Rear crossmember replacement

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

DiscoPol

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,376
Location
The Land of Po
righto,

yes i have searched, here there and every fecking where,


all i want is a definitive answer on what size of box section to buy for replacement, length i can measure but cross section im confused, i have seen reports of people using 100 x 60, 100 x 40 and even 60 x 30, Im guessing that the 60 x 30 would be a piece meal member cobbled together so thats out the window, i abuse my disco a lot and dont need any more possible failure points.

It isnt about aesthetics though, im happy for it to look industrial and home bodged but i want it strong enough for the job in hand.


the issue for me is that i am planning on doing this on the long weekend we get here at the beginning of may 1-5th but at this time everywhere will be closed and i mean everywhere, so i need to have all the materials in stock before then, i have ordered a new bottle of gas for the mig, bought plenty of discs both cutting and grinding, i already have a big sheet of 1.5mm steel to make up patches a plenty and i am ordering the cill replacement box too but that i have a size for.


so come on has anybody done one and if so what did you use, i dont want to know about a mate that told you he did it with some old tat he had lying about or any other second hand info, i am interested in cast iron first hand experience and tips, please chaps time is marching on and i need to get the stuff in the garage ready for the weldathon.

many thanks,


POL
 
I replaced my cills with 100x60 box and it took me and a mate all easter bank holiday last year.
Be prepared to chop back LOADS as you just seem to get further into the car looking for good steel to weld to.
I used scaffold tubes as tree sliders but wish I attached the cills to the chassis and fitted hi lift jacking points so think on?
Good luck buddy. And I'm interested about the rear cross member as mines rotten and my rear body mounts have been crushed too.

Al.
 
well i took the rear bumper off today to have a measure up and got a bit carried away, should have it in by tomorrow night/sunday at the latest as am working tomorrow morning until 2 pm.
 

Attachments

  • disco arse.jpg
    disco arse.jpg
    120.5 KB · Views: 1,164
Tis a little rotten :p
Those rear body mounts are in good condition.
I have used 120 x 60 x 3mm wall thickness 1400 long then cut the length to fit. Spot weld drills are very usefull. Cut round the body mounts and pillar joints but its almost impossible to remove all the layers of metal (unless its rotted away) here so its tight to fit the box section in but it will go. Weld round the cuts and puddle weld through the floor, about one bucket of seam sealer should be enough, spray on underseal if poss as it will get in where you can't get a paint brush. Its your choice wether to box the ends in to try and keep the muck out, or leave it open so you can hose it through. Hope this helps.
Kev
 
Job Done!


aching and very sore after an intensive couple of days but its in, had to fab something up out of 100x50x3 1.8 mtrs did everything perfectly though, i will stick some pics up later.
 
Glad it's done then ... :)

We were lucky on our last disco, the crossmember was good, but the floor was fecked ...

Both rotted to hell on mine Dippy, but the crossmember was the worst as the whole back end had dropped about 2 inches so the back door wouldnt open and i kept catching my tyres on full articulation, Did the cross member and added a good anchor point for the floor when i get round to it next weekend or soon either way its a whole lot better now and the disco no longer looks like a crouching dog taking a dump:bounce:
 
Back
Top