P38 Diesel won't start after flat battery

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39
Location
Exeter
Hello, A friend has a 1997 P38 diesel with a blown head gasket. He left it to do for a few weeks and the battery went flat. Re-charged it but now it won't start. Dashboard is lit up like a bleddy Christmas tree! It cranks but not firing.
I told him he'll need an expert so better ave a glass of scrumpy, tis gonna hurt like. To avoid anybody getting over enthusiastic with what's wrong with it and charging a small fortune, can anybody give me an idea of the step by step logical sequence, a sort of general road map, of elimination to solve the problem, so we'll know if the guy we call knows what he's doing. I'm only used to RRC's and the odd disco 1. This RR is a box of tricks. I can grow potatoes and cook a chicken (a little cider making) but that's about it. Yeah, I'm from Devon, koor thers's a lovely cider farm just up the lane, hansom when yuur a bit head achey like after looking at the P38. Though tis a nice rangey for 20 yurs. hate to see it scapped. Now Burt is a bit fed up like.
Any help would be appreciated, if passing by anytime on the A30 to Cornwall you can stop for a bit of rough, cider that is! Cheers, Paul
 
Hello, Many thanks for your reply.
I've googled this, from what I have read, there's a right way and a wrong way to proceed so looks like a range rover technician maybe required. I will check around locally to see what it might cost. Burt's given up on doing the head gasket, I think, so if I can solve this electrical fault, I might try this P38 for myself. But is this a common problem, every time the battery goes dead, you've got to call out a land rover wizz. Does it mean there is another deeper problem hiding somewhere? Cheers, Paul
 
Hello, Many thanks for your reply.
I've googled this, from what I have read, there's a right way and a wrong way to proceed so looks like a range rover technician maybe required. I will check around locally to see what it might cost. Burt's given up on doing the head gasket, I think, so if I can solve this electrical fault, I might try this P38 for myself. But is this a common problem, every time the battery goes dead, you've got to call out a land rover wizz. Does it mean there is another deeper problem hiding somewhere? Cheers, Paul

Problems normally arise if the battery goes dead with the alarm set. Some times the BECM scrambles the ECM code that is stored in it. If that is the case you will have to get some diag on it that can read the ECM code delete the scrambled code from the BECM and write the correct code to the BECM. A Syncmate will do this or a Nanocom.
 
Ok, very helpful. I'll check this point out with Burt to see if the alarm was set. Really appreciate your help. I'll start foot stamping and press some apples to make some more scrumpy. I'll keep the forum posted.
 
You might get away with entering the EKA code. Mozz is the expert there. Or maybe the key has just lost sync.

After unlocking with the fob is the light still flashing on the dash by the windscreen? If an auto I think there is a flashing red light on the gear selector too?
 
You might get away with entering the EKA code. Mozz is the expert there. Or maybe the key has just lost sync.

After unlocking with the fob is the light still flashing on the dash by the windscreen? If an auto I think there is a flashing red light on the gear selector too?

EKA code will do nothing, if that was the problem the message centre would say "Engine disabled". And it would not crank. If all else is good fuel Etc and it cranks but does not start, odds on it has lost the ECM code. That needs diag to sort out. No amount of fiddling with key fobs and EKA codes will make it start.
 
That was my fear. No-one on the Landyzone map in Devon has anything so clutching at straws hoping the OP didn't mention something important. I think there might be a Nanocom in Cornwall somewhere but it won't be much use if it is in St Austell.
 
Thanks for all your help. Burt sold it 'cause her in doors started waving 'er finger. When she does that even I go home. Anyway, I got a softdash to play with. I thought I might start with the easy things first, steering and suspension. I need to replace some bushes, so thought that an upgrade might be ok. Does anybody have any experience with polyurethane bushes. Just wondering about which kits could improve the quality of the ride and handling without breaking the bank. Same goes for the springs and shocks. Cheers, Paul
 
Thanks for all your help. Burt sold it 'cause her in doors started waving 'er finger. When she does that even I go home. Anyway, I got a softdash to play with. I thought I might start with the easy things first, steering and suspension. I need to replace some bushes, so thought that an upgrade might be ok. Does anybody have any experience with polyurethane bushes. Just wondering about which kits could improve the quality of the ride and handling without breaking the bank. Same goes for the springs and shocks. Cheers, Paul

No poly bush kit will improve handling and ride quality. If you want to do that fit standard metalastic bushes. Standard springs standard shocks.
 
Hi, ok understood. Let's take another tack. To put her back on the road so she appears factory original and could possibly be of some value to my children, I'm just not sure about quality of parts etc., I don't want cheap but above average so that things will last a bit longer. I've bought cheap before for my Ford and they don't fit and had to shell out for more expensive German made parts that do. Not interested in bling, just good sound common sense, only want to spend it once. Yeah, I know, why buy a Range Rover. It's the same as women and cider. You like what you see and get drunk on it. Wake up next day and you're married. I saw the first release on TV when a young lad, 1970 I think, the range rover when up a hill side like a mountain goat. Anyway, any help, guidance to tip toe through the mine field of which way to turn would be appreciated.
For example:
Bushes, there is a Britpart full kit black poly bush, these or standard rubber?
Springs and shocks, many makes. The current ones are old and corroded but still function so the MOT tester said. Remove and spruce up? Or new?
Steering, new ball joints needed. Which make? Should I upgrade the track rod and drag link? Who produces a good quality?
Need a new battery. Price between £65 - £90 Good cold cranking and warranty.
Cheers, Paul
 
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