P38 2.5 DSE No start

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spadgr

spadgr

Active Member
Posts
210
Location
wellington, porirua NZ
Gidday, back again as i have another issue with my not so trusty Rangey.
I lent the Rangey to the missus as her car was in the panel beaters. Murphys law suggests that when you lend things to other people they break down so the phone call from my better half stating that the car won't start was expected. Off i went muttering under my breath thinking it's just some sort of cockpit error to find that it won't start even for me. Had a look this afternoon, but the battery has had most of the life sucked out of it now and it is on charge overnight. So, where to start. How do i know whether it is a fuel problem or if its the immobiliser (EKA code, or whatever it is). The remote key still locks and unlocks the car, so my guess is that it is not the immobiliser (or could i be wrong). I removed the outlet from the fuel filter and cranked over, and no fuel was pumped through , but when i bridged the relay, it pumped fuel. I then swapped the relay for another one and still no fuel when cranking. I have no test light at home, so will check tomorrow to see if the relay is being supplied power at ignition. Any ideas anybody?
 
spadgr said:
Gidday, back again as i have another issue with my not so trusty Rangey.
I lent the Rangey to the missus as her car was in the panel beaters. Murphys law suggests that when you lend things to other people they break down so the phone call from my better half stating that the car won't start was expected. Off i went muttering under my breath thinking it's just some sort of cockpit error to find that it won't start even for me. Had a look this afternoon, but the battery has had most of the life sucked out of it now and it is on charge overnight. So, where to start. How do i know whether it is a fuel problem or if its the immobiliser (EKA code, or whatever it is). The remote key still locks and unlocks the car, so my guess is that it is not the immobiliser (or could i be wrong). I removed the outlet from the fuel filter and cranked over, and no fuel was pumped through , but when i bridged the relay, it pumped fuel. I then swapped the relay for another one and still no fuel when cranking. I have no test light at home, so will check tomorrow to see if the relay is being supplied power at ignition. Any ideas anybody?
Click to expand...

Lift pump on cranking only came in 1999 so you won't get any fuel doing as you describe. On your model lift pump is only on with glow plugs or when engine is running. If EKA is needed you will get a messaged on dash "Engine immobilised enter EKA code or press fob" If engine ECU/ECM has lost sync with BECM you will get no message and you can crank the car until Christmas but it won't start. Because ECM is not switched on. More info when battery charged may help.
 
Cheers Wammers, no fuel from fuel pump when glow plugs activated either. No message on dashboard. Does the loss of sync between ECM and BECM mean that fuel pump (in tank) receives no power? I read an earlier post that says the engine should still start even if the in tank pump is failed. How can i check for loss of sync between the 2 control modules? I do have a BBS Faultmate that i can run tomorrow when i get home from work.
 
spadgr said:
Cheers Wammers, no fuel from fuel pump when glow plugs activated either. No message on dashboard. Does the loss of sync between ECM and BECM mean that fuel pump (in tank) receives no power? I read an earlier post that says the engine should still start even if the in tank pump is failed. How can i check for loss of sync between the 2 control modules? I do have a BBS Faultmate that i can run tomorrow when i get home from work.
Click to expand...

Have a look at fuse 37 and relay 19 first off. Pump should run with glows, feed is from plug 6, it pulls relay 12 via impact fuel cut off switch. Check that also for connector pin corrosion. It is behind trim panel at bottom of R/H A post. Faultmate just reads codes don't think it would sort loss of sync out. You need a Syncmate for that.
 
Im not sure which one it is, i bought it when i bought the rangey and have only ever had to use it to fix suspension issues. From memory though, i think it is the extreme.
 
spadgr said:
Im not sure which one it is, i bought it when i bought the rangey and have only ever had to use it to fix suspension issues. From memory though, i think it is the extreme.
Click to expand...
It should be fairly obvious...

Extreme MSV2
faultmate-msv-2-exreme.jpg


Faultmate Extreme Nano
HW015.jpg


FCR ( Fault Code Reader)
fcr.jpg


:D:D:D:D
 
OK, so i have checked out the glow plug system and i am getting switched power to the glow plug timer, that is suppling switched power to the glow plug relay, but there is no power to the glow plug relay (the heavy current side). If i put a jumper lead across from the battery to the glow plug relay and then switch on the ignition, wait for the glow plug light to go out then the car will start. Where is the 80 amp glow plug fuse please. The highest amp fuse in the fuse box is 60, and they are all good. Where is the high amp side of the glow plug relay supplied from?
Thanks
 
Found the 80 amp fuse and its blown. It seems my glow plugs have been mickey moused around. The actual timer relay is not plugged in and is only there to supply the heavy wires to the relay via the blown fuse. Somebody has rewired the timer relay and fitted a universal glow plug timer with an adjustable setting for the time, It's been working perfectly for the six or seven years i have had it. Looks like i will have to source a new 80 amp fuse before i can relieve my Range Rover withdrawal.
 
I would be checking things very thoroughly before fitting a new fuse - to blow and 80A fuse is one MoFo of a current draw - I'd like to check everything with a fine toothed comb before I fit another fuse else a large fire could ensue.
 
What you described sounds like it was a bodge fixed for the hot start fault. Have fun finding your short. :eek:
 
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