p38 suspention help needed

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stu_200sx

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hi all I got a 98 range rover 2.5 iam having some problems with my suspension when I was on a long journey the car decided it would be a good idea to lowered its self to the bump stops which was very uncomfortable to drive !!! So looking in to it I have found that it’s a common fault IV looked in to getting a spring conversion but there silly money what I have not got! So I have managed to re wire the solenoids so I can still use the car as it’s my only one can any one tell me or point me in the direction on a diagram or a drawing of what each solenoid does? I got the suspension to go up and down so its driveable but the back came up more than the front so I rewired it to two switches one controls the front and one the rear which seems to be working fine but if I increase the height of the ride to normal or just over one side seems to go a lot higher than the other? Could anyone help me!!!!!

Thanks
 
Air bags
Left rear pin 11
Right rear pin 28
Left front pin 10
Right front pin 27

in turn you have to link pin 9 to go up and pin 26 to go down

Pin 8 runs compressor

And if you link pin 7 to 18 it gets rid of fault on the dash

Good luck
 
r.rover said:
And if you link pin 7 to 18 it gets rid of fault on the dash
Click to expand...

Isn't that an old wives tale?

stu_200sx: Why don't you just fix the problem? There's plenty, and i mean plenty, of threads on air suspension failures on here.

Personally I have problems with the air compressor, and in my opinion if you have a faulty air compressor you'll get every other fault logged on the ECU also. Get the OBD lead and EAS software, and fix it, you obviously seem willing and capable of having a go.
 
My compressor packed up a few years ago, so I knocked up a MARS system, pressed up the suspension bags via an electric tyre pump, they stayed up for a couple of weeks until I got the bits to re-build the compressor!
Since then I bought a spare comp & valve-block from e-bay & they sit on a shelf in readiness for next time!
I left the MARS system in place should it be required again.
 
I gone straight to the solenoids imp going to buy some tees put the rear on one switch and solenoid and the front on an other I think that that’s the simplest way to do it I have had I fault diagnosed and its come with a different problem each time has anyone got a exploded drawing of the bags and the pipe runs???
Thanks
 
I had a fault with my p38 a few years ago. LR said it would need a new valve set at £1200, yeah right, take the solenoids off the valves, and take the valves apart (very carefully theres a small spring inside) there will most probably be a greasy aluminium dust residue on them, clean it all off with carb cleaner and rebuild. do each in turn then reset system with testbook, problem solved! (not sure if disconnecting the battery will save you the test book thing??) Oh a few weeks later the pump finally packed up which cost £200 so hey it cost £200 to do the lot! Good luck.
 
hi, mine is a range rover 98 s 4.6 vogue se, sometimes it runs great & sometimes it drives me mad lol, the air suspention i mean, sometimes it stays up & opperates normally but sometimes it doesnt, i could get in in the morning sometimes its low sometimes its not, i start it up & can feel it rising & the light stops flashing & away i go, & within a mile the back end is on the bump stops, it will not rise using the dash switch but if i open the door for 5 mins & then close it, up comes the back air springs & away i go, now it doesnt allways have this problem but i think its getting worse, there are no warning lights to be seen when it happens & its so irregular, do you know what to check on to stop this fault of rising then falling to the bump stops after a mile or so & having to have door open to rase the bags again, thank you ; )
 
stu_200sx said:
hi all I got a 98 range rover 2.5 iam having some problems with my suspension when I was on a long journey the car decided it would be a good idea to lowered its self to the bump stops which was very uncomfortable to drive !!! So looking in to it I have found that it’s a common fault IV looked in to getting a spring conversion but there silly money what I have not got! So I have managed to re wire the solenoids so I can still use the car as it’s my only one can any one tell me or point me in the direction on a diagram or a drawing of what each solenoid does? I got the suspension to go up and down so its driveable but the back came up more than the front so I rewired it to two switches one controls the front and one the rear which seems to be working fine but if I increase the height of the ride to normal or just over one side seems to go a lot higher than the other? Could anyone help me!!!!!

Thanks
Click to expand...

