opinion on best rear axle 110-td5 p38 salisbury

hi every one
just looking for other opinion on the strength of axles/difs

I run a 200 disco with 10 splines and a 90 with 24 splines and I go through a dif every couple of months
as you can imagine im getin a bit sick of changing them now.....

any way ive got me self a Salisbury from a 110 and was planing to convert it to disk brake and put that in but recently ive had poor feed back about them sometimes bending under extreme use. which is what I intend to do to it
plus there bloody bloody heavy

the other idea I had was to fit a p38 rear axle which is 4pin as standard but was put of by talk of them been week due to the fact they only have one pinion bearing instead of 2 (short nose single bearing)

but I since herd that the new 110s now have similar axles to the p38 (rover short nose single bearing) and are also fitted to the wolf land rovers??
so are they the same as p38 or something completely different???

they still have 2 x brg rr p38 wont fit diff wrong side, iwould have said having built most diffs and axles in lr range that the salisbury was by far the strongest especially with maxi drive half shafts and drive flanges you can get 4 pin diffs for stanard rover diffs all salis axles are 4 pin ,you could get 4 pin diff and have crown wheel pegged i do have 4 pin diff as it happens ,not all p38 diffs are 4 pin and niether diff or carrier will fit yours salis will wear out but not seen many bust quite easy to rebuld

so you meen that the new 2003 onwards 110s have 2 brg?

i was awer of the p38 been the rong side
i intended to eather spin the axle and turn the dif
or modify the p38 diff to fit the rover axle as on ascroft site it states that to get there own 4 pin diff to fit p38 you need a spacer behind the crown wheel so am i corect in thinkin that the only difrance between p38 and ordenary diff is the face that the crown wheel fits is thicker so if you wer to machine the face of a p38 dif it may be posable to fit it in a rover axle???

why dont you get proper 4 pin diff for you axle ,

jamesmartin said:

why dont you get proper 4 pin diff for you axle ,

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if money was no object i wud
but ive got the gear and the skill to make a cheeper option fit if posable

sailbry axle = £100
p38 4 pin = £100-£150
expensive heavy duty 4 pin = £250=£300
standard 10 spline = £25 and 20mins to change

that meens a 4 pin wud have to last 12 times longer than a standerd 2pin just to be the same value

why are you blownig up diffs? should be the question do you spin up the diff centres? driving style can help Sooo much to a point. If you keep doing them in both motors may I suggest that you look at the driver. I have competed in my motor for years never broken Any diffs competing in Trials and of late a few winch comps aswell as plenty of marshalling/heavy recovery lots of motors in comps. I DO now have a salisbury rear as it came up for a £1 for a pair of axles. My front axle is still a 2 pin 4.7 ratio and probably the weakest of them all. Running genuinly 37 inch tyres does me no favors however it comes down to my mechanically sympathetic trials driving style. If you want stamp and go reliability your looking at £1K Plus per axle if your not a rich man like im not drive around your problems or fit a correct 4 pin centre and oin the diff. My 90 will go most places if you get or stuck and end up spinning up diff centres then your ****ing in force 10 gale the art is to not get in that situation in the first place.

shurley if good driving was the anser all the pro's wud save there money insted chuking it into axles

stick volvo C303 axles under it!

I dont think the problem is not caused by spinning the diff
as the plannet gears are just smashing in half
there is no evidence of seizing or bluing the pin which would point to lack of oil due to centrifuge

im braking them getting over rocks wen the rear wheel sudenly loses traction momenteraly and then it sudenly gets a grip on the rock bang goes the diff

G-man said:

stick volvo C303 axles under it!

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wud love to m8 but there just a dear as a arb

rock-sliders said:

wud love to m8 but there just a dear as a arb

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the last set i saw went for £2000 on ebay, then they need converting


if you do serious offroading stick an ARB locker in and be done

but is an arb realy indestuctable??
plus if i de where do i stop
ill need h/d shafts ect wud get pricey

thats the thing if you strengthen one component you will move the 'weak link' the cheapest option is an arb and standard half shafts cause shafts are cheaper and easier to replace than any other component

Just come back from a national time trial the last few sections were more harsh than the first few sections, spinning wheels jumping and landing against the clock. All drivers even the younguns at 15 were driving superbly. I saw 3 vehicles with Std front shafts/diff 10 spline nothing broken lots of V8 abuse. If you want stamp and stop ability then ashcroft is the weay forward but its gonna cost you. I'm not a fan of the ARB's seen too many failures at comps. Enough to put me off anyway and forget how many airlines I have seen ripped off while the landy is in the middle of the mire requiring one of us to winch or tow them out.

Your options are:

Salisbury - Pros Cheap strong and reliable, Cons need a spreader if you ever break one, not a straight swap requires modified propshafts brakes etc can be done easily enough tho.

Anything else will require more money