Series swb rear tub

Anaconda said:

Sure YRM will have them listed on their site.

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Thank you much appreciated

Anaconda said:

Sure YRM will have them listed on their site.

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Afternoon sir, I have got the 3 top hats and the cross member supports to put on the rear tub floor, do I put the top hats onto the floor first before I put floor back onto the tub? I have got the countersunk rivets from YRM. I just got to get the nuts and bolts for the cross members. I’m also hoping to order the new chassis in next month or two. I only realised I need to get an engine hoist lol don’t the money keep going up lol. Really appreciate all your help I would be totally lost without Landyzone!!

Nice tutorial here from yrm

I bonded mine originally to a new floor while off the vehicle , gives you better access to both sides

I saw a tub floor on Ebay with the top hats already welded to it. Will try and find it.

Anaconda said:

I saw a tub floor on Ebay with the top hats already welded to it. Will try and find it.

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I have tried finding the floor you said about but no joy. Apologies first time I have had time to answer you.

Trumar said:

I have tried finding the floor you said about but no joy. Apologies first time I have had time to answer you.

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I had forgotten!

spec 5251 is the birmabright equivalent
you might have a local supplier who can cut it but heres an online one who cut it to your requirements

steve2286w said:

Nice tutorial here from yrm

Land Rover Defender 90 & Series SWB Rear Tub Floor Assembly - YRM Metal Solutions

Parts used 3no. 061 Land Rover Defender 90/110/130 & Series SWB/LWB Underfloor Support Strutt 3no. 087 Land Rover Defender 90/Series SWB Rear Floor Support Top Hat 1no. 091 Land Rover Defender & Series 2 & 3 Rear Door Thresh 1no. 092 Land Rover Defender & Series 2 & 3 Rear Door Rubber Seal 1no...

yrmit.co.uk

I bonded mine originally to a new floor while off the vehicle , gives you better access to both sides

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Nice one for this. I wish I had the room to work on my truck but I have only a single garage. I have seen videos of rear tub removal but not many show replacing the floor.

not sure if i put a thread on here when i did mine in 2007
but the first think i looked for was the edge that the rectangular floor sits on underneath, and that was rotted away in a few places so i took the decision to buy an oversize piece of ally and fold up the sides 30mm.

the sheet was about £40 and i paid local firm about £20 to do the folds.
removing the flood is just grinding/drilling out rivets from inside tub , cant see a old pic of what it was like but the steel crossmembers caused electrolytic corrosion touching the ally which made a few big holes
i measured the old one accurately and made a cad plan

originally stuck the top hats on with structural araldite this lasted about 10years before i redid it with riveting

the little U slots near door was drilled then hacksawed out and filed neat and sealed with some car body sealer

Anaconda said:

I had forgotten!

Back / Rear Body Tub Floor panel 330267 for Land Rover Series 2 2a 3 SWB 88 | eBay

Rear Body Tub Floor 330267 for. Replaces LR part no. 330267. Land Rover Series 2 2a 3 SWB 88. '5083' is a very good marine-grade high strength aluminium alloy, it is very similar to the original Land Rover 'Birmabright' material, it is also much harder & more scratch resistant than the commonly...

www.ebay.co.uk

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I’m not sure if the floor is original as I have taken all 3 top hats off and they have all been riveted on, I thought that was the way to go. I haven’t got the knowledge to weld them.

steve2286w said:

the little U slots near door was drilled then hacksawed out and filed neat and sealed with some car body sealer



View attachment 315328

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You done a very nice job that looks so neat underneath the floor. The 3 cross members are they bolted onto the chassis or onto the edge of the tub? I haven’t got any problems with the lip around my tub. What are the U slots for? Where them U slots are I have got the 2 triangle shaped seat belts anchors one was almost rotted away trying to get a single one took me a long time to find. Yeah that link to yrm you sent me tells that i should wrap the ends of the hats and cross in electrical tape! I have coated mine in black under seal was hoping that is just as good or do you think not?

Anaconda said:

I had forgotten!

Back / Rear Body Tub Floor panel 330267 for Land Rover Series 2 2a 3 SWB 88 | eBay

Rear Body Tub Floor 330267 for. Replaces LR part no. 330267. Land Rover Series 2 2a 3 SWB 88. '5083' is a very good marine-grade high strength aluminium alloy, it is very similar to the original Land Rover 'Birmabright' material, it is also much harder & more scratch resistant than the commonly...

www.ebay.co.uk

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Haha no worries. Wish I had seen this last year before I purchased the top hats would definitely got this floor. Appreciate you sending this to me.

Trumar said:

You done a very nice job that looks so neat underneath the floor. The 3 cross members are they bolted onto the chassis or onto the edge of the tub? I haven’t got any problems with the lip around my tub. What are the U slots for? Where them U slots are I have got the 2 triangle shaped seat belts anchors one was almost rotted away trying to get a single one took me a long time to find. Yeah that link to yrm you sent me tells that i should wrap the ends of the hats and cross in electrical tape! I have coated mine in black under seal was hoping that is just as good or do you think not?

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On my second go I riveted the cross members to floor and they sit on the chassis top on rubber cushions.
The U slots are to fix the door threshold , 2 pieces one shown in pic the other piece I need to change , prob go to yrm for that
You don’t need to insulate top hats from floor as both ally but insulate the steel cross members from top hats , paint / under seal/ tape anything robust enough to last years should do
The cross members have holes where you can drill through into floor from below then rivet