DO NOT wire the solenoids direct to 12 volts you will burn them out. Only the diaphragm solenoid, the inlet valve and exhaust valve are ever fully opened, and full voltage is not used to do it, the four corner valves are pulsed. That is why they click. If you hold them open with 12 volts you will burn them out PDQ. They are opened, then over micro seconds a reducing voltage lowers them back onto seat so they don't slam into it destroying the rubber seal. Stop buggering about and get it fixed properly or you're going to end up spending a lot more than a coil convertion.
 
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stu_200sx said:
I gone straight to the solenoids imp going to buy some tees put the rear on one switch and solenoid and the front on an other I think that that’s the simplest way to do it I have had I fault diagnosed and its come with a different problem each time has anyone got a exploded drawing of the bags and the pipe runs???
Thanks
Click to expand...

That is no good, apart from burning out your solenoids you need control over each corner individually. You cannot just put the same pressure in each side and hope it sits straight it won't. There is more pressure side to side front to back depending on load.
 
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This thread baffles me. What is the point of buying the EASunlock software to read faults then juryrigging the solenoids? The software can only read and clear faults it CANNOT repair them. The OP needs to do some work to rectify the faults, not just read and clear them. The path he is taking is going to get him in all kinds of lumber. Better just fit the coils if he has no intention of repairing the EAS properly. Rant over.
 
wammers said:
This thread baffles me. What is the point of buying the EASunlock software to read faults then juryrigging the solenoids? The software can only read and clear faults it CANNOT repair them. The OP needs to do some work to rectify the faults, not just read and clear them. The path he is taking is going to get him in all kinds of lumber. Better just fit the coils if he has no intention of repairing the EAS properly. Rant over.
Click to expand...
This is one of the main reasons I dont try to help much on here anymore,it seems most people want a two minute fix costing nothing.And I dont think many people understand when you do give good info.:(
 
Either repair the EAS properly or convert to springs.
You are going to get into a mess as you clearly do not understand how the system works adequately.:confused:
There experts on here such as Wammers,who can give excellent guidance to restore the EAS to normal operation.No one will want give advice on how to fabricate a cockeyed system that may lead to disaster.:rolleyes:
 
eightinavee said:
This is one of the main reasons I dont try to help much on here anymore,it seems most people want a two minute fix costing nothing.And I dont think many people understand when you do give good info.:(
Click to expand...


I agree there are many who seem to think that all they need to become a good mechanic, is a set of spanners from Halfrauds and an Haynes manual. It is not as easy as that. No wonder there are a lot of buggered up P38s about. :(
 
eightinavee said:
This is one of the main reasons I dont try to help much on here anymore,it seems most people want a two minute fix costing nothing.And I dont think many people understand when you do give good info.:(
Click to expand...


that's a shame. Most of the people on this thread have already given me good advice and I'm very grateful for it. This place is an excellent resource for people owning or thinking of buying a Range Rover.
 
stevieivy said:
hi, mine is a range rover 98 s 4.6 vogue se, sometimes it runs great & sometimes it drives me mad lol, the air suspention i mean, sometimes it stays up & opperates normally but sometimes it doesnt, i could get in in the morning sometimes its low sometimes its not, i start it up & can feel it rising & the light stops flashing & away i go, & within a mile the back end is on the bump stops, it will not rise using the dash switch but if i open the door for 5 mins & then close it, up comes the back air springs & away i go, now it doesnt allways have this problem but i think its getting worse, there are no warning lights to be seen when it happens & its so irregular, do you know what to check on to stop this fault of rising then falling to the bump stops after a mile or so & having to have door open to rase the bags again, thank you ; )
Click to expand...

I would bet that your rear airsprings are leaking, either that of you have an exhaust blow that has partially melted an airline. Fix it or you will be in for a compressor ovehaul/replacement. Airsprings have a design life of 7/8 years 80K miles.
 
JerryXt said:
that's a shame. Most of the people on this thread have already given me good advice and I'm very grateful for it. This place is an excellent resource for people owning or thinking of buying a Range Rover.
Click to expand...

Problem is he is right. No mechanic in their right mind who knows their stuff, is going to advise you on how to destroy the EAS system by doing what you propose. It is a lot easier to repair it than put silly manual switches on it. Many times you give people good advice, and they totally ignore it. It does get very frustrating at times.
 
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