Series 3 Protecting Unfused Circuits

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imortim1

Member
Posts
48
Location
Baltimore, MD
Good morning all.

So, having introduced Libby on the New members thread, it is time to get down to some work.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hello-from-baltimore-md.335032/

I'm sure this has come up before, but after a search, I didn't really find the answer I needed.

We all know that Land Rover left some circuits hot and unfused, thus potentially being a fire risk (especially as the insulation decays over time). From my reading of the circuit diagram, I believe that the following are unprotected..Dash Panel Inspection sockets, Horn, Anything running through the lighting switch (Dipped main lights, tail lights and front markers lights). For safety, I would like to have these circuits protected (not sure why LR didn't do it originally) so that Libby doesen't let out smoke one day and go up in flames!. So, who has done this ahead of me and how did you do it?

Personally, I would prefer NOT to drill into the bulkhead if possible. An auxiliary fusebox could be possible. But I'm not sure where to mount it or take the power feeds from. Alternatively, I would consider in line fuses in each circuit.

BTW, I have quite a bit of electrical experience, but not in cars. (I've wired / rewired the odd house, mass spectrometer, model railway), so am having to come up to speed with auto conventions.

Suggestions would be welcome and many Thanks,

P
 
imortim1 said:
Good morning all.

So, having introduced Libby on the New members thread, it is time to get down to some work.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hello-from-baltimore-md.335032/

I'm sure this has come up before, but after a search, I didn't really find the answer I needed.

We all know that Land Rover left some circuits hot and unfused, thus potentially being a fire risk (especially as the insulation decays over time). From my reading of the circuit diagram, I believe that the following are unprotected..Dash Panel Inspection sockets, Horn, Anything running through the lighting switch (Dipped main lights, tail lights and front markers lights). For safety, I would like to have these circuits protected (not sure why LR didn't do it originally) so that Libby doesen't let out smoke one day and go up in flames!. So, who has done this ahead of me and how did you do it?

Personally, I would prefer NOT to drill into the bulkhead if possible. An auxiliary fusebox could be possible. But I'm not sure where to mount it or take the power feeds from. Alternatively, I would consider in line fuses in each circuit.

BTW, I have quite a bit of electrical experience, but not in cars. (I've wired / rewired the odd house, mass spectrometer, model railway), so am having to come up to speed with auto conventions.

Suggestions would be welcome and many Thanks,

P
Click to expand...
I just ordered a couple of in-line fuses holders myself, and my plan was to put them behind the dash somewhere, and in line with my windshield washer which I need to re-install. I am replacing the dash inspection sockets, believe it or not.
I live in Virginia, so I ordered these from Radio Shack. I see now that Amazon has these as well.
https://amzn.to/2yoYq23
I'm not sure, how many amps to use for the fuses. Your message is timely for me.
Mike
 
You can get 12v fused relays, these are good for the lights circuits as you put a realy in to ruduce the current though the switch and get a fuse at the same stime. You can put the relays near the headlights but need to add a power supply but you are near the batt so its not a long wire.
Make_&_break_12V_30A_Fuse_1.jpg
 
I think the best option would be to discard the original glass fuses, and cut out the lower dash for a new fusebox in the footwell area, extending the wires to reach. The original fusebox is used as a junction box for most of the unfused circuits, so you should be able to extend those wires as well and route them through proper fuses. A better option for maintenance than inline fuses stuffed behind the dash, and you upgrade to more reliable blade fuses in the process.

Cost: a bit of time, a generic fusebox, some wire, solder and heat-shrink. Simple enough to do. I helped rewire a stage 1 V8 a few months ago so I'll try and dig out the notes I made for that- we made a few other alterations but the main objective was to modernise it with fuses on all circuits.
 
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Thank you all for your suggestions.

ObiWan, where about are you in VA?

Inline fuses behind the dash are a possibility, at least as a new emporary protection. However, FP, i would be interested to see you notes on how you went about fitting the new fuse box (as long as it doesn’t involve cutting the bulkhead).

Many thanks to all for their input.

PM
 
We put the fuses in the engine bay (threading the wires through the bulkhead grommet on the driver's side) which is another option, but I think the neatest way would be to cut out a rectangular section of the lower dash panel (where the speaker goes on a defender) as it keeps everuthing inside the car. From memory, I think we added fuses for the marker lights, headlights (also adding a relay to take the load off the switch) ignition coil, hazard warning lights and heater fan circuit. Trace through the diagram carefully to see where the power for each circuit comes from and we'll figure out the best fusebox design.
 
I have a modern 4 fuse fuse box inside on the dash with the wires run through the existing cable holes. I worked out my own wiring as I wanted to modernise the wiring and add a number of functions as mine is a camper. I split the wiring into 4 goups - always live unfused, always live fused, key switched unfused and key switch fused. Some of the unfused circuits use fused ralays close to the load (ie the headlights and electric fan). I tried to apply some logic so that a single fuse could not disable too many things. The orginal reason for so few fuses was to prevent breakdowns, fuses were seen as a weak link so they used the minimum. Its still true and more fuses = more dirty contacts and unplanned stops. Things like hazard lights need to be always on unfused so you can put them on when everything esle has stopped. Same goes for the engine, you may decside you would rather keep drving with no lights (and a hot elctrical smell...) than stop where you are. Most of a Series is metal so it takes time for hot wiring to set a fire and I have an exstinguisher on the seat back (original fitment). When I got the vehicle it had been fitted with 12 fuses and most nothing worked, now it has 4 and it all works.
 
Many Thanks for all your suggestions. I'm still trying to imagine how the fiusebox would fit into the lower dash, as I can't get out to the vehicle at the moment. Maybe this weekend I can take a look.

Interesting to understand the rationale behind why certain circuits are unfused. But I still think its safer to have everything fused - possible experience of working with HV systems at work, where i want everything protected. I will also be adding a battery cut out at some point, possibly on the battery terminal itself.

Thanks to all for your suggestions and I will update as I proceed.
.
PM
 
Re fusing, I go out on teh offshore rigs inlcuding FPSOs (a ship with a rig on top). The rig systems are mostly protected but the marine fire, steering, propulsion and fire systems are usually "run to destruction". They have manual breakers for protection but you don't want to loose heading in a storm, better let in run and keep your fingers crossed. I think there is a bit of that in vehciles. A freind was nearly killed when a modern car went into "safe mode" in fast motorway lane closure, it was a hire car which he would happily have sacrificed in preference to "safe mode"! Apprearently "safe mode" protects the engine not the driver.
 
Rob,

A lot of that makes sense, particularly in the marine environment. However, in my case, I don't think there is anything as safety critical (It's a series after all) that can't be fused. The horn and the inspection plugs aren't safety critical and if the dipped beams go, I still have the main beams on a fused circuit. And being a diesel, it doesn't have a coil to keep energized to run. And if everything fails, its ususally no problem to pull off. (I always keep a pair of hazard reflectors and lamps in the back in case). I do remember in my yoof getting a SWB 2.25D home with a total electrical failure (in day light) - turned out that the battery ground had come off. No electrics, but got home! (It was but a few miles).

I hear what you are saying, but need to think this through a bit

Thanks for your input.
 
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