Right, OK....So that is how it is going to be is it you stubborn cow??

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As yet not 100% sure....

Probably gonna be a mash up of Heat Sheild material, old PC cooling fans, a piped take off from the A/C system, a small Cyrogenic Liquid Nitrogen plant and a lot of finger crossing! :D

I presume you'd use the fans just to keep the air moving around it as venting the case will just introduce moisture. PC fans are usful for automotive use - especially cooling crappy Honda motorcycle rectifiers.
 
UPDATE:

Received New in Box ABS ECU from the bay of E and as can be seen it is as described - Brand New....

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It even still had the Valve Block Bungs and (admittedly) only 4 of the 6 mounting bolts!

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Dead simple to do....

Remove the connector and unscrew the 6x T20 Torx Bolts....support unit on removal of last bolt to prevent damage to ECU solenoids (if refitting) or the Valve Block Stems....

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Getting to the two closest to the suspension turret at the bottom was a bit of a faff as I have my LPG valve and vapouriser there, so access was limited!

Carefull pull the ECU unit directly towards the front of the car until clear of the Valve Stems

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Compare shot of the New (L/H) and Old (R/H)

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In true Haynes manual fashion, refit is the reverse.....CAREFULLY place the new unit over the Valve Stems be cautious not to damage the solenoids on the back of the ECU and bolt in place, nip them up to hold the unit, then do up in a crossways fashion to avoid over stressing the unit!

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Replace the ECU Connection

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Now here comes the bit I didn't bet on.....as the unit is Brand New it doesn't know which car it is attached too - a Diesel or a Petrol...and needs the ECU to be coded to the car....

A phone call to a Local Dealer reveals they are booked solid for the next 11 days...another Local Dealer is solid til next Thursday (Friday today)....hmmm but they do point me in the direction of a local Indy (of whom I never knew existed)....Rangers of Guildford

High Tail it over there, and have a chat with one of the nicest people I have ever met!

He says he is busy, but if I am willing to wait a while, he'll finish the one he is on, quickly do a check on another, then the T4 would be free for mine for half an hour or so over lunch before the next car is due on!

I tell him I am more than happy wait till the end of the day if I have too (5.5 hours away)and I will sit quietly in the corner till I am called!

10 minutes later he pops out with a mug coffee for me - wow....don't get that at LR, only those poncy machine crap!

20 minutes later, he sticks his head round the door asking me to drive the car into the workshop....

Still with coffee in hand, I drive into the workshop, and he wheels the T4 over....plugs it in, and we get chatting about Range Rovers and Land Rovers in general, he shows me the T4 and its functions, goes through the ECU Renew procedure, Clears down faults stored, shows me some of the more advanced functions....great piece of kit!

Following on from the ECU coding process, we tour his workshop and talk about the vehicles he has there and what they are in for, we talk about the P38's and their issues, the L322 and their issues etc....a really really nice bloke and the other two guys he has there are top chaps with a great sense of humour too!

I cross his palm with more silver than he asked for, as he not only slotted me in over lunch, he also offered me a coffee without asking....

For reference:

Rangers of Guildford
8 Westfield Road
Slyfield Green
Guildford
Surrey GU1 1RR

I won't post their Number as sometimes forums can be trolled by bots picking up numbers and register them with 'iffy' marketing agents who endlessly cold call....if you need the number 118 them or Gooooooooooogle.....

I never knew they existed, but I can guarantee you, I will don there door and cross their palms from now on, a great bunch of blokes!

I will lag the coolant pipes to prevent some heat from getting to close to the new unit, and maybe look at some heat shilding - the guy at Rangers indicated some Jag Powersteering pipe Asbestos covering and maybe even a Plumbers Soldering Heat Pad as good items to pursue.....

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As yet, there has been no recurrence of the fault, but it is early days and haven't done that much distance yet, so time will tell....fingers crossed....and I will update with the results of the Heat Proofing and if the fault has been cured in due course!
 
Hi there @Saint.V8 - I have a similar issue - the DSC light is on, HDC is inactive as is air suspension - although when tested ABS works.... Has this replacement cured the problem?
 
Hi there @Saint.V8 - I have a similar issue - the DSC light is on, HDC is inactive as is air suspension - although when tested ABS works.... Has this replacement cured the problem?
Hi Yep, the replacement ABS ECU cured the fault - they tend to breakdown internally due to heat damage (google it - it is very common on the Bimmers too)....

I would suggest you get it on diagnostics first and see what faults are stored in the ABS ECU and the EAS ECU before shelling out on a replacement ECU.

I also did a replacement of the short ABS harness to as they can suffer from water ingress corroding the connections - check your ABS ECU connector for signs of bluey/green corrosion also!
 
Great thank you @Saint.V8 - I can't get any codes from it as the reader won't communicate with it.
The top of that connector from harness to ECU is also missing so no doubt dust and crud and water has got into the top of the plug.

Do you know if you can straight swap a BMW Bosch one in?
 
I found one from a breaker and fitted it, my code reader can communicate with it unlike the last one (dead according to the diagnostic people) BUT there are still warning lights etc on. @Saint.V8 was that the case for you before Rangers coded it for you?
 
For some reason we can't talk to the ABS module because of a steering angle sensor fault - we can rest the ABS codes but not link up to code it

Anyone had an issue with the steering angle sensor like this???
 
I have fitted a new SAS. With my diagnostic tool there is a degree reading when I turn the wheel left. then when I get to centre and turn right I get some weird readings. I think there is a CAN BUS fault in the line - any tips anyone??
 
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