P38A P38 2.5 dse engine noise?

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BDC said:
Hi guys,

I have a question about the EAS system now. I bought 4 new air springs because the front axle had 2 different ones installed the rear springs look worn and show those typical tears where they bent.

I went ahead and replaced the right rear spring because I noticed it dropped the most in this corner. Now I just need to find time and good weather to change out the others. The compressor and valve block have already been rebuilt.

The problem is the cars still sags in the same corner (with fuse removed) so no auto leveling. I looked at it again and I noticed it looses air at the quick connect on top of the spring (used soop water). So I cut off a small piece of the tube and tried to push it in as good as I can but still the same problem.

Can I use another bit of tubing and use a push fit coupler in an effort to cure this? Any suggestion are welcome.


I have some bad news as well (for me at least). When I bought the car it was not running and the EAS did not work either so I could not inspect it very well.

It turns out that behind the plastic sill covering there is a bunch of rust to the point the sills are gone for the most part. the backside of the sills underneath the car showed some rust but not rotten through.

I can kick myself in the head now, going to all that work just to find out it is rotten. It only became apparent when I started to take the wheel arches out.
I think i need a break from the p38 for now , I really hoped to get her on the road again this summer.
Click to expand...
There is a raised collar on the tube that will prevent is going in fully if you cut much off the end. It can also take a fair old push the get the pipe into the second O ring, a little washing up liquid helps. Personally, I would not join the pipe, that's just 2 more potential leaks, it's easy enough to replace the whole length of pipe.
 
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I took another look at it, it was not far enough pushed on so the o-ring could not seal. I bevelled the tube end a bit to allow easier insertion, that worked wonderfully.

I’m still to replace the other bags, I did notice that the rear sags even with the fuse removed to avoid levelling.
The bags at the rear do not empty entirely overnight but the rear end lowers on both sides.

The front is really solid no change in height at all.

I checked for air leakes at the top air connection with soapy water but no air bells visible. I cannot hear a single hiss off air escaping.

I was thinking to check the valve block again. Does anyone have a drawing to identify the components (valves) and to which airbag they belong?

Thanks
 
Datatek said:
There is a raised collar on the tube that will prevent is going in fully if you cut much off the end. It can also take a fair old push the get the pipe into the second O ring, a little washing up liquid helps. Personally, I would not join the pipe, that's just 2 more potential leaks, it's easy enough to replace the whole length of pipe.
Click to expand...
I had some time to go over the eas valve block and everything looks alright now it has been rebuilt.
Still have a leak so I’m guessing a problem with the pipe or the air bag. Since the bag is new I’d opt to replace the pipe. Anybody has a suggestion of which pipe to use and where to get it? I suppose oem is no longer available?

Also if one puts in a new pipe how can you make the bends or you have to use elbow push fittings?
 
BDC said:
I had some time to go over the eas valve block and everything looks alright now it has been rebuilt.
Still have a leak so I’m guessing a problem with the pipe or the air bag. Since the bag is new I’d opt to replace the pipe. Anybody has a suggestion of which pipe to use and where to get it? I suppose oem is no longer available?

Also if one puts in a new pipe how can you make the bends or you have to use elbow push fittings?
Click to expand...
It's not unknown for a new airbag to leak, it's happened to me. Check for leaks where the pipe goes into the bag.
 
I went over the valve block again and used some teflon tape around the compressor fittings and installed another pressure switch. Did some on the bench tests with compressed air to check for leaks. Result is that the EAS is working correctly for the first time since I own the car. Pressure switch closes when the tank is full, The valves for the bags remain closed when they should.
Left it for the night, there is still a little sag on the right hand rear corner but a lot less pronounced then before.
Before all that the entire rear end would sag, so there's progress :vb-banana:

I have new pipes on order, in the mean while if the weather permits I'll check the pipe connection on top of the airbag again this upcoming weekend.

Past weekend I replaced the oil cooling hoses from the automatic gearbox (small leak), at the same time I replaced the oil and filter, changed the oil on the transfer case as well, yet another job I can cross of the (very) long list of to do items.

