hi, what is the process for taking out the injectors in a series 3 2.25 diesel. I have taken out similar cav injectors in a tractor before, but they had the nozzle on the end of the injector. and I think i'm right I saying that the Land Rover injectors have a hotspot in the cylinder head and I am worried that I could damage it. do I just undo the hoses and 2 bolts and pull up? thanks
series 3 injectors
- Thread starter woo0003
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
- Posts
- 26,548
- Location
- Manchester
Yep. They can be a sod to pull out but every time you remove them you need to replace the set of crush washers. The hot spot won’t be damaged with normal servicing.
do the crush washers have to be replaced every time. or can you put it back together and run it until new ones arrive? thanks
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
- Posts
- 26,548
- Location
- Manchester
You’ll always get away with it but the bottom steel one with the ridge will let all the crud past it fowling the injector head. They should be replaced as a set. The hardest part is making sure the old steel one is out of the hole and you don’t stack the new ones on top.
I use an artists paintbrush handle of all things, sliding the new washer on, holding it with my thumb then dipping the handle down the hole before allowing the washer to drop in. It keeps it the right way up and stops it jamming half way down. You can use a screwdriver but I don’t like prodding anything steel down towards the hot spot.
Last edited:
thanks, I have taken out the injectors, however they only seem to have a steel washer in them. diagrams show a steel washer against the head followed by a copper washer against the injector. is this right? If there are supposed to be copper washers, this would mean that my injectors have been sitting too far down into the head. would this cause damage? I should clarify that this is a 3 bearing block. and original head
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
- Posts
- 26,548
- Location
- Manchester
The copper washers control how much the steel ones get crushed. They need both and they need to be new.
It won’t cause damage. The hot spots are half an inch or so away from the end of the injectors.
Just clean up the washer seats in the head as best you can with wire brushes or a scotch pad on a stick. I have always smeared a little copper grease on the injectors when refitting as I don’t fancy them seizing up in there.
Have you pop tested the injectors before refitting? It’s worth the effort as you’ll know what pressure they go off at and what the spray pattern is doing.
Not sure where you are but I picked a tester up off eBay for very little and although rarely used it was a must for setting up the system and very easy.
what would poor pressure do too the injectors? 3 of them were spraying in a split pattern so I have put that down to crap in the nozzles. I have given them all new nozzles. would poor pop pressure cause a split spray pattern? I am not that keen to buy a machine because I will never do any work with them again. what kind of places will have a machine to test them for me. thanksThe copper washers control how much the steel ones get crushed. They need both and they need to be new.
It won’t cause damage. The hot spots are half an inch or so away from the end of the injectors.
Just clean up the washer seats in the head as best you can with wire brushes or a scotch pad on a stick. I have always smeared a little copper grease on the injectors when refitting as I don’t fancy them seizing up in there.
Have you pop tested the injectors before refitting? It’s worth the effort as you’ll know what pressure they go off at and what the spray pattern is doing.
Not sure where you are but I picked a tester up off eBay for very little and although rarely used it was a must for setting up the system and very easy.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
- Posts
- 26,548
- Location
- Manchester
It’s not poor pressure. It’s the wrong pressure that causes issues. The large spring cover is rotated to tension the spring so at the correct pressure the fuel is delivered (at the correct time) at the correct volume and in a good spray pattern. By pumping the pop tester up and watching the pressure gauge you set the spring to the specified release pressure. Most garages will have one gathering dust for older cars. If you are near Madchester you could use mine. It only takes minutes to set one and if fired into a cut down water bottle you can view the spray as you go.
It’s a small test but kind of an essential one if your seeking that elusive sweet spot on the series Diesel engine. It’s worth seeking anorl. I have no issues with mine and kind of wonder why they get such a bad press against the petrol version. I conclude that most owners can’t set one up or can’t be bothered.
