Rear hydraulic hoses. Help needed

UHi all I am looking to replace the rear hydraulic hoses on my 2001 discotd5 they are connected to a ram/ damper on the osr which is connected to the anti roll bar Any info on where to purchase these would be great. Thanks in advance. Ps what does this do and do I need it. My pipes seem to be leaking and the Landy marks it's territory wherever I park lol

Ohoh....its the ACE ( active cornering enhancement) system mate. Plenty of threads on this if you do a search. You might have to decide whether you want to spend upwards of 600 replacing all the pipes or remove the system which will cost you less. In the meantime, get the fluid topped up. It aint cheap either, cold climate PAS fluid, 20 quid ish per litre.

they are the pipes for double acting ram that controls car roll , you can remove ace system completely and replace with standard anti roll bars or replace the pipes ,seals for pipe in block can be tricky especially if there is some corrosion,

Oh dear. Just my luck. I will look into this thanks for the info chaps

Has anyone just removed the pump and replaced with non ace idler and shorter belt

k341sjr said:

Has anyone just removed the pump and replaced with non ace idler and shorter belt

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yes ,but you still need to replace bars or lock the ones that are fitted,you can make a solid support to replace ram

That sounds like my plan as money is tight ATM. Thanks guys once again.

Rimmerbros sell an ace removal kit. It can still be expensive but includes everything you need. You can cover some of the cost by selling on the parts you remove if thats what you opt for. Sourcing parts separately will be a lot cheaper, getting standard anti roll bars from a breaker for example. If you fit an idler pulley in place of the ace pump I beleive you still use the same belt as this is what a mate of mine has but there may be different arrangements available. If you fit the idler you will get alarms coming up for ACE system fault until you get ecu re-programmed. As said before, if you dont fit idler, make sure you keep fluid reservoir topped up. Othewise.....doomsday scenario which has happened to folks, your pump will seize, serp belt snaps, and if you manage to keep going like this you cook the engine along with any other resultant damage. Sounds a bit OTT I know but point is to keep a good eye on it and id avoid long journeys until you sort it.

or you can think about this, then you dont need idler, you can keep the pump, maybe one day you win at the lottery and decide to re-activate the ACE

1. reroute the pump's outlet in the return to reservoir...you need a short piece of hose on the outlet and an addaptor cos afaik the return pipe is smaller(this way the pump will recirculate the fluid and it will not wear out)

2. cut the pipes near the banjo connection at the two ACE actuators, tap a thread in it and find some grease nipples which you can screw in there then fill the actuators with thin grease equal both sides(those actuators are like a syringe inside)...follow this procedure: with acuator opened both sides, disconnect the actuator's rod and pull it out to the maximum, fit bleed nipple to the upper side and fill all the way with the lower side open utill the rod goes entirely in then open the upper side, fit grease nipple to the lower side leaving the grease out on the other side untill the rod comes out to the middle, fit the grease nipple back and "pump" grease in both sides to refuse ...then it will act like on conventional anti roll bars.(like ACE in "locked bars" condition)

that's all

a friend of mine did it and i was amased that i didnt feel much difference compared to a totally converted one


other tip... if only the pressure pipes to the actuators are leaking, unplug both DCV's asap(the solenoids on top of the valve block) and top up the reservoir...then you'll loose just the fluid from the pipes cos the system will go in locked bars condition and the pump will recirculate the fluid...will keep the pump "alive" untill you decide to bin the ACE or fix it:

'Locked bars' means that all pump flow is directed through the valve block and returns
to the reservoir. Both DCV's close and fluid is trapped in the actuators but can flow from one actuator to the other via
the valve block. .

Click to expand...

k341sjr said:

Has anyone just removed the pump and replaced with non ace idler and shorter belt

Click to expand...