I've been in touch with a company that can help me with the engine ecu, they have the sockets available to be able to install the END tuning chip and can solder it in place for me.

I've also been in contact with someone to get the sills welded up since that is something i don't have the skill set for. Now concerning welding on the P38, there are a lot of ecu's in the car, what is best practice if you want to start welding on the p38? Disconnect all of them?
 
BDC said:
I went over the valve block again and used some teflon tape around the compressor fittings and installed another pressure switch. Did some on the bench tests with compressed air to check for leaks. Result is that the EAS is working correctly for the first time since I own the car. Pressure switch closes when the tank is full, The valves for the bags remain closed when they should.
Left it for the night, there is still a little sag on the right hand rear corner but a lot less pronounced then before.
Before all that the entire rear end would sag, so there's progress :vb-banana:

I have new pipes on order, in the mean while if the weather permits I'll check the pipe connection on top of the airbag again this upcoming weekend.

Past weekend I replaced the oil cooling hoses from the automatic gearbox (small leak), at the same time I replaced the oil and filter, changed the oil on the transfer case as well, yet another job I can cross of the (very) long list of to do items.

I've been in touch with a company that can help me with the engine ecu, they have the sockets available to be able to install the END tuning chip and can solder it in place for me.

I've also been in contact with someone to get the sills welded up since that is something i don't have the skill set for. Now concerning welding on the P38, there are a lot of ecu's in the car, what is best practice if you want to start welding on the p38? Disconnect all of them?
Click to expand...
Laser welding is the safest as it will not induce current in the cables to and from the ECU's
 
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Hi Guys, yet another question. I replaced the abs accumulator because the traction control light came on whenever I used the brakes. Also the pump would come on intermittently.

I depressurised the pump as per rave and screwed on the new one. After that the pump ran for a bit.

Now I noticed that when the sits for a few hours the pump will run again at startup, it didn’t do that before so I’m wondering if that’s normal?

Any ideas?
 
BDC said:
Hi Guys, yet another question. I replaced the abs accumulator because the traction control light came on whenever I used the brakes. Also the pump would come on intermittently.

I depressurised the pump as per rave and screwed on the new one. After that the pump ran for a bit.

Now I noticed that when the sits for a few hours the pump will run again at startup, it didn’t do that before so I’m wondering if that’s normal?

Any ideas?
Click to expand...
You could do with bleeding the system completely incase of air ingress. It needs to be done according to the rave sequence precisely 👍
 
Last edited:
Now the next problem you are going to have is the brake pipes over the rear axle will be rusty if they have not been replaced
 
BDC said:
Hi Guys, yet another question. I replaced the abs accumulator because the traction control light came on whenever I used the brakes. Also the pump would come on intermittently.

I depressurised the pump as per rave and screwed on the new one. After that the pump ran for a bit.

Now I noticed that when the sits for a few hours the pump will run again at startup, it didn’t do that before so I’m
wondering if that’s normal?



Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Both mine run briefly on start up but they do not get used on a daily basis. Once up to pressure, the pump should run every 3 to 5 brake applications.
 
Checked yesterday how long the pump runs at startup, it’s about 38 seconds from key turnover.
After that it only runs for a short time and after touching the brakes every4 to 5 times.
Planning to do a bleeding hopefully this weekend.

I finally got around installing the END chip, I had the Ecu modified because the original chip was soldered directly on the pcb instead of a socket.

I got to say it makes a huge difference this car is now a real joy to ride😎
 
Hi guys,

Now the engine is running sweet I just need to take care of some other bits and bobs before it goes to the welder.

The eas needs further attention I had some problems with sensor readings and I’m planning to replace all 4 of them and do the calibration from scratch.

Does anybody have a good address to get the height sensors from on the eu mainland?

Cheers
 
BDC said:
Hi guys,

Now the engine is running sweet I just need to take care of some other bits and bobs before it goes to the welder.

The eas needs further attention I had some problems with sensor readings and I’m planning to replace all 4 of them and do the calibration from scratch.

Does anybody have a good address to get the height sensors from on the eu mainland?

Cheers
Click to expand...
I got my last ones from China, they were crap. You could try Landypoint
 
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