn.

As its the drivers side (next to the fuel tank) really dont want to try heating it etc. Would be really grateful if anyone has any tips on where and how to drill the bolt out or if there is an easier way to remove it

Thanks in advance

Gareth

You've pretty much tried what I would have....

Next up are destructive methods like an angle grinder, (but not near the fuel tank), a hack saw, or a Nut Splitter....

Good Luck

Time to get the drill out, just not enough room it there to play with the bigger cutting toys!!!!!!

Actually have started to thunk about this properly, if I drill the head of the bolt off the the remainder will be still in the carrier running through the shock. Has anyone had this problem before and if so how did they cure it??

Hi,

I am doing exactly the same thing right now, stuck at same place?? Anybody please?????


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.342566,-0.018287

jamesblake im over in chatham but still bloody stuck have you managed to get any further

Nope, doing bags at same time so moved onto next one....but just split pipe! Not having a good day!


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.342214,-0.017143

Jamesblake I have finally done it, but was a bit of a faf managed to get 2 extension bars on an 18 mm socket and a breaker bar on the end. Had to use massive amounts of wd40 and used a small piece of wood wedged between the ext bar and the chassis arm to hold the ar straight and then get it going slightly. Once going I moved it back and forth both ways until there was a definite turn and away it goes. Patience and wd40 are the key for this one

WD40 is only mediocre as a penetrating oil. There are dedicated release sprays which chemically freeze the rusted nut, products by Wurth and Rostoff which are much more effective for the job. Even good old fashioned 3 in 1 oil is better than WD40

If you find things siezed that badly, a proper penetrating spray like Rocol will help you out a lot more than WD40

When I'm planning to do anything like that which doesn't look like it's been touched for a few years, I tend to give it a spray a couple of times during the week, then attempt to shift it at the weekend.

I had the same last winter on my classic, bush was shot, shock absorber was stuck on th bush on the steel bush liner to the bracket. Had to resort to the old grinder to cut through it. Careful though the abs wires were just behind there!

take your time and do in well ventilated area and make sure no petrol leaks - I had to do mine outside in -10 degc though last winter as it would not go in the garage - it took half an hour.

Mark

SpudH said:

WD40 is only mediocre as a penetrating oil. There are dedicated release sprays which chemically freeze the rusted nut, products by Wurth and Rostoff which are much more effective for the job. Even good old fashioned 3 in 1 oil is better than WD40

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Beat me to it, just about to post the same thing.

SpudH said:

WD40 is only mediocre as a penetrating oil. There are dedicated release sprays which chemically freeze the rusted nut, products by Wurth and Rostoff which are much more effective for the job. Even good old fashioned 3 in 1 oil is better than WD40

Click to expand...

Think that is highly likely to be, because it isn't penitrating oil. It's a water dispersant.

Good old Plus Gas or the latest "All Singin & dancin freeze release fluid in an aerosol can". Some years ago, a Rep gave me a can of graphited penetrating fluid to try, it was the best thing invented since the wheel, I am down to my last tea spoon full unfortunately.

If you've got a Toolstation near you they sell rost löser penetrating oil with molybdenum disulphide which dissolves rust helping the fluid get to where it should go. £3 - bargain!

wammers said:

Think that is highly likely to be, because it isn't penitrating oil. It's a water dispersant.

Click to expand...

The clue is in the name

Endeleus said:

The clue is in the name

Click to expand...

Lol!!

Right, I managed it with good old brut force! And a mate! Only had WD40 to hand, dunno if it helped but worth a spray!!

And thanks to another mate from a coach company, got a length of air hose and a coupler! Job done! And it wasn't on its ass this morning after parking up Saturday evening! Much better being able to turn the key and drive rather than waiting a month for the air to build up!!

4 bags changed - Thanks again to datateks guide!!
2 rear shocks changed

2 front shocks still to do (any tips)

Next is brake discs and pads!


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.400947,-0.241624

Duck Oil by Swarfega is good stuff, so is paraffin and old engine oil. Coka Cola is a pretty good releasing agent, especially for seized pistons, wouldn't drink it though