Yes......and I still haven't sourced a cheap enough set of a-roll bars, so the ACE rams are running in "locked condition" not had the time to make the grease mod or bracket mod to make them truly solid

Good idea Sierrafery, like it.
You would still need to have ACE ecu brainwashed to clear alarm tho, if you intend to put the vehicle through an MOT before getting it fully repaired.
You might be able to save some effort on the ram connections if you can match the banjo bolt thread with a suitable regular bolt backed up by a copper or dowty washer to seal it. In the interest of potentially reactivating the system at some point in the future would you not be better to fill ram with ace fluid to prevent any contamination of the ridiculously expensive fluid?
When I started having **** with my ACE I seriously considered doing a complete re-hash of the system using stainless pipes and hydraulic trickery as it would have been much cheaper and probably easier to assemble. Needless to say never got round to it and spent all my beer tokens on pipes and a pump.

Thanks for all advice it is much appreciated. How does yours feel difflock66 on the road without the ace rams plugged in

musky81 said:

Good idea Sierrafery, like it.
You would still need to have ACE ecu brainwashed to clear alarm tho, if you intend to put the vehicle through an MOT before getting it fully repaired.

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i forgot to mention but there is a simple trick to turn off that lamp without tester, here it is http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2812653-post25.html

k341sjr said:

Thanks for all advice it is much appreciated. How does yours feel difflock66 on the road without the ace rams plugged in

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I bought the car in that condition so cannot comment on how it would have felt with ACE operational. On the test drive the ACE warnings flashed up in red at the first bend I came to! I put this down to the coil conversion at the rear, not knowing what I know now via LZ :doh: The garage said they'd sort it in the week before I was due to collect the car. In sorting the problem I'm sure they were the ones who bypassed the ACE - like I said I didn't know what to look for under the bonnet at the time..

However, I have to say that it feels very stable - nowhere near as much body roll as I was expecting - bear in mind also this is my first ever Land Rover of any kind. It also seems to have quite hard springs fitted, certainly harder than a couple of my laning friend's D1s - one of which has no anti roll bars. I've been in that one and there's a lot of roll despite the wheels staying on the tarmac!

So, it's certainly very driveable, both on and off road, although off road is bound to be compromised a little by not having floppy bars .

sierrafery said:

i forgot to mention but there is a simple trick to turn off that lamp without tester, here it is http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2812653-post25.html

Click to expand...

Now that really is ACE.

thanks once again for the advice on this subject it appears to be only the high pressure hose leaking at the back and only a small leak , However i do a few long runs and don't fancy this failing when i am in the middle of nowhere .. which plugs do i need to un-plug to set the bars in locked position and recirculate the fluid? i can cope with body roll but i am still running on air suspension will this un-plugging procedure still do the trick?

k341sjr said:

thanks once again for the advice on this subject it appears to be only the high pressure hose leaking at the back and only a small leak , However i do a few long runs and don't fancy this failing when i am in the middle of nowhere .. which plugs do i need to un-plug to set the bars in locked position and recirculate the fluid? i can cope with body roll but i am still running on air suspension will this un-plugging procedure still do the trick?

Click to expand...

both rear pipes are high pressure ,they operate a double acting ram , you cant lock bars if you have a leak in a ram pipe ,unless you fit arb or support in place of ram or sierraferys idea of grease nipples on ram (same as some crawler track adjusters )

aaarrrrr man thought i was going to get away with that . it has had a compression joint fitted to the rubber hose which i suspect is where the seepage is coming from ,looks like i will start the hunt for some ARB's

unplug the two solenoids from top of the valve block and it will recirculate the fluid... but it will loose the locked bars condition when the fluid is gone from the pipes/actuators... then you have to do what jamesmartin said to make some brackets across the actuators to lock the roll bars or to do the grease nipple thing... thinking twice the bracket variant looks easyer to realise but we didnt have such brilliant ideea at that time

I have been using ATF in my ACE for about 3 yrs now with no problems at all (as it drains over a 2 week period). I have managed to source a stainless steel kit from here and a coil of soft 10mm copper brake line to redo the front end.