Series 2a Clutch Release

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

MFC

Active Member
Posts
161
Hi All,

Nearing the end of my 2a Part restore (mainly engine, gearbox, transfer and overdrive rebuilds plus chassis work) and dropped the engine into the already fitted gearbox (needed to be done first as moved Landy and needed handbrake). Engine mated ok although took a bit of effort and today looked to connect up clutch release mechanism and slave cylinder etc.
Problem is that the release shaft from the mech seems to be in the wrong position and if connected as it is the clutch slave is miles off so the shaft is wrong I guess (maybe 45-60 degrees) but why???
Thoughts
  • Shaft wrongly assembled
  • Clutch plate wrong way round
  • Some other school boy error
Any help on this greatly appreciated hope engine wont have to come out again!!!!
Cheers 20210524_143403.jpg
 
I see the link tube in your pic but nothing else. When the slave bracket is fixed to the bell housing bolts the slave pushrod that operates the arm that turns the rod into the link tube needs to be pushed in
 
I see the link tube in your pic but nothing else. When the slave bracket is fixed to the bell housing bolts the slave pushrod that operates the arm that turns the rod into the link tube needs to be pushed in
Thanks for that but the pushrod is far too low to connect to the slave cylinder hence the problem. The pic I posted is trying to show the location of the holes ie are they in the correct position???
 
Iirc there is a epecific point that the splins need to be fitted?
Sure it is in the manual.
 
Thanks, I am struggling with manual, haynes doesn't really help on this

Looking at pic the hole the pin goes through, in the manual it look like the pin should be in line with the vehicle ie horizontal.
Crap pics as light rubbish

Screen Shot 2021-05-24 at 21.07.30.png
Screen Shot 2021-05-24 at 21.07.39.png
Screen Shot 2021-05-24 at 21.07.47.png
 
Looking at pic the hole the pin goes through, in the manual it look like the pin should be in line with the vehicle ie horizontal.
Crap pics as light rubbish

View attachment 239086 View attachment 239087 View attachment 239088
Thanks for that, on first look, as you say, it looks like the shaft is in the wrong position. I put that together over a year ago and cannot remember what process was used. Looks like it could be a set up issue. Will take engine out and see if it is set up as per you pics. really helpful thanks
 
Thanks for that, on first look, as you say, it looks like the shaft is in the wrong position. I put that together over a year ago and cannot remember what process was used. Looks like it could be a set up issue. Will take engine out and see if it is set up as per you pics. really helpful thanks


Ps Haynes manuals stopped being useful about 20 odd years ago.
 
Ps Haynes manuals stopped being useful about 20 odd years ago.
Took the engine our today and yes I had set it wrong so thanks for the info.Set up as per book and engine back it (after checking funtioned ok) now I cant get enough movement on the mech to disengage the clutch. It looks like the push rod is now too short but maybe I was a spline off but i didn't think so. Anyone had problems with push rod too short???
 
Took the engine our today and yes I had set it wrong so thanks for the info.Set up as per book and engine back it (after checking funtioned ok) now I cant get enough movement on the mech to disengage the clutch. It looks like the push rod is now too short but maybe I was a spline off but i didn't think so. Anyone had problems with push rod too short???


Again Iirc the push rod is quite long and has an extra lock nut on it for some reason, some had spacers between slave and bracket, some of the brackets are different and so on!
 
My spare pushrod is 125mm end of rod to centre of clevis pin.
Think the one on my actual car has had an extra bit of pushrod welded on as I recall it being really long?
 
My spare pushrod is 125mm end of rod to centre of clevis pin.
Think the one on my actual car has had an extra bit of pushrod welded on as I recall it being really long?
Trying no to take the engine out again as done it twice today!!! My push rod is 102mm or so need extra 25mm or so
 
Anyway seem to finally have a clutch of sorts. So if I follow the manual as per above I end up with too little active travel on the push rod to operate the clutch so you need either a longer push rod or as I did move the clutch shaft passed where the book says on a couple of splines. Problem with this means I have now taken the engine in and out 3 times in a day twice alone on uneven surface so decided it is now beer time. Tomorrow will look at the mounts on Gearbox and Engine and try and get the manifolds on and maybe try a start, we'll see. Thanks for all the input but have a think if you are setting up a 2a clutch and what travel you need.
 
Back
Top