Removing Carpets... What to paint floor with?

I'm planning on removing all the carpets from my Disco, since it is only my off-road toy (with occasional road use). I need to do this anyway to thoroughly check the condition of the floor and see where it may need welding... I want to leave the carpets out, since it's inevitable at some stage I'm going to get water / mud inside it! I've got a full set of fitted rubber mats for grip / comfort, etc.

What is the best stuff to paint / coat the floor with?

Also... Any general hints / tips for removing the carpets? I couldn't find anything in RAVE about it...

as for hints and tips removing carpets, i have found a good stanley knife is about all you will need unless you are going to start removing centre console and so on.

As for what paint then i am watching this thread as i need to do mine inside too, i was thinking of some of that rubberized roof paint, but i dont know how hard wearing it is, so i am leaning towards a thick few coats of something enamal based or very hard wearing, maybe a floor paint on top of some hammerite or similar.

Hammerite, its the best VFM paint really, its hard wearing and waterproof.

Little tip, cut the carpets into footwell sections so that you can refit them, I have done this to mine, you can see the edges e.t.c. but it cuts out alot of noise and gives a nicer feel, also it means when its full of mud you can take the carpet sections out and all the mud comes out with it at the same time...

Keep meaning to do mine too, just can't find any tuits .. I have some paint at school, rubberised for grip (and works well on icy wooden ramps!) but costs about £80 for 4 litres!

Protecta-kote is an advanced Polyurethane anti-slip paint that lasts, anti-slip UK Specialist, anti slip coatings

School probably won't mind me using some ...

If you can find some paint like the old hammerite with rust stabiliser in , thats the boy . Otherwise zinc primers are good followed by hammertype enamels . If you can stabilise rust first with zinc or whatever (self etch?) then sprayed on undershutz is good but the overspray is a nightmare so mask up well . I tend to use a sikaflex type PU sealant around all seams and joins and use an old brush and a plastic spatula to smooth it down before painting .

I suppose for an offroader then you would want maximum protection with cleanability cost aside ...hmmm , zinc primer and seam seal , then hammertype (this can be sprayed if thinned with ordinary thinners) then a good sprayed undershutz .The hammerite/waxoxl one is good , the one they sell as anti stone chip , as it dries but stays flexible . Then a couple of topcoats of sprayed smoothtype or one rollered for easy wash and wipe-abilty .

An old boatbuilding method for antislip paint was to varnish or topcoat then when tacky sprinkle with fine clean sand through a sieve . However , if you are using mats I would have thought easy cleaning was more the issue and a textured surface will hold the ****e in .

Don't want the finish too smooth as that would just help the mats to slide around. Thinking about it, the stuff they use in the states to spray-line their truck beds would be ideal... Not sure if you can get it over here though...

On another note... Anybody replaced their door seals? Easy / hard, cheap / expensive? And is there a source for them other than main $tealers? My front ones are pretty shot at the bottom, which will pretty much guarantee water ingress if I go wading...

Clarky130 said:

Don't want the finish too smooth as that would just help the mats to slide around. Thinking about it, the stuff they use in the states to spray-line their truck beds would be ideal... Not sure if you can get it over here though...

On another note... Anybody replaced their door seals? Easy / hard, cheap / expensive? And is there a source for them other than main $tealers? My front ones are pretty shot at the bottom, which will pretty much guarantee water ingress if I go wading...

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You can get aftermarket seals, see the usaul suppliers, one thing that may be worth doing though is using campervan elevating roof seals, these are more heavy duty and will provide a better seal, maybe do the lower sections with these and use what you have around the upper trim sections, a bit of tiger seal would do the job at holding it into place...

Paul D said:

Keep meaning to do mine too, just can't find any tuits .. I have some paint at school, rubberised for grip (and works well on icy wooden ramps!) but costs about £80 for 4 litres!

Protecta-kote is an advanced Polyurethane anti-slip paint that lasts, anti-slip UK Specialist, anti slip coatings

School probably won't mind me using some ...

Click to expand...

I used this when I did mine. Its excellent. Waterproof so easy to clean. Apply with a roller and go over it a couple of times making sure you stir it so the small rubber flecks are evenly distributed when applying. Dries in about 2 hours.
Few things with it though. 1) make sure there is no dirt on the floor and its clear of grease (as per their instructions) and 2) it has a really strong smell that lingers for a while! Clears in a few days though... Would recommend this any time.

Hope_5 said:

I used this when I did mine. Its excellent. Waterproof so easy to clean. Apply with a roller and go over it a couple of times making sure you stir it so the small rubber flecks are evenly distributed when applying. Dries in about 2 hours.
Few things with it though. 1) make sure there is no dirt on the floor and its clear of grease (as per their instructions) and 2) it has a really strong smell that lingers for a while! Clears in a few days though... Would recommend this any time.

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Where can I get this stuff, and what's it called?

In the link I posted.

Silk black Hammerite all the way. Door seals from Craddocks/paddocks..easy job, remember to buy the pins.