Rear door latch replacement

My son has pulled the door whilst locked a number of times now to the point where the latch appears to be broken ...
I've removed the old one but it took me ages to disconnect the small cable from the door handle.... But I can't get the new one back in as I can't get this cable back onto the unit!... nothing broken.. its just the silly clips and working at arms length inside the door...

Is there a trick to doing this?... How does the cable come off the door handle?... may be this would be easier??

Any advise appreciated

Changing the latch is a really easy job, if you take the exterior door handle out with it.

Otherwise your going to be doing keyhole surgery.

Remove the seperate part of the handle, the bit at the back. Then slide the door handle backwards and it will come out. Then just a couple of screws (t20 i think) and a plastic locator and it comes out of the door.

Vissie said:

Changing the latch is a really easy job, if you take the exterior door handle out with it.

Otherwise your going to be doing keyhole surgery.

Remove the seperate part of the handle, the bit at the back. Then slide the door handle backwards and it will come out. Then just a couple of screws (t20 i think) and a plastic locator and it comes out of the door.

Click to expand...

Okay... thats great to know.. I could not work out how to get the handle off... I removed the external rear bit and un-did the small bolt... but nothing wanted to move.... so there are screws inside as well?... this as you say will make life a lot easier LOL... I'll try find the internal screws... it was pitch black as it was 10.30 at night when I finaly gave up... thanks for the info !!!

got a new second hand unit.. and it does the same thing.. only 1/2 works.. low on power when locking / unlocking.. has this failed the same way as my original unit?.. or is there something else going on here I need to know about?...

I actualy stripped the other door and swoped actuators over.. although it didn't work fully (as the wires are wrong) it did appear to have a lot more power to it... and taking the failed unit the that side.. it did the same at 1/2 power... so I'm guessing I have 2 duff units now

So i've now ordered a new, new one... fingers crossed!!

Freelander Beaver said:

got a new second hand unit.. and it does the same thing.. only 1/2 works.. low on power when locking / unlocking.. has this failed the same way as my original unit?.. or is there something else going on here I need to know about?...

I actualy stripped the other door and swoped actuators over.. although it didn't work fully (as the wires are wrong) it did appear to have a lot more power to it... and taking the failed unit the that side.. it did the same at 1/2 power... so I'm guessing I have 2 duff units now

So i've now ordered a new, new one... fingers crossed!!

Click to expand...

if both don't work in the same way then i'd have to question wether the feed to them is duff.

So would I.. thats why I pulled one out the driver side rear door. .that worked at full power but backwards (may be due to the wireing).. and the ones from the LHS only worked at 1/2 power when pluged into the drivers side??... so may be I've a dicky feed for LHS units?.. no idea how this thing is wired?...

Due to the way its wired, if your latch unlocks, but doesnt lock, then the wiring is fine.

The only thing it could be other than the latch (and this is alot less likely), is the cjb.

I think its pins 5 and 7 for normal lock function. You should get a pulsed voltage one way to unlock, then a pulsed voltage the other way to lock. Its just a reverse of polarity along the same motor, although there is 2motors per latch (superlock).

If your getting a decent pulse one way, but a lower voltage pulse the other, it sounds like internal failure of the cjb. It does need checking properly with a multimeter though.



The latches are common as hell to fail though.

twoz the latch.. got a new one and it works fine...
leason here is don't trust E-Bat specials!

thanks for your help