This is yet another thread on the rear window failing to open.
I'm not after advice but intend giving beginners a simple starting point.
My rear window failed to open or drop thus preventing the rear door opening and the rear wiper operating. There are lots of threads on this subject but most aim at the complex side of things.
The very first thing you should do is re-calibrate the rear window.
This is how (Thanks Optimus):
Optimus Prime
Senior Member
Default Re: Freelander rear door - another thread !!!
the 4 beeps are because the window isn't calibrated. because it isn't calibrated, the rear wash wipe won't work, because the controller can't tell whether the window is open or closed, so assumes open for safety.
Disconnect battery for 10 mins. when you reconnect, glass should lower fully. then drive window closed using dashboard switch (obviously with ignition on). The window should then be calibrated an normal service resumed.
If the window won't lower, might be worth getting an assistant to reconnect the battery while you check the rear glass and regulator. if it seems like it's straining, it's probably causing the problem.
This is hidden in the middle of a long thread and I have done this twice now.
Hopefully this will help when the panic of rear window failure strikes!
I'm not after advice but intend giving beginners a simple starting point.
My rear window failed to open or drop thus preventing the rear door opening and the rear wiper operating. There are lots of threads on this subject but most aim at the complex side of things.
The very first thing you should do is re-calibrate the rear window.
This is how (Thanks Optimus):
Optimus Prime
Senior Member
Default Re: Freelander rear door - another thread !!!
the 4 beeps are because the window isn't calibrated. because it isn't calibrated, the rear wash wipe won't work, because the controller can't tell whether the window is open or closed, so assumes open for safety.
Disconnect battery for 10 mins. when you reconnect, glass should lower fully. then drive window closed using dashboard switch (obviously with ignition on). The window should then be calibrated an normal service resumed.
If the window won't lower, might be worth getting an assistant to reconnect the battery while you check the rear glass and regulator. if it seems like it's straining, it's probably causing the problem.
This is hidden in the middle of a long thread and I have done this twice now.
Hopefully this will help when the panic of rear window failure strikes!
