Range Rover P38 Sluggish / no power

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Excuse me gentlemen, but what does this EGR look like, and what pipe should I unplug and block? Don't want to unplug and block the wrong hose - I understand having one's hoses fiddled with can hurt?? Not that I'd know ;)
I've had 3? Classic 3.5s, and this is my second diesel P38. So not a RR novice.
 
Excuse me gentlemen, but what does this EGR look like, and what pipe should I unplug and block? Don't want to unplug and block the wrong hose - I understand having one's hoses fiddled with can hurt?? Not that I'd know ;)
I've had 3? Classic 3.5s, and this is my second diesel P38. So not a RR novice.

What year is your car?
 
Hi first thing remove your post code from location a ruff area ill do.
Welcome to the forum you have come to the right place for help with a p38
if the motor is very slow they a bit sluggish as standard try pulling the small pipe of the map sensor bolted to the fuel filter and make sure its clear both ends, the other end fits on to a spigot under the inlet manifold check that as well ,drive car with it disconnected if there is no difference and pipe is clear and not split map sensor is shot, try that and report back.
If Wammers gives advice follow it.
 
Hi first thing remove your post code from location a ruff area ill do.
Welcome to the forum you have come to the right place for help with a p38
if the motor is very slow they a bit sluggish as standard try pulling the small pipe of the map sensor bolted to the fuel filter and make sure its clear both ends, the other end fits on to a spigot under the inlet manifold check that as well ,drive car with it disconnected if there is no difference and pipe is clear and not split map sensor is shot, try that and report back.
If Wammers gives advice follow it.

Not being stupid here, but what does a MAP sensor look like? Anyone got a photo with an arrow??
 
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By the fuel filter
 

Then it does have EGR but disconnecting it will do nothing for power. But it will stop build up of crap in the EGR valve itself and the internals of the manifold and inlet tracts. EGR is the valve bolted to the front of the inlet manifold. It will need removing and cleaning out, then leave the rubber vacuum pipe off it and blank the pipe with a suitable screw. Look at MAP sensor and connections for lack of power.
 
Then it does have EGR but disconnecting it will do nothing for power. But it will stop build up of crap in the EGR valve itself and the internals of the manifold and inlet tracts. EGR is the valve bolted to the front of the inlet manifold. It will need removing and cleaning out then leave the rubber vacuum pipe off it and blank the pipe with a suitable screw.

Ah OK, thanks. Problem is, he goes nicely when warmed up, and acceptably when cold, but I find that if a sudden steep slope presents itself, and I haven't given him a run-up, pressing the loud pedal has depressingly, embarassingly little effect :(
 
Ah OK, thanks. Problem is, he goes nicely when warmed up, and acceptably when cold, but I find that if a sudden steep slope presents itself, and I haven't given him a run-up, pressing the loud pedal has depressingly, embarassingly little effect :(

Lift pump may have failed or failing.
 
Hmm, thing is, I used to run a P38 diesel in Europe, and I didn't expect fireworks, but this boy is a degree slower for sure.
So it's flush the intercooler, check for leaks in the hoses, clean out the inlet manifold and EGR valve making sure the EGR valve closes properly, then as stated, block the rubber pipe to the EGR valve when putting it back.
Diagnostics would help checking the function of the MAP sensor and the boost level.
One quick check you can make is to unplug the MAF sensor (in the inlet hose from the air cleaner), a faulty MAF can do funny things. Check the air filter is clean. Check the in tank lift pump is working.
 